brand new d-17
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42961
Printed Date: 28 Sep 2024 at 10:39pm
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Topic: brand new d-17
Posted By: donais
Subject: brand new d-17
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 10:45pm
| to me! I just traded for this d-17 series 3 and have lots of questions. it is in ok-ish shape. the brakes are gone or really out of adjustment and lots of worn bushings, like where the steering shaft goes inside the frame also the clutch pedal is attached. motor runs good but i need an exhaust gasket. i am trying to find a parts and operators manual. can anyone explain to me what all the levers do on the steering wheel? i know the one on the right is the throttle and front left is the rear lift but what does the one in front of it do? alst there is a knob on the guage panel what does it do? any one have a pic of what the parts for the brake adj. looks like? thanks jon |
Replies:
Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 10:59pm
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Hi Jon and welcome to the forum. The other lever in front of the hydraulic lever is the traction booster lever. It adjusts/sets the depth of the implement that you are pulling. Real nice to use. The only knob that I can think of on the gauge panel is the cigarette lighter, or maybe light switch. I grew up on a Series 1. HTH. Jim
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Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 10:59pm
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The things you describe are pretty common for an aged tractor that's seen lots of use. These can all be rebushed/rebuilt as desired. The lower lever as you said is for the rear lift. Push it up all the way to raise, let it center to hold, pull all the way down to lower. The upper lever is a pressure adjustment against the load being pulled that raises the implement under heavy load. Basicly it's a draft control, but since the Allis hitch attaches to the same location as the applied load from the implement it's much more sensitive in reaction. This setup is call Traction Boost. The hitch setup is called a Snap Coupler. An owners manual will help you get the brakes adjusted and will help you get familiarised with everything properly so you don't hurt the tractor and more importantly it doesn't hurt you.
Almost forgot, if you have a black knob on the lower right of the dash is likely the engagement for a belt pulley. You can have the linkage and knob without having the pulley and vice versas. It was part of the attachment package. If you do have the lever and knob and don't want/need it I'd be interested as I'm missing this on mine.
Hope this helps and welcome. ------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:07pm
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The bushing on the steering shaft is still available from AGCO. I have a D17 too and I had to have a machine shop build my steering shaft up and then turn it down to match the bushing. Like the others say, the "toothed" lever is the traction booster for using tillage tools like a plow. Does your tractor have a large flat belt pulley on the right side? There is a knob on the lower right side of the gauge panel that you pull out to engage it. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: Jim Hancock
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:11pm
| Well, I just learned something! We didn't have a belt pulley on our D17, nor were there any knobs close to say anything about it. The only knob on the right side was to lock and set the brakes by pulling up on it. Thanks! |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:13pm
| no belt pulley where that was is a hydraulic pump. would that knob turn the pump on and off? also do i have to take the final drive to replace the pads? kinda looks like the pads might be gone. |
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:18pm
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Serie IV 17's had the pump where the belt pulley went for low pressure high volumn hydraulics like most late model tractors had. If yours is a series III then someone likely installed the series IV setup onto it. Which is more deired for operating hydraulic late model equipment. And yes, it will connect/disconnect the drive for the pump. ------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:20pm
| The shoes will come out the top if you can get those blasted anchor pins out of the bottom.Only need to pull the housing to replace the drum....and there is a good chance they are shot too if run with bad lining. |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:23pm
| note to self dont pull that handle the pump is capped off. i just went out and looked at the brake pin, looks like it might be possible to reline it without splitting the final drive? |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 29 Dec 2011 at 11:28pm
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Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 12:00am
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Interesting rear wheel weights you have there. Also you have a wide front end off a D-19 on it with the bolster weight hanging out past the grill and the wishbone cut down and braced. What's the odd canister on the left front. Keep the pics coming. We love pics. ------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 12:03am
