CA Project Pics

Offsetting was sometimes used in small engines when no valve rotation device was present to achieve rotation.  Offsetting is not supposed to be needed with a valve rotation device.  It certainly should not be so far off that it's barely contacting the valve stem and leaving giant divots because of force being limited to a tiny contact area.

I just posted updates a few days ago.  It's not back together yet but mostly finished the engine rebuild internals.  I'm working on some hydraulic system mods at the moment.  I'm creating a pedestal out of a trailer pintle hitch and a hitch extension to get me the required height above the tires.  I've got the base complete except for painting.  I'll start on the platform for mounting the spools tomorrow when a connector arrives and i can determine the width of the side by side spool sets/valves.  I don't expect any significant progress before the spring.  I hate working in the cold :(

Progress 10/30/2023:  Designing a removable hydraulic console intended to bolt to the left side fender.  The console consists of a pintle hitch, and a hitch extender mounted vertically with a custom tray resting on top of the extension which is removable.  Two single acting valves mount to the side, a 4 spool valve set on the top.  It sticks out over the tractor tire for space reasons.  It may or may not fit exactly where I designed it to sit (may be too close to the seat), but I can move it forward or backward if needed.  The tray itself is designed to slide left or right.  I still have some plumbing work to go for the return.  Perhaps a little goofy, but fun anyway (I'm retired, I got time) :)  It weighs a ton...

The back view showing the mechanism for sliding the tray left or right.

It includes optional hose supports that can be added or removed when the dual acting spool valves on top are used.  

Closeup of a hose support.  Since the dual acting valve hoses will come off straight up, this supports them at about 16 inches (can be lowered) to prevent sharp bends.

The bottom (pintle mount) section will be bolted to the fender wall.  I haven't drilled those holes (in the pintle bracket) yet so I can determine the best position.  I measured it and know very close where the holes will go but I made the bracket a little longer in case I need to adjust it right or left.  The top section is the removable part via the hitch pin.  I'm trying not to physically modify the tractor, just using existing bolt patterns as much as possible.  The threaded rod is designed to allow the tray to slide left or right (it is then tightened in that left or right position).  I was thinking ahead to deconflict it with my idea for a roll bar/canopy mount that mounts to the axle but will rise just outside the fender wall (so the wheels will have to be slightly spun out).  When that roll bar/canopy is installed, the tray will have to be slid right/forward to deconflict (since it sticks out over the tire).  The pintle hitch is mounted to a piece of 4 inch x 4 inch angle iron that I cut out the left and right floor sections.  The right section had to be cut to deconflict with the brake lever.  The left side was only cut for symmetry.  The forward fender bolt is around 4 inches from hole to back of brake lever.  The other fender bolt is 11 inches behind the forward fender bolt.  I have about an inch of play to adjust the position to deconflict with the brake lever and the seat.  

The console is fairly well balanced.  There is little stress on the mount when you operate the spool levers which have quite strong springs.  That was one worry with only having two mounting bolts.  I can add a horizontal support later if needed.

Quite a bit of trouble getting the severely dented gas tank fixed (someone felled a tree on it).  First took it to a large body shop.  They had it for a few weeks and decided they couldn't fix it (welded pins method).  The metal was too thick and the pins detached.  Then took it to a tractor renovation place and left it for 8 months (apparently out in the weather, I had to repeat the derust process).  They assured me repeatedly they'd have it ready but when I finally arrived they had not been able to find anyone to work it.  So I started driving from shop to shop and finally found a semi-retired guy to fix it (for a very reasonable price).  He did a pretty good job given the condition (yes I could have replaced it).  Needless to say, this caused quite a bit of delay/progress hindrance.  It came out looking pretty good.  The paint doesn't look quite as good as I'd like.  Really bad conditions:  1) Indiana is pretty darn wet and humid in May and I just could not get the water down in the line.  2) Bugs galore.  Wet paint seems like a bug magnet.  3) Sandable primer (600 grit) just never got smooth enough.  4) Oil based enamel paint takes weeks to dry and gets lots of dings if you're in a hurry.  Doing it over I'd use a faster drying paint.  The primer I used dries in minutes and is hard as a rock.

There were a few leaks in the top left over from the welded pins which I had to weld up.  Then I used epoxy as the major filler and finished with a skim coat of bondo (no picture, I kept forgetting to take pictures).

Fit check.  I should not have put the strap on yet.  The paint was still too wet although dry to the touch.  The strap goes on over the tin not the tank.  Had to make a small paint repair to the tank but it will be hidden under the tin.  I had used a rubber strip on the strap rather than a nylon strap material (fixed later).  The rubber was really sticky and welded itself to the paint :(  The tank was also internally derusted (6 or 7 times) and POR 15 gas tank sealer applied.  That stuff seems pretty good.  Hard as a rock, coated very well.

I worked on the steering wheel off and on between paint coats and maximized multitasking as much as possible.  The original was in really bad shape with most of the bakelight near each spoke all or nearly all missing.  That was a lot of small batch mixing.  Yes I could have bought 2 of them for the price of the epoxy (not to mention my time).  I could have spent a bit more time glazing.  Epoxy isn't very well suited to that.

