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brand new d-17 |
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 10:45pm |
to me! I just traded for this d-17 series 3 and have lots of questions. it is in ok-ish shape. the brakes are gone or really out of adjustment and lots of worn bushings, like where the steering shaft goes inside the frame also the clutch pedal is attached. motor runs good but i need an exhaust gasket. i am trying to find a parts and operators manual. can anyone explain to me what all the levers do on the steering wheel? i know the one on the right is the throttle and front left is the rear lift but what does the one in front of it do? alst there is a knob on the guage panel what does it do? any one have a pic of what the parts for the brake adj. looks like? thanks jon
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Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Hi Jon and welcome to the forum.
The other lever in front of the hydraulic lever is the traction booster lever. It adjusts/sets the depth of the implement that you are pulling. Real nice to use. The only knob that I can think of on the gauge panel is the cigarette lighter, or maybe light switch. I grew up on a Series 1. HTH. Jim
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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The things you describe are pretty common for an aged tractor that's seen lots of use. These can all be rebushed/rebuilt as desired. The lower lever as you said is for the rear lift. Push it up all the way to raise, let it center to hold, pull all the way down to lower. The upper lever is a pressure adjustment against the load being pulled that raises the implement under heavy load. Basicly it's a draft control, but since the Allis hitch attaches to the same location as the applied load from the implement it's much more sensitive in reaction. This setup is call Traction Boost. The hitch setup is called a Snap Coupler. An owners manual will help you get the brakes adjusted and will help you get familiarised with everything properly so you don't hurt the tractor and more importantly it doesn't hurt you.
Almost forgot, if you have a black knob on the lower right of the dash is likely the engagement for a belt pulley. You can have the linkage and knob without having the pulley and vice versas. It was part of the attachment package. If you do have the lever and knob and don't want/need it I'd be interested as I'm missing this on mine.
Hope this helps and welcome. Edited by D-17_Dave - 29 Dec 2011 at 11:03pm |
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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The bushing on the steering shaft is still available from AGCO. I have a D17 too and I had to have a machine shop build my steering shaft up and then turn it down to match the bushing. Like the others say, the "toothed" lever is the traction booster for using tillage tools like a plow. Does your tractor have a large flat belt pulley on the right side? There is a knob on the lower right side of the gauge panel that you pull out to engage it.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Jim Hancock
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: EL Reno, Ok. Points: 1112 |
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Well, I just learned something! We didn't have a belt pulley on our D17, nor were there any knobs close to say anything about it. The only knob on the right side was to lock and set the brakes by pulling up on it. Thanks!
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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no belt pulley where that was is a hydraulic pump. would that knob turn the pump on and off? also do i have to take the final drive to replace the pads? kinda looks like the pads might be gone.
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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Serie IV 17's had the pump where the belt pulley went for low pressure high volumn hydraulics like most late model tractors had. If yours is a series III then someone likely installed the series IV setup onto it. Which is more deired for operating hydraulic late model equipment. And yes, it will connect/disconnect the drive for the pump.
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8163 |
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The shoes will come out the top if you can get those blasted anchor pins out of the bottom.Only need to pull the housing to replace the drum....and there is a good chance they are shot too if run with bad lining.
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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note to self dont pull that handle the pump is capped off. i just went out and looked at the brake pin, looks like it might be possible to reline it without splitting the final drive?
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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Edited by donais - 29 Dec 2011 at 11:33pm |
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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Interesting rear wheel weights you have there. Also you have a wide front end off a D-19 on it with the bolster weight hanging out past the grill and the wishbone cut down and braced. What's the odd canister on the left front. Keep the pics coming. We love pics.
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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Looks like an engine out of a series IV also. You may have the parts of a combined 17 and 19. Regardless, you have a nice tractor with lots of fun ahead.
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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bincitybandit
Silver Level Joined: 14 Aug 2011 Location: North Dakota Points: 125 |
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Tin looks pretty good on it. Ironically, you have the same rear rubber that my D17 has...........construction tires. Funny.......... |
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ALLIS: B, WC, G, G, D10, D12, D14, D14(NF), D15, D17, D17(NF), D19, D21, D21
MINNEAPOLIS MOLINE: U, U, U(NF), GB JOHN DEERE: L FORD: 871 Select-O-Speed CASE: 600 Combine |
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Rfdeere
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Idaville, IN Points: 3283 |
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What is the tractor's serial number ?
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Randy Freshour,Member Indiana AC Partners,
http://www.rumelyallis.com |
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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42043d is ite serial
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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it also came with some ag tires on i think 38 inch rims
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dustinmo
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Auxvasse, MO Points: 2185 |
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D17 dave why do you say that is a 19 front end? I looked at my 19s and they look similar but they are alot bigger than that front, and all my 17s wfs have that same front cast piece that the front piviot goes in and the 19 ones look different, and alot bigger. As well as taller, also it looks like the front has been broke, or extended because it is a diesel and they are longer than a gas one. The wheel weights seem to be the Oxnard 250 pounders, I would love to have a set of them
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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it also has filled rears and front weights behind the wheels. also any idea what the filter on the outside there might be for i was thinking some kind of breather. where it is hooked in looks like something else went there. it hooks in right behind the fuel filters.
