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the3880 
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 Topic: Broken shifter pins
Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 3:39am |
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Hello I know this topic has been discussed a bit but I have a wd45 I picked up which runs nicely but has some deferred maintenanace. The last time I was on a WD was when I was maybe ten years oldl my grandpa owned one. Now at 45 I have my own. My big issue is that the shift lever pins broke pretty soon after I got it and it is stuck in first gear. Shifter rotates about 30 degrees and lifts up a little bit. I understand there is a C clip holding the shifter in place? Since it is stuck in first gear is it harder to remove than if it was in reverse or something else? I Have basic mechanical knowledge and a well kitted out shop but not much tractor or transmission experience. Can someone give me an idea of the process to remedy this and the amount of hours required? I have a welder to add material to the bottom of the shifter. Thanks in advance I realy appreciate the help.
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WF owner
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 4:56am |
If you want to remove the shift lever, remove the rubber shift boot, then the snap ring. You should be able to pick the shifter out. There are pins on the side of the shifter to keep it aligned. Be careful that you don't knock the pins out, which will drop into the transmission. If all goes well, it's a 5 minute job to remove.
You can buy replacement pins if yours are worn badly.
WD45's and late WD's, with a curved shifter commonly have this problem. I, personally, haven't heard of it much, in the older straight shifter, WD's.
If it's a straight shifter, it should be pretty easy to find a decent used transmission cover and shifter.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 7:21am |
the3380, Welcome! We need some pictures. Yes this is pretty common in the WD45 series. Root causes. 70 years of wear and tear. a shift lever that puts a lot of pressure on the wear points. My guess is that the pin/s are not broken. Havent seen broken parts just well worn sloppy fits can cause this. WF is correct. Boot off, snap ring pulled, there may be a cupped spacer in there above the ball area of the shift lever, pull that too. carefully lift the shifter lever vertical, watch the side pin or pins. As mentioned these can fall into the tranny. when the lever is out use a long screwdriver to re-align the shifting forks to the neutral position. Check the knob on the end of the shifter for wear. (dimensions are on here some where?) repair knob if required. check side pin for wear on pin and or slot in ball. I have had to weld up the ball slot and rework the pin head groove too. I have used a magnet to remove the side pins/s. This might take more than one attempt to get this corrected. so dont put all the tools away until tested. BTDT
Some pictures may help?
side pins:
added second pin
You can pull the tower if you need too ,but I doubt if you will have to go that far.
Hope this helps a little. Hope I did not over load you with info. You can do this! Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 09 Oct 2019 at 7:31am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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the3880
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 8:54am |
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OK so thats better than what I thought. My one question to the responses is how do I know where the neutral position is with the shifting forks to the neutral position is? my sense is that the pins are indeed broken but I hope im wrong on that! Also in terms of making sure the pins are retained id like a little guidance on how best to do that.
Edited by the3880 - 09 Oct 2019 at 8:55am
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the3880
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 9:00am |
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deleted the video i was trying to post. its in the next message
Edited by the3880 - 09 Oct 2019 at 9:03am
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the3880
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 9:02am |
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HudCo
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 9:05am |
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when you look down the shifter hole and all three rails are lined up two create a slot for the end of the shifter to slide back and forth
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JimD
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 9:54am |
Here's all the parts you might need:
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Owner of OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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the3880
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 12:32pm |
OOk so there appear to be several issues. First there is just one pin which isnt broken. Havent checked it for wear yet The thin dimension of the ball on the bottom is .315 and the wide is .51 The slot for the pin on the shifter appears to be pretty wallowed out There appears to be a bend in the shifter just above the lower ball. Is this normal?
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WF owner
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 12:42pm |
As HudCo said, the rails will be aligned when you have the tractor in neutral. I usually put the hand clutch ahead or lock the foot clutch ahead to take the pressure off the gears. (Make sure the tractor can't roll !!!). I use an alignment tool, but a long screwdriver will work, too. When you look in there with a light, it will be apparent what you need to do.