Sand blasted and made some minor repairs to the original shutters.  They were in really good shape except for one torn hinge.

Installed.  This pic also shows the aftermarket radiator overflow tube.  The nipple sticks out way too far and the hose gets crushed by the cowling.  I shortened it and routed a smaller diameter tube differently.  I'm not quite happy with it and will probably improve it later.  The original radiator has a deep recess in the top for the tubing.  Again the aftermarket radiator shutter mounting holes didn't line up but was a simple hole size increase to fix adequately.

2000f paint on the new manifold.

Manifold and muffler installed:

Rebuilt original generator with regulator and rebuilt carb installed:

The mounting holes in the aftermarket radiator (made in Turkey) for the cowling didn't match up.  I had to increase the hole sizes for the bottom 2 holes (were 1/4 inch holes) to 3/8 inches and then had to slot the bottom holes because they still would not line up by 3/8 or so.

After reversing the radiator mounting plate to position the "hole reinforcement" towards the engine, the radiator fit properly.  This is after I rewired and installed the lights and battery.  I also had to clean up the threads on the large steering linkage on the lefthand side of the tractor.  I then installed two new castle nuts.

Likewise, the hood was pretty beat up.  I worked for hours trying to get it straight enough to avoid bondo, but failed.  I don't have the nice body metal working tools there that I have at home.  But I was running out of time so I'll consider further improvements in the future.  The hood and radiator cowling were also welded up by a body shop due to various rips and tears around the mounting holes and the oil filler hole.  The headlights were basically decapitated at some point.  One could have been easily renovated but the second one would have taken quite a bit of effort (still doable), but I elected to get new ones.

I was running out of time so I elected to do a good enough for now effort on the tin.  I can easily address that later.  There is more functional work to be done first.

We were able to get the engine to fire and briefly run.  It sounded really good, all 4 cylinders fired.  However, there seems to be a fuel problem.  I suspect my carb rebuild went astray somewhere.  There was one jet I was unable to remove and replace, but it was nice and clean.  Also, the new battery I installed was discharged when I bought it and self discharged overnight (I checked for leakage and didn't measure any).  The behavior is kind of strange with the charger, but it is one of those "automatic" chargers.  I just want a switch to select 6V and an ammeter to tell whether it's sending current in.  Basically, at 100% charge it turns the engine over really well...for 2 revolutions then it can barely turn it to the next compression stroke.  Charge it back up, you get 2 good revolutions then the same behavior.  Put it on a load tester, shows good though.  I don't trust the load tester.  The guy at OReilly told me he's never sold a 6V battery before.  I suspect it was in the back uncharged for years.  After a full charge (100%), if I disconnect the charger, wait 30 seconds and restart the charging, it behaves as if self discharged.  One time the charge indicated it started over at 13%, the next time at 70%.  I don't trust the battery or the charger :(  

I also had an issue with an aftermarket fuel bowl.  It absolutely would not screw into the gas tank.  Any of several 3/8 pipe fittings I had laying around worked fine and easily screwed in.  I ended up having to buy a die and "fix" the threads.  Even then, it wasn't really happy screwing in straight.  But I finally got it to go in properly.  I fear though next time I remove it to clean/replace the screen, I may not be able to get it back in straight.

So, in working on the timing, we found the FIRE mark on the flywheel.  Then we found a CENter mark just after the fire mark...then we found a second CENter mark.  Are there two center marks??

The throw-out hub and bearing were both completely locked up, but they cleaned up nicely.  The bearing was in excellent shape (given that it was probably not in contact with the clutch housing for 40 years).  The adjusting hub/housing looked near new after I cleaned it up.  I did need to clean up the threads to stop some binding, but nothing major.  I think that the last time the clutch was worked on they just bolted the clutch plates together, but not verified...it may just be rusted fast.

I did get the engine running fairly well.  The main issue initially was the throttle control wasn't applying enough force against the wrong carb throttle linkage spring (new one hadn't arrived yet) and it was just idling too slow to continue running.  I also had to fix a weeping leak in the carb float bowl.  The only remaining leak appears to be the oil drain plug.

Also, initially there was no oil pressure.  This caused fear and dread :(, but I was able to prime the pump and got "good" pressure of 10psi at idle and up to 12psi at a slight rev.

I improved the battery cable ground connection.  It appears I only THOUGHT about cleaning the paint off the connection (grounding was through the bolt head, but may as well get full surface contact).  There's not much evidence that this improved the battery performance, but I think after the engine loosens up and I get it timed properly it will be fine.  

I also verified that the new regulator was properly polarized and at the correct voltage before connecting.

Not wanting to fire up the compressor, I elected to use the drudgery method of wire brush and Dremel to clean up the seat spring and shock absorber.  They cleaned up well and I got them primed but not painted.  The shock absorber was still working reasonably well (pretty sure it's the original).  I also removed and cleaned up the small, curved bracket on the seat mount arm.  