Edited by donais - 30 Dec 2011 at 11:06am |
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Matt MN
Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Silver lake MN Points: 1491 |
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How can you tell a series 4 motor? Hanging on the front grill shell I believe that is a "Frantz" oil filter that uses a roll of toilet paper as the filter. |
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Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!!
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RichinWis
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Deforest Wis Points: 691 |
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Those are Oxnard weights on the back, they weigh about 350 pounds each, made by Oxnard division that also made the snap coupler blade and other implements.
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B26240
Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3860 |
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Welcome to forum, as you can see lots of help here.
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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thank you for the welcome hope to someday be as big a help as i have already recieved! that brings me to another question. hao does that hydraulic fitting work on the back? is it a single acting? it has the knob just below it is that on/off ,flow control? and how is that one turned on? is it the handle on the panel where the guages are? hope to soon change this over to normal 3 point all my attachments ate 3 pt. thanks again jon
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bincitybandit
Silver Level Joined: 14 Aug 2011 Location: North Dakota Points: 125 |
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ALLIS: B, WC, G, G, D10, D12, D14, D14(NF), D15, D17, D17(NF), D19, D21, D21
MINNEAPOLIS MOLINE: U, U, U(NF), GB JOHN DEERE: L FORD: 871 Select-O-Speed CASE: 600 Combine |
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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The front bolter weight looks to hand out past the edge of the grill. D-19 front weight is longer as is the grill and the rest of the sheet metal to house the turbo. With the splice in the wishbone and the front pivot weight it would be a 19 front end. I did the same on mine as at the time I couldn't locate a 17 front end. The tube by the spin on filter looks late model also. Paint on the engine and torque housing looks so much less faded than the hood and grill. Might be someone has done some swapping. Engine has had the injector pump changed or rebuilt. I don't think they went to the timing advance version of the pump until sometime in the series III. They used them in all the IV's and 19's. Also the oil filter is a spin on, not the cartridge filter. Also changed when they updated the engine for the IV's and 19's. I don't think they were common on the III's but I haven't seen many III diesels. @ bolts and a gasket though to change to a spin on filter. I did this too. Much more dependable at keeping a leaky gasket from popping up. But upside down makes just as much mess when changing.lol
The quick coupler on the rear acts as a single acting cyl. only. It piggy backs the rear lift so if you use a semi mount plow or snap coupler large implement as your draft control, (top lever under steering wheel) reacts to a load it will raise the rear lift, (front of the implement) and the rear of the implement at the same time. The wheel controls the amount of time it takes for the implement to lower back to the previous setting. This way you didn't have to lower the implement manually to resume the desired depth. Automatic raise, automatic lower.
I made a home made 3 point that still passes the pull of the load through the drawbar so I keep my draft control. There are several companies that make good aftermarket kits if you need this. I also plumbed in a spool valve and tagged into the rear plumbing so I could use double acting remotes. Simple but a little slow. It also requires the rear lift to remain in the raised position. If you have the side mounted pump, I would tag into that for remotes and leave the rear hydraulics alone. Best of both worlds.
I claim to be no expert on these tractors, a 17 was my first AC and it became my screen name so long ago. What I have learned is by studying the owner's and repair manuals handed down from when my Dad worked for AC in the mid-60's for awhile. Factory manuals come in pretty handy sometimes. Edited by D-17_Dave - 31 Dec 2011 at 1:51am |
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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Serial # places it as a 1962 model. Would fall right in with 19 engine production. Decals look like a series IV but no telling who might have painted or decaled or may have swapped out parts on it. Again, I would really recommend grabbing a few manuals before getting too deep into it. May help keep you from having to re-invent the wheel.
I'd love to see some more photo's of the other angles. Maybe one with the left hood off. If the water pump is on the head instead of the block and the heater in the intake manifold is a screw in cartridge like a spark plug, then I'd say the entire engine is of late model production. If the water pump is on the block then it's an early engine with later model parts swapped onto it. Edited by D-17_Dave - 31 Dec 2011 at 2:01am |
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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Gary(OR)
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Oregon Points: 175 |
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Other than the remote filter thingy up front, I don't see anything out of the ordinary ? This is my Series III, ser. 68xxx, which I no longer have.
Also, starting at ser. 42001 (Series III), they have band/disc brakes. Maybe I'm wrong, but didn't think they they were servicable (R & R)with out removing the final drives ?
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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looking at the trans fluid its low looked in the book and it says sae 80 ep transmission fluid is that gear oil or where would i get it? Edited by donais - 31 Dec 2011 at 2:28pm |
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D-17_Dave
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mocksville NC Points: 990 |
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80/90 will be fine.
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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donais
Silver Level Joined: 29 Dec 2011 Location: Ramona Ca Points: 160 |
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it is looking to me that this is a series three early serial #. they used old style brakes for one and new ais cleaner. anyone have any idea what this breather is for the chrome-ish one on the side in the pic? it hooks to just above the oil pan.. also im gonna try yo put some more pics of the steering wheel and power steering pump . still working on getting the operators manual . i need the front seal for the pump and still not clear on the lever layout on the wheel
Edited by donais - 03 Jan 2012 at 9:27pm |
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dustinmo
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Auxvasse, MO Points: 2185 |
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I guess someone has put 19 front ends under all 9 of my 17s and two odd ball ones under my 19s , but I know they are not 21 fronts under my 19s
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