any bad stories after switching oil types
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Topic: any bad stories after switching oil types
Posted By: tc
Subject: any bad stories after switching oil types
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2010 at 7:39pm
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Hello, Thinking of switching from non detergent to newer types of oils of today to run in an allis c any good or bad stories people have about this? Thanks |
Replies:
Posted By: norm[ind]
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2010 at 7:46pm
| it has been done in the hydraulics all the time with no problems in my b ook |
Posted By: Coke-in-MN
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2010 at 7:52pm
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Now i don't need 3 or 4 differnt oils setting around, use Rotella 15/40 in just about everything but bikes, use 20/50 in them.
Saves the hassle of finding oil and keeping it separate.
Do use 10/30 in pickup and new car or last time i had it changed 5/30 I guess was used. ------------- Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful." |
Posted By: Hubert (Ga)engine7
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2010 at 10:20pm
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May need to change the filter shortly after switching to detergent oil. If there is a lot of sludge build up the detergent oil may cut it loose. I would run it a few hours and change the oil and filter again. You may also have a few more leaks once the detergent oil cuts some of the sludge loose.
------------- Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God. |
Posted By: DanNESD
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2010 at 10:29pm
| I run 15-40 in just about everything. You will find new oil leaks and oil consumtion might increase slightly but I havn't had any serious problems. |
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2010 at 10:57pm
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Dump a quart of Gunk Motor Flush or a quart of diesel fuel in oil first and let it sit and run (no load) long enough to warm the oil up before draining it. That will remove a bunch of the sludge with the old oil. Then add a can of SeaFoam to the new oil after you change it. Just did that this weekend to my WD45. Oh - and I also used 15W-40 heavy duty oil too when I changed it. Oil pressure was great after the change after it warmed up - like over around the "L" on Normal on a good Allis gauge. Mike
------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |
Posted By: Jeff Z. NY
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2010 at 11:02pm
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Cleaning the sludge build-up is the biggest thing.
Drop the oil pan and clean it so any sludge doesn't plug up something. Check the valve cover and head for sludge also. |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 22 Nov 2010 at 11:28pm
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The Rotella oil is a good why to go. If you use the tractor in cold weather for anything, another good choice would be the Mobil 1 Diesel 5w-40 oil. It is also rated for SL and SM spark engine use. It also has plenty of zinc additive in it for bearings and flat tappet cams. I've gone to using it everything (8 engines) except one vehicle with a fussy specification (GM4718M). You may want to change the filter after 10-20 hours after doing the oil change. Here's an interesting link to info on Mobil 1 oils: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf - http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf ------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
Posted By: David Maddux
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 7:36am
| As far as cleaning sludge, I would drop the pan only. I would not want to put anything in my motor to cause it to circulate through the motor, I would rather let it set in the pan. |
Posted By: Butch(OH)
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 8:02am
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Todays motor oils are waay to good at cleansing to dump in a gunked up engine IMO. Years ago I was told to never switch a high houred or gunked up engine from non-det to detergent oil but like everything else I need to see and feel for myself. Switching two engines cost me two overhauls. Like David said leave the junk in the pan where it hurts not a thing or have it circulating through your motor, choice is yours? On a fresh engine use the best modern oils without worry. Same with your hydraulics. Commonly repteted folly on here is dont run dertergent oil because it will foam, horse hockey! You dont want detergent oil in there but it has nothing to do with foam as they dont use Ivory soap for detergent agent in motor oil. The reason for spec'ing a non detergent in the hydraulics is the lack of a filter, where do you want the junk, circulating? or sitting in the bottom of the sump??? I would never put detergent motor oil in an unfiltered hyd system, old new, cleaned or not. |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 12:38pm
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I'm a stickler for clean. If it were mine, both the pan and valve cover would be off and I'd wash out every last bit of sludge with solvent. Otherwise, if it's full of sludge, and you don't want to clean it out, stay with the non detergent. The C engine is a bypass type filtration system. Only a small amount of oil goes through the filter. Like Butch says, you loosen that stuff up, it's going through your bearings, etc. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: 427435
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 12:48pm
To actually answer the OP's questions, I have bought a couple of 1977 IH (I know, boo) Scouts over the years. I don't know what kind of oil was being used in them (probably common detergent oils of the 70's and 80's). I did change both over to Mobil 1 without any issues including leaks, for whatever that's worth. I still think that if you have so much gunk in your engine that changing to a detergent oil would hurt the engine, you're probably going to have problems regardless of what oil you use--------including more non-detergent oil. If you have an impact wrench or good cordless drill, how long can it take to drop the pan and remove the valve cover to check and clean out if necessary??? ------------- Mark B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel, GTH-L Simplicity Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not. |
tc wrote:Posted By: jjrosty
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 12:58pm
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I bought a used G that had the oil changed to detergent type oil right before i got it, within a year it started smoking very bad. tore it apart & found an oil pan full of what looked like hard plastic pieces that the detergent oil had released. after boiling the block out, a rebore, new crank bearings & cam etc, it quite smoking. I do us detergent oil now |
Posted By: Rawleigh
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 2:54pm
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You could also try Auto-RX additive that slowly dissolves the sludge and deposits in the filter. Supposedly it does not break loose large pieces. i ran it in my Case 930 diesel with no bad results. http://www.auto-rx.com/ - http://www.auto-rx.com/ |
Posted By: KY
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 3:04pm
| I would just keep using what your using. Someday when you do have to overhaul it you could switch it then. |
Posted By: pumpkin man
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 3:12pm
| I worked for the county road comm. over 20 yrs. every pice of equip. from head mans buick to the 98o cat loader air or water cooled got 15-40 poured in to it & got changed twice a year never had a engn. failure due to oil. thats all i use in my 5 B s 2 C s 2 CA s & 1 G engn. & trans. |
Posted By: Skyhighballoon(MO)
Date Posted: 23 Nov 2010 at 3:14pm
Brian - I should clarify I did pull my valve cover and clean all the sludge out of the head just as you describe, set the valve lash then reinstalled with a new valve cover gasket before doing my engine flush. This WD45 had regular oil changes with detergent oil before I got it. Mike ------------- 1981 Gleaner F2 Corn Plus w 13' flex 1968 Gleaner EIII w 10' & 330 1969 180 gas 1965 D17 S-IV gas 1963 D17 S-III gas 1956 WD45 gas NF PS 1956 All-Crop 66 Big Bin 303 wire baler, 716H, 712H mowers |