I prepared the rockshaft and several other linkage parts and the tractor rear end housings for sand blasting.  It appears that the poor tractor had been buried in mud up to the seat spring at some point.  Caked on thick.  Some of it didn't want to succumb to a chisel.

I welded up the right rear final drive oil pan and sealed it with epoxy and POR15 gas tank sealer.  Primed and painted, ready to install.  I then cleaned up the new rim and tire of all the leaked oil and sand blasting grime that got stuck in the oil.

I welded up the seat.  This was a bit difficult because the metal was so thin.  Kept burning new holes but I did get all of the cracked areas attached back together and then smoothed by grinding and epoxy.  I had to grind off all around the edge.  It was jagged and sharp.  It's now less jagged and less sharp (but substantially all there).

I applied the bed liner material to the steering wheel.  I didn't think the prior new paint finish would hold up very well.  It turned out awesome.  It looks great, nearly as good as a new one.  I forgot to take pics this time, too busy trying to cram as much as possible into a week.

I installed a new 4 stage compressor air dryer on the wall and got it ready for use next trip.  This makes 5 stages given the one just after the compressor.  If it's still spitting a stream of water out after this, I'm gonna be upset :(

I was able to return the power director hitch-to-hydraulic pump control rod to its plunger hole.  Hard to imagine how it got knocked out without doing any damage at all.

I installed a solar trickle charger to the front of the barn and soldered an extension cable to the too short solar panel cable and ran it across the rafters to drop down at the tractor.  I bought another one for the garage for dad's 57 Thunderbird, but didn't get it installed yet.

I picked up my new suitcase weights from Fastenal.  Four 70 lb weights.  I think that will suffice for nearly anything I might want to do.  I also got 2 front wheel weights.

Helped my brother unload the new 6-foot finish mower and tarped it.

Took measurements for my new tach sensor design.  I'm thinking it will install at the bottom bell housing inspection hole and mount to that drop down loop just in front of it.  Since that's probably intended as a "weep" hole, I'll need to consider that.

Didn't get pics this week.  It was mostly me getting filthy removing rust and grease and mud from various parts in prep for sand blasting.  Saves a huge amount of blasting media if you get the 1/2" thick encrusted sections knocked off first.  I got a brief first start and run clip I may put up, but even it is only about 1 second long.

Your doing a awesome job. Maybe I will get some inspiration to work on our CA too.

I modified the pulse measurement approach slightly.  Instead of counting pulses, I decided to just measure the time from leading edge to leading edge.  I then sample 5 sets in a row and average those to reduce noise.  This has the added benefit of being able to handle much higher pulse rates since it drops out of the loop as soon as a pulse transition occurs, ready for the next test.  I tested with a 4800 rpm 1.5VDC motor and it appeared fairly accurate (as well as reading a 3x value when it detected each of the 3 fan blades...was surprised it was that fast).  I may need to set up a more realistic test though to determine if 5 readings is enough to keep the noise down.  

I also added the code for the battery voltage sensor, but I'm unable to find the one I thought I had so a new one is on order for tomorrow (another $5 down the drain).  So I may have to tweak the resolution multiplier (changes one number) once I get the details/test of the one I ordered.  Next task is to decide if I can dim or blank the display after a period of steady state operation and how/when to "wake up".  That's the last software task that I plan, I think.

Edit:  Researching the TFT display, it appears that the brightness can be controlled via an analog signal.  Others require a PWM signal, some are not controllable.  This doesn't necessarily change my approach, but I COULD fairly easily add a brightness control interface rather than just on/off.

Edit:  Added benefit to making my own is that I can make it waterproof.  I now have the enclosure, aluminum, and acrylic sheets for the faceplate...my goal for 7/17.  I also decided to order a different PCB project board that fits the enclosure a little better than the one I have.

Edit:  I decided that the plastic enclosure was not going to be adequately sturdy.  Waiting on a metal enclosure.  Additionally, the plastic enclosure was a bit bigger than desired.  Plastic size choices are limited, but the metal one is much closer to the desired size.  Should arrive by 7/24.  I can reuse the faceplate as-is with the new enclosure.

I've completed the enclosure parts arrangement design and drilled mounting, cabling, and switch holes.  I believe I can get by with a single PCB by dispensing with the dedicated screw terminals for power and RPM sensor (they'll go to a screw terminal anyway on the Arduino breakout PCB).  

The clamp should nicely fit the steering column (I have different rubber insert sizes to try but I believe this is the correct one).  Since the steering column is at an angle, the mount can be locked at any angle as well, but the detents are at 90 and 45 degrees.  There will be a push button on/off switch (with blue illuminating ring), and there are two waterproof cable clamps.  The large fender washers are to distribute the strain to a wider area.  I was afraid the ABS enclosure wouldn't stand up to this mounting arrangement, so opted for a metal enclosure instead.  It should meet IP6x weatherproofing requirements (resistant but not submersible).  I'll probably need to seal the switch better, it seems substandard as-is, although claims IP6 rating.  I'll probably include a silica packet inside as well.