You can buy replacement pins if yours are worn badly.

WD45's and late WD's, with a curved shifter commonly have this problem. I, personally, haven't heard of it much, in the older straight shifter, WD's.

If it's a straight shifter, it should be pretty easy to find a decent used transmission cover and shifter.

Welcome! We need some pictures. Yes this is pretty common in the WD45 series. Root causes. 70 years of wear and tear. a shift lever that puts a lot of pressure on the wear points. My guess is that the pin/s are not broken. Havent seen broken parts just well worn sloppy fits can cause this. 

shows the movement and rotation.

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OOk so there appear to be several issues.

First there is just one pin which isnt broken.    Havent checked it for wear yet

The thin dimension of the ball on the bottom is .315 and the wide is .51

The slot for the pin on the shifter appears to be pretty wallowed out

There appears to be a bend in the shifter just above the lower ball.  Is this normal?

As far as removing the pins, I stuff a rag into the bottom of the shift tower, so if I do drop them, they will fall onto the rag and not to the bottom of the transmission. (Learned from experience!!!). I have a cow magnet that I attach to the pry bar I use to get them out. If you get them part way out, long needle nose pliers will usually finisih the job.

Reinstalling the pins, without dropping them isn't quite so easy !!! Put a little grease on the new pins to help hold them in.

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So its fairly obvious I need to add metal to the pin slot but i really want to know if that bend in the rod near the bottom is normal or if that is damage?   

Is it a straight shift lever (I assume)?

Is your foot clutch locked ahead?

SSo I resolved the pto and lift issue.  

The shifter is curved shaft which I dont like.

My plan for the time being is to weld some filler

Into the slot and machine it out to .30 which is what

It appears to be originally.  I'll heat and straighten

The shaft below the ball

And weld a crosspiece onto the shaft about halfway up

For a handle.    Likely will order a new shifter later but

Just want to have some fun with this one.

Really appreciste tge help I wouldnt have felt

Comfortable starting in on this on my own.!

 Ok you now have a plan for som much neede repairs.

 I would straighten the bottom of the shift lever. I have never seen one bent like that.

Then weld up the slots in the ball and rework. I have mad new pins and even added a second pin opposite the first one for added alignment during shifting.

These curved shift levers worked well for years and years when everything was new. That bent bottom portion tells me it may have been handled very roughly at one time or another.

Looking down into the forks they need to align so that the shifter lever can move freely to the right and left (netural position. Thats when you have the gears in the correct location to insert the shifter and start to test on your work.

 Good luck and let us know. I have welded up several of the worn ball slots and ground and filed. Also a new pin can be made to fit a larger slot too.

By the way the dimensions on the bottom of the shifter don't sound too bad. That bend could be causing you some/ most of the problem.

Since its stuck in first gear you need to bring that fork (slot) back towards the rear of the tractor to allgn (be in netural) with the other forks.

Regards,

 Chris

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Before you condemn the transmission, remember that the newest WD45's are over 60 years old and no one knows what kind of abuse that tractor had during those years.

That's good that you can shift the tranny with a bar. Adding the second pin is easy. just drill through from the existing hole. about a 5 minute job.

As can be seen, your shifter obviously has at least one curve in it but that one is unfortunately on the wrong end.

It would take a lot of abuse to bend a shifter like that.

If it is indeed a WD transmission and some P.O. has put a curve in the upper part of the shifter, this would account for the "wallowing out" of the ball due to the increased stress placed on it by the curved lever.

The reason the late WDs and the WD-45s with the curved shifter have two of those pins is to provide additional support for the lateral stresses placed on them by that curve in the shifter.

took it for a midnight drive and it shifts all the gears well.   Really happy.   

Like most things in life this is an iterative process.  You really get things right the third time you do it.   I made a few mistakes and ended up doing parts of this 3 times.   My shifter ball needed more diameter and could still use more to make it really snug but its pretty unlikely to happen.  At some point in the future ill pull it all out again add a second pin and refine the handle and add a bit more diameter to the ball but as it is it works well and im satisfied with it.  It beacame pretty obvious that alot of the problems come from the fact that the little cup under the c clip was installed upside down.    I added some pics to this album.    https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGYacsFqyhtfXSgC6 " rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/HGYacsFqyhtfXSgC6  ;  There are a few pics of the tractor and you can see that it requires only basic tools like an angle grinder a file a propane torch and a 225 ac lincoln welder running at 105? amps which was maybe a bit too hot.   I just used 6013 1/8 rod and it seemed to work well.  Really enjoyed it and if you have a curved shifter thats still functional you could remove the curve with just a torch and save yourself having to do this later!   Really appreciate all the advice what a neat community!

For some reason the picture link did not work this time. maybe I will go back to your previous post where it did function and try that.

The do it three times thing: Well in my world its pretty normal and I call it living!

Glad you have the tools and now have the experience to repair these! Now I need you to tell me why my WD45 is sticking in forth gear. I can finally get it out but I have to hold my mouth just right! 

Glad you were successful on your repair! Thanks for the update too!

Regards,

 Chris

Again......the WD shifter uses one pin.......the WD-45 shifter uses 2 pins.

Putting a bend in a WD shifter will put undue stress on that one single pin!

Regards,

 Chris

Dad bent the stick back some on his/my WD. Easier to operate but I will admit the one pin hole is badly worn in the housing

The thing that really draws me to the Allis tractors aside from my love for the color orange is the really well done engineering.   They built something that can be reapired and modded by someone with basic skills and basic tools.   

There is a method to getting the tower forks to easily drop down on to the groves that move the gears. I don't have it memorized. Sandy Lake has a real good paper written up on getting the gears in the right location for the tower to drop on easy. I think the transmission gears need to be in second. Then once the tower is in position the shifter forks slots (as viewed for the top can be aligned (across) using a long screw driver.  Think of the screw driver same as your shift lever. In other words move the slots to be aligned (neutral position). You can then drop the shift lever in and it should move to the right and left through the aligned slots in the shifting forks indicating your in neutral. Double check other gear selection positions.  I am sure a expert will be along soon to do a much better job of explaining the procedure than I can.

 Regards,

 Chris

 Our old 45 had shifter problems bad, and for starters I welded the end of the stick up and enlarged it to fit the slots better without going between. Then welded up the pall of the shift lever to accomadate the wear that was in the bottom of the tower.  Being the tower was just one pin, it got drilled for the second pin. Then cut new slots in the ball and set the shifter in with home made pins, and put in hold down cupped washer and snap ring. That made a whole world of difference to how it shifts...  I always grab the lever in a firm position and shift it at that angle. No new slop/wear is evident yet after 30+ years of use.