As far as removing the pins, I stuff a rag into the bottom of the shift tower, so if I do drop them, they will fall onto the rag and not to the bottom of the transmission. (Learned from experience!!!). I have a cow magnet that I attach to the pry bar I use to get them out. If you get them part way out, long needle nose pliers will usually finisih the job.
Reinstalling the pins, without dropping them isn't quite so easy !!! Put a little grease on the new pins to help hold them in.
Edited by WF owner - 09 Oct 2019 at 12:44pm
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the3880
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 12:45pm |
photo album of the shifter.
So its fairly obvious I need to add metal to the pin slot but i really want to know if that bend in the rod near the bottom is normal or if that is damage?
Edited by the3880 - 09 Oct 2019 at 1:27pm
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the3880
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 1:30pm |
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So also for some reason I cant get the pto or the lift arms to work this morning I feel like its just some lever is not in position or something? Im totally new to tractors so i could be missing something really obvious.
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 1:32pm |
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I see several issues there. One, the slot for the pins is extremely wallowed out. Two the ball has significant wear on the bottom, and three, the shifter does appear to be bent on the portion below the ball. That can all be repaired, but I think I would look for a replacement shift lever. Should be quite easy to find a replacement. Is that a straight shift lever or is it the curved shifter?
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WF owner
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 2:10pm |
It does seem to be pretty worn in the pin area. If it were mine, I would consider getting a used shift lever or having that one built up and machined.
Is it a straight shift lever (I assume)?
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WF owner
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 2:11pm |
 the3880 wrote:
So also for some reason I cant get the pto or the lift arms to work this morning I feel like its just some lever is not in position or something? Im totally new to tractors so i could be missing something really obvious. |
Is your foot clutch locked ahead?
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the3880
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 4:16pm |
SSo I resolved the pto and lift issue.
The shifter is curved shaft which I dont like. My plan for the time being is to weld some filler Into the slot and machine it out to .30 which is what It appears to be originally. I'll heat and straighten The shaft below the ball And weld a crosspiece onto the shaft about halfway up For a handle. Likely will order a new shifter later but Just want to have some fun with this one. Really appreciste tge help I wouldnt have felt
Comfortable starting in on this on my own.!
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 8:15pm |
the3880, Ok you now have a plan for som much neede repairs. I would straighten the bottom of the shift lever. I have never seen one bent like that. Then weld up the slots in the ball and rework. I have mad new pins and even added a second pin opposite the first one for added alignment during shifting. These curved shift levers worked well for years and years when everything was new. That bent bottom portion tells me it may have been handled very roughly at one time or another. Looking down into the forks they need to align so that the shifter lever can move freely to the right and left (netural position. Thats when you have the gears in the correct location to insert the shifter and start to test on your work. Good luck and let us know. I have welded up several of the worn ball slots and ground and filed. Also a new pin can be made to fit a larger slot too.
By the way the dimensions on the bottom of the shifter don't sound too bad. That bend could be causing you some/ most of the problem. Since its stuck in first gear you need to bring that fork (slot) back towards the rear of the tractor to allgn (be in netural) with the other forks.
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 09 Oct 2019 at 8:38pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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WF owner
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Posted: 09 Oct 2019 at 8:27pm |
Since you have a curved shifter, you have either a late WD or a WD45. You might want to consider a new shift lever and new pins.
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the3880
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Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 12:30am |
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I was able to shift it pretty easily just using a generic steel rod. I like the idea of adding a second pin but probably wont do that now. Really a fun learning experience for me. This rig came with a 3 bottom snap coupler plow but mainly it will be used to plow an ice skating track on our lake and to do work in a vegetable plot next summer. Going to Fab a furrowed once I get things back in order with maintenance stuff.
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the3880
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Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 12:34am |
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seems like that shift lever may have been one of the very few things that was poiorly designed and thought out by the gentlemen in short sleeved white shirts.
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WF owner
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Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 4:59am |
The curved shifter started in the 1953 WD models and continued on through all the WD45's. It was the result of a transmission change. The older straight WD's had straight cut gears. The later curved shifter had tapered (helical) gears.
