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brake rod...any tricks out there? |
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 27 Mar 2011 at 11:35pm |
The 175 I just bought has no brake rod on the LH side...I'm afraid someone twisted it off trying to adjust it. Anyone have a bright idea how to fix without pulling off the final drive....it has a loader on it too, making it more work. Now I know why the brakes were locked together.....
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DMiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 32446 |
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Hi Eldon, no, no real good way to get in there but pulling the tube. I had the same issue on the 180 two years ago and glad the tube came off as the brake disc was shot and the seal was out, went ahead and did both sides.
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BobHnwO ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Jenera Ohio Points: 693 |
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Twisted mine off my D17,gotta pull the final,loaded tire,had to use my TLB to lift it,pain in the BUTT!!
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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skipwelte ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 29 Oct 2009 Location: Anthon, Iowa Points: 723 |
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If there is a little left you can heat it up and let it cool, then try a vice grip and see if it will move. the only other resort is to pull the final drive, if its the left side, its a peice of cake, the right side is a pain in the behind as the hyd lever mounting bracket bolts to the final drive housing. Good luck
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Chris/CT ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Niantic, Ct Points: 1939 |
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Sounds like a brake job is in order.
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jiminnd ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Rutland ND Points: 2250 |
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185 broke but left about 3/4 inch stub sticking out, got a coupler screwed on and added more thread to rod, temperary fix but does work for now,
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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AHA! I like that....now I just have to find a way to look in there to see what's left of the rod. If it is as I think it is, I should be able to rotate the pivot pin (one side should have some threaded rod sticking out) and screw on one of those long nuts...and fab a connecting rod. Thanks!
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Skyhighballoon(MO) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pilot Grove, MO Points: 3115 |
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Eldon - I had one shear off flush with the pivot block (that was frozen) inside the housing. I actually managed to drill the bolt out thru the pivot block one size smaller....that was quite a job. Then I welded a smaller diameter grade 8 bolt that would fit thru the hole onto the brake rode, stuck it thru and put a nut on the back side to hold it. My patch job has held up for about 2 or 3 years now I think. Mike
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1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex
1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
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Eldon (WA) ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Spokane, WA Points: 7765 |
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Well I tried my idea, but I couldn't get the pivot pin to rotate. Plenty of thread on the other end, but that rod musta been broken off a long time ago and is frozen solid to the levers. I was able to make a heavy hook and fabbed a linkage to try the brake out anyway....no brakes. So I guess it will be a job for next winter. I have 2 others that need the brakes done soon anyway, maybe I can get good at it if I do them all at once.
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