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Looks like an engine out of a series IV also. You may have the parts of a combined 17 and 19. Regardless, you have a nice tractor with lots of fun ahead. ------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: bincitybandit
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 7:34am
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Tin looks pretty good on it. Ironically, you have the same rear rubber that my D17 has...........construction tires. Funny.......... ------------- ALLIS: B, WC, G, G, D10, D12, D14, D14(NF), D15, D17, D17(NF), D19, D21, D21 MINNEAPOLIS MOLINE: U, U, U(NF), GB JOHN DEERE: L FORD: 871 Select-O-Speed CASE: 600 Combine |
Posted By: Rfdeere
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 8:49am
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What is the tractor's serial number ? ------------- Randy Freshour,Member Indiana AC Partners, http://www.rumelyallis.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.rumelyallis.com |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 10:26am
| 42043d is ite serial |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 10:37am
| it also came with some ag tires on i think 38 inch rims |
Posted By: dustinmo
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 10:53am
| D17 dave why do you say that is a 19 front end? I looked at my 19s and they look similar but they are alot bigger than that front, and all my 17s wfs have that same front cast piece that the front piviot goes in and the 19 ones look different, and alot bigger. As well as taller, also it looks like the front has been broke, or extended because it is a diesel and they are longer than a gas one. The wheel weights seem to be the Oxnard 250 pounders, I would love to have a set of them |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 11:02am
| it also has filled rears and front weights behind the wheels. also any idea what the filter on the outside there might be for i was thinking some kind of breather. where it is hooked in looks like something else went there. it hooks in right behind the fuel filters. |
Posted By: Matt MN
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 1:34pm
How can you tell a series 4 motor? Hanging on the front grill shell I believe that is a "Frantz" oil filter that uses a roll of toilet paper as the filter. ------------- Unless your are the lead horse the scenery never changes!! |
D-17_Dave wrote:Posted By: RichinWis
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 2:24pm
| Those are Oxnard weights on the back, they weigh about 350 pounds each, made by Oxnard division that also made the snap coupler blade and other implements. |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 6:25pm
| Welcome to forum, as you can see lots of help here. |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 10:14pm
| thank you for the welcome hope to someday be as big a help as i have already recieved! that brings me to another question. hao does that hydraulic fitting work on the back? is it a single acting? it has the knob just below it is that on/off ,flow control? and how is that one turned on? is it the handle on the panel where the guages are? hope to soon change this over to normal 3 point all my attachments ate 3 pt. thanks again jon |
Posted By: bincitybandit
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2011 at 10:33pm
------------- ALLIS: B, WC, G, G, D10, D12, D14, D14(NF), D15, D17, D17(NF), D19, D21, D21 MINNEAPOLIS MOLINE: U, U, U(NF), GB JOHN DEERE: L FORD: 871 Select-O-Speed CASE: 600 Combine |
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 1:47am
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The front bolter weight looks to hand out past the edge of the grill. D-19 front weight is longer as is the grill and the rest of the sheet metal to house the turbo. With the splice in the wishbone and the front pivot weight it would be a 19 front end. I did the same on mine as at the time I couldn't locate a 17 front end. The tube by the spin on filter looks late model also. Paint on the engine and torque housing looks so much less faded than the hood and grill. Might be someone has done some swapping. Engine has had the injector pump changed or rebuilt. I don't think they went to the timing advance version of the pump until sometime in the series III. They used them in all the IV's and 19's. Also the oil filter is a spin on, not the cartridge filter. Also changed when they updated the engine for the IV's and 19's. I don't think they were common on the III's but I haven't seen many III diesels. @ bolts and a gasket though to change to a spin on filter. I did this too. Much more dependable at keeping a leaky gasket from popping up. But upside down makes just as much mess when changing.lol
The quick coupler on the rear acts as a single acting cyl. only. It piggy backs the rear lift so if you use a semi mount plow or snap coupler large implement as your draft control, (top lever under steering wheel) reacts to a load it will raise the rear lift, (front of the implement) and the rear of the implement at the same time. The wheel controls the amount of time it takes for the implement to lower back to the previous setting. This way you didn't have to lower the implement manually to resume the desired depth. Automatic raise, automatic lower.