Before you condemn the transmission, remember that the newest WD45's are over 60 years old and no one knows what kind of abuse that tractor had during those years.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 6:41am |
the3880, That's good that you can shift the tranny with a bar. Adding the second pin is easy. just drill through from the existing hole. about a 5 minute job. WF is correct in these areas. Also I have never seen a WD45 on a lake! We will have to have pictures of that! All I can picture is it spinning more than pushing??? Some decent chains may be in order too? Be gentle on the guys in the white shirts. I resemble that remark in my past life!:)
Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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200Tom1
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Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 12:08pm |
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Call Brenda at Sandy Lake Implement. They have over sized pins to compensate for the wear. If you need a new shiftlever i would buy it from them.. I bought an aftermarket one and it is not a good fit. Also if you need new fenders i would buy them from Sandy Lake. I bought after market ones from the same company I got the shift lever. They are about as thin as a piece of paper. Have fun with your new project.
Edited by 200Tom1 - 10 Oct 2019 at 12:09pm
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 10 Oct 2019 at 4:58pm |
Since your shifter ball has but one pin, I'd say you have a WD transmission that would normally have a straight shifter. As can be seen, your shifter obviously has at least one curve in it but that one is unfortunately on the wrong end. It would take a lot of abuse to bend a shifter like that. If it is indeed a WD transmission and some P.O. has put a curve in the upper part of the shifter, this would account for the "wallowing out" of the ball due to the increased stress placed on it by the curved lever. The reason the late WDs and the WD-45s with the curved shifter have two of those pins is to provide additional support for the lateral stresses placed on them by that curve in the shifter.
Edited by Brian G. NY - 10 Oct 2019 at 4:59pm
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the3880
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Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 5:37am |
So did a late night session of heating and straighening the shifter, welding filler material into the pin groove, and welding a crossbar onto the knob area for my preferences. took it for a midnight drive and it shifts all the gears well. Really happy.
Like most things in life this is an iterative process. You really get things right the third time you do it. I made a few mistakes and ended up doing parts of this 3 times. My shifter ball needed more diameter and could still use more to make it really snug but its pretty unlikely to happen. At some point in the future ill pull it all out again add a second pin and refine the handle and add a bit more diameter to the ball but as it is it works well and im satisfied with it. It beacame pretty obvious that alot of the problems come from the fact that the little cup under the c clip was installed upside down. I added some pics to this album. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGYacsFqyhtfXSgC6 ; There are a few pics of the tractor and you can see that it requires only basic tools like an angle grinder a file a propane torch and a 225 ac lincoln welder running at 105? amps which was maybe a bit too hot. I just used 6013 1/8 rod and it seemed to work well. Really enjoyed it and if you have a curved shifter thats still functional you could remove the curve with just a torch and save yourself having to do this later! Really appreciate all the advice what a neat community!
Edited by the3880 - 11 Oct 2019 at 5:43am
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Lonn
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Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 6:19am |
the3880 wrote:
You really get things right the third time you do it. |
BTDT Call it a learning experience.
Edited by Lonn - 11 Oct 2019 at 6:19am
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 7:13am |
the3880, For some reason the picture link did not work this time. maybe I will go back to your previous post where it did function and try that. The do it three times thing: Well in my world its pretty normal and I call it living! Glad you have the tools and now have the experience to repair these! Now I need you to tell me why my WD45 is sticking in forth gear. I can finally get it out but I have to hold my mouth just right! Glad you were successful on your repair! Thanks for the update too!
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 7:30pm |
So.......nobody else sees the obvious.......it's a WD tranny........not a WD-45 tranny.
Again......the WD shifter uses one pin.......the WD-45 shifter uses 2 pins.
Putting a bend in a WD shifter will put undue stress on that one single pin!
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 9:04pm |
I have a 1954 WD45 that only had one pin. I drilled through and added a second on the right side of the tower. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 11 Oct 2019 at 10:05pm |
Brian G. NY wrote:
So.......nobody else sees the obvious.......it's a WD tranny........not a WD-45 tranny.
Again......the WD shifter uses one pin.......the WD-45 shifter uses 2 pins.
Putting a bend in a WD shifter will put undue stress on that one single pin! |
Dad bent the stick back some on his/my WD. Easier to operate but I will admit the one pin hole is badly worn in the housing
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