any bad stories after switching oil types

  it has been done in the hydraulics all the time  with no problems in my b ook

May need to change the filter shortly after switching to detergent oil. If there is a lot of sludge build up the detergent oil may cut it loose. I would run it a few hours and change the oil and filter again. You may also have a few more leaks once the detergent oil cuts some of the sludge loose.

Dump a quart of Gunk Motor Flush or a quart of diesel fuel in oil first and let it sit and run (no load) long enough to warm the oil up before draining it.  That will remove a bunch of the sludge with the old oil.  Then add a can of SeaFoam to the new oil after you change it. Just did that this weekend to my WD45.  Oh - and I also used 15W-40 heavy duty oil too when I changed it.   Oil pressure was great after the change after it warmed up - like over around the "L" on Normal on a good Allis gauge.  Mike

Edited by Skyhighballoon(MO) - 22 Nov 2010 at 11:01pm

The Rotella oil is a good why to go.  If you use the tractor in cold weather for anything, another good choice would be the Mobil 1 Diesel 5w-40 oil.  It is also rated for SL and SM spark engine use.  It also has plenty of zinc additive in it for bearings and flat tappet cams.  I've gone to using it everything (8 engines) except one vehicle with a fussy specification (GM4718M).

You may want to change the filter after 10-20 hours after doing the oil change.

Here's an interesting link to info on Mobil 1 oils:  http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

Todays motor oils are waay to good at cleansing to dump in a gunked up engine IMO. Years ago I was told to never switch a high houred or gunked up engine from non-det to detergent oil but like everything else I need to see and feel for myself. Switching two engines cost me two overhauls.  Like David said leave the junk in the pan where it hurts not a thing or have it circulating through your motor, choice is yours? On a fresh engine use the best modern oils without worry. Same with your hydraulics. Commonly repteted folly on here is dont run dertergent oil because it will foam, horse hockey! You dont want detergent oil in there but it has nothing to do with foam as they dont use Ivory soap for detergent agent in motor oil. The reason for spec'ing a non detergent in the hydraulics is the lack of a filter, where do you want the junk, circulating? or sitting in the bottom of the sump??? I would never put detergent motor oil in an unfiltered hyd system, old new, cleaned or not.  

tc wrote: Hello, Thinking of switching from non detergent to newer types of oils of today to run in an allis c any good or bad stories people have about this? Thanks

To actually answer the OP's questions, I have bought a couple of 1977 IH (I know, boo) Scouts over the years.  I don't know what kind of oil was being used in them (probably common detergent oils of the 70's and 80's).  I did change both over to Mobil 1 without any issues including leaks, for whatever that's worth.  

I still think that if you have so much gunk in your engine that changing to a detergent oil would hurt the engine, you're probably going to have problems regardless of what oil you use--------including more non-detergent oil.

If you have an impact wrench or good cordless drill, how long can it take to drop the pan and remove the valve cover to check and clean out if necessary???

You could also try Auto-RX additive that slowly dissolves the sludge and deposits in the filter.  Supposedly it does not break loose large pieces.  i ran it in my Case 930 diesel with no bad results.

http://www.auto-rx.com/


Edited by Rawleigh - 23 Nov 2010 at 2:56pm

  I worked for the county road comm. over 20 yrs. every pice of equip. from head mans buick to the 98o cat loader air or water cooled got  15-40 poured in to it &  got changed twice a year never had a engn. failure due to oil.  thats all i use in my 5 B s 2 C s 2 CA s & 1 G  engn. & trans.