I made a home made 3 point that still passes the pull of the load through the drawbar so I keep my draft control. There are several companies that make good aftermarket kits if you need this. I also plumbed in a spool valve and tagged into the rear plumbing so I could use double acting remotes. Simple but a little slow. It also requires the rear lift to remain in the raised position. If you have the side mounted pump, I would tag into that for remotes and leave the rear hydraulics alone. Best of both worlds.
I claim to be no expert on these tractors, a 17 was my first AC and it became my screen name so long ago. What I have learned is by studying the owner's and repair manuals handed down from when my Dad worked for AC in the mid-60's for awhile. Factory manuals come in pretty handy sometimes. ------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 1:58am
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Serial # places it as a 1962 model. Would fall right in with 19 engine production. Decals look like a series IV but no telling who might have painted or decaled or may have swapped out parts on it. Again, I would really recommend grabbing a few manuals before getting too deep into it. May help keep you from having to re-invent the wheel.
I'd love to see some more photo's of the other angles. Maybe one with the left hood off. If the water pump is on the head instead of the block and the heater in the intake manifold is a screw in cartridge like a spark plug, then I'd say the entire engine is of late model production. If the water pump is on the block then it's an early engine with later model parts swapped onto it. ------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: Gary(OR)
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 2:29am
Other than the remote filter thingy up front, I don't see anything out of the ordinary ? This is my Series III, ser. 68xxx, which I no longer have.
Also, starting at ser. 42001 (Series III), they have band/disc brakes. Maybe I'm wrong, but didn't think they they were servicable (R & R)with out removing the final drives ?
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Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 2:26pm
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looking at the trans fluid its low looked in the book and it says sae 80 ep transmission fluid is that gear oil or where would i get it? |
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 31 Dec 2011 at 5:32pm
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80/90 will be fine. ------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 9:19pm
| it is looking to me that this is a series three early serial #. they used old style brakes for one and new ais cleaner. anyone have any idea what this breather is for the chrome-ish one on the side in the pic? it hooks to just above the oil pan.. also im gonna try yo put some more pics of the steering wheel and power steering pump . still working on getting the operators manual . i need the front seal for the pump and still not clear on the lever layout on the wheel |
Posted By: dustinmo
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 9:33pm
| I guess someone has put 19 front ends under all 9 of my 17s and two odd ball ones under my 19s , but I know they are not 21 fronts under my 19s |
Posted By: dpower
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 9:42pm
| That is NO d-19 wide front under that tractor, it is a d-17 wide front under this tractor. |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 10:51pm
  here are some pics any one have a part number for the front pump seal?
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Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 11:02pm
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How about a 70224558 ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 03 Jan 2012 at 11:24pm
| so where do all the cool people get these parts i want to support here. yall have been a huge help so far and i want to thank in my own way. |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 04 Jan 2012 at 11:13pm
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dave on the levers is the one with the 2 detents the raise and lower and the one with the saw tooth-ish stops the pressure one also i found an i&t shop manual now i need to find a opreators manual |
Posted By: stray
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 7:48am
You can try this site for the parts, log on as a guest user. For a operators manual you can check out the "Allis Store" at the top of this page. http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/login.aspx?region=NorthAmerica - http://www.agcopartsbooks.com/PartsBooksN/login.aspx?region=NorthAmerica ------------- 1969 190XT series 3 |
Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 3:00pm
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Yes, the lower is the raise/hold/lower. The other is a pressure adjustment, but it's only pressure against a load being pulled. So if your not applying a load from a plow or something you'll not notice any adjustment when moving this lever.
------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 8:47pm
That part is not going to be one, that any of our vendors except Sandy Lake will have, I may be wrong, but most of our vendors carry more of the aftermarket produced parts, many can source it for you, but Sandy Lake is an AGCO dealer and they support this site. I personally uses Schmidt and Sons, in Mount Hope KS, for all of my AGCO only type parts. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 05 Jan 2012 at 11:25pm
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well got some stuff done today the brakes were shot well they still are but now they work, until the linings get here. got the pin out with the 2 tools i made. the shoes were froze to it. I could not get the pedal linkage out, froze also, so after that broke i was able to get all the brake parts out and cleaned up. repaired the linkage and antisiezed it all... when i get the linings im going to bead blast everything and maybe powdercoat it. is that a bad idea with heat buildup? |
Posted By: TedBuiskerN.IL.
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 9:49am
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Did you have much trouble getting the brake pins out? I'm working on a 51 WD right now and haven't been able to move them yet. Next step is the torch. ------------- Most problems can be solved with the proper application of high explosives. |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2012 at 10:09pm
 one side came out pretty easy with the slide hammer puller the other side was a bear i had to make another puller with a threaded rod.
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Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 9:54pm
this is the hydraulic pump that is where the belt pully was,... is this a stock pump or an add on? on a different note i took the power steering pump apart (seal gets here on thursday) there is a groove where the outer lip rides . can i not seat the seal as far, or just clean it up real good and let it ride. or any way to fix the shaft? too poor to buy a new gear.. 
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Posted By: D-17_Dave
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 9:58pm
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Nothing like I've ever seen. I'd say it's a real nice setup of non-oem parts.
You can install the seal away from the worn groove as long as it's far enough away from the groove so it doen't want to track back into the groove. ------------- Yea, I can fix that..... |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 10:07pm
| thank you dave and does this thing turn on with the black handle on the dash? |
Posted By: Orange Blood
Date Posted: 08 Jan 2012 at 11:24pm
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If you have the Belt Pulley Knob on the dash, yes it should, unless something on the inside was modified as well, but highly unlikely. ------------- Still in use: HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060 Projects: 3-U UC 2-G 2-B 2-C CA 7-WC RC WDLP WF D14 D21 210 7045 N7 |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 12:15am
| i cant find any pictures for the steering bushing. does anyone have a pic ov that side its the one that goes into the torque housing |
Posted By: pre64
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 7:07am
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Gary You are right on the band brakes. If it does have them the axle housings have to come off for service. No way possible to pull them out the top. I have seen some Series 111 models with both types of breaks and did not match what the book said regardless of what the serial number was. Easiest way is just pull the 2 bolts from the top cover on one side and you will know right away. If you are going to need to pull them anyway start soaking the brake rod from the hole below and your pivots on the shoes with your favorite penetrant. Tim ------------- Coming up in the near future: another D17, 2-B's,WC styled, WC unstyled,2 snap coupler 3 bottom plows, pull type shredder,and 2 belly mowers. |
Posted By: pre64
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 7:11am
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You might want to put a "speedy sleeve" on the shaft if you have a bad groove. If the seal you get is a double groove, and you can measure it before installing it, you may be able to straddle it between the two lips and it will work fine. Tim ------------- Coming up in the near future: another D17, 2-B's,WC styled, WC unstyled,2 snap coupler 3 bottom plows, pull type shredder,and 2 belly mowers. |
Posted By: donais
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 8:49pm
| i priced the speedi sleeve today, holy crap! 45 dollars.! but i guess if that saves me the cost of a more expensive replacement one i guess its a deal |
Posted By: Rick of HopeIN
Date Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 9:09pm
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speedi sleeves are expensive. I guess they can get big money for them because the alternatives are usually a lot more $$$$ if you need one. ------------- 1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless |
Posted By: snakefoot
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 6:23pm
| do you have to pull the axle on d17 series iv to change brake pads??? thanks |
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 6:39pm
| Yes. |
Posted By: HD6GTOM
Date Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 7:38pm
| Front end has 5 bolt hubs. I thought all 19's had 6 bolt hubs. I know dads 19 had 6 bolt hubs but it had 18" tires on the front not 16'S. |