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Allis G sparking when battery unhooked

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rtr View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 2:45pm
:help:

I have a new 6 volt battery and new battery cables. I'm getting a good ground because when i go to hook up the ground cable I get a substantial spark from the battery post. I have ensured that no battery cable is touching anything. The reason for all of this discovery is because the tractor will not start. I am getting no voltage to the starter....pull the rod and acts like a dead battery. Where can my problem be?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wbecker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 3:08pm
You get a spark when connecting the ground cable to the battery? With no light turned on? We need more concise explanation or the situation.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 3:12pm
If you're getting a good spark, or any spark, for that matter when connecting the battery cables, you have a short somewhere. Other possibility is a light switch or something is turned on.  With everything off, there should be no spark or current flow when connecting cables.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 3:26pm
I know there is a short somewhere but I don't know what from. There is only a toggle for on/off but it sparks both ways. When cables are hooked up I get nothing when I pull the starter Rod. It acts like there isn't a battery hooked you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 3:26pm
* Hooked up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted in NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 5:08pm
Your cut out relay on the generator probably has stuck points. Disconnect it and then see if sparks go away.Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 5:16pm
or... maybe the ammeter is shorting to ground. The 'fiber' washers MUST isloate BOTH terminals from the mtg bracket.....
New ones are tubular plastic.....

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 6:30pm
You need a more descriptive current indicator than the spark at connection. I'd suggest a 6 volt 1 amp lamp like a car dome lamp. Wire that lamp between the battery post and the battery post connector. It won't be destroyed by a short and will indicate  by lighting, brighter the greater the potential short circuit current. Then take the circuit apart one circuit at a time until the lamp goes dark. Then reconnect that circuit and disassemble it until you find the cause of the load or short.

There isn't anything in electrical circuits that fail more often than not to reliably predict such problems. The diagnosis needs application of a logical procedure that I just described to be successful without simply replacing all electrical parts and wiring.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Nov 2016 at 9:27pm
Originally posted by Ted in NE-OH Ted in NE-OH wrote:

Your cut out relay on the generator probably has stuck points. Disconnect it and then see if sparks go away.Wink


I agree. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 9:00am
Since I had the problem of "no juice" from battery to starter, I decided the starter was grounded out and removed it for repair. 

I checked the continuity from the (-) starter battery cable and the frame of tractor. My meter beeped saying it was a complete ground. I made sure the battery cable wasn't touching the frame. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 9:46am
The beeper test is probably based on continuity for one or two milliamps. The starter requires a connection that can deliver at least a couple hundred amps, 100,000 times greater current so the continuity tester isn't a good indicator for the starter. That's partly why I suggested using a 1 amp lamp, it self protects itself from a short and doesn't show the current from a wet sprig of grass.

Have you ever cleaned the battery posts and connectors? My lifetime experience is that they need cleaning twice a year on a 6 volt system because there isn't much tolerance for dirty connections at 6 volts. My dad assigned that task to me about 1956 on his first new car, and 1954 Ford I block 6. I used a sturdy pocket knife blade to remove the corroded metal of the post and the connector until they shined. Today I use a wire brush that seems to be good enough at least for 12 volt connections that need to be cleaned every couple years.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 10:05am
Originally posted by Gerald J. Gerald J. wrote:

The beeper test is probably based on continuity for one or two milliamps. The starter requires a connection that can deliver at least a couple hundred amps, 100,000 times greater current so the continuity tester isn't a good indicator for the starter. That's partly why I suggested using a 1 amp lamp, it self protects itself from a short and doesn't show the current from a wet sprig of grass.

Have you ever cleaned the battery posts and connectors? My lifetime experience is that they need cleaning twice a year on a 6 volt system because there isn't much tolerance for dirty connections at 6 volts. My dad assigned that task to me about 1956 on his first new car, and 1954 Ford I block 6. I used a sturdy pocket knife blade to remove the corroded metal of the post and the connector until they shined. Today I use a wire brush that seems to be good enough at least for 12 volt connections that need to be cleaned every couple years.

Gerald J.

It's got a new 6 volt battery, and a new (+) ground cable. The (-) cable to the starter has bright shiny copper strands (00 gauge) but the rubber is deteriated. I swapped it out with another cable and got the same results. 


Edited by rtr - 08 Nov 2016 at 10:06am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JD Dan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 1:20pm
Do allis g tractors have a switch right on the starter like the b? I've had numerous problems with that style switch not being built properly or going straight to ground because *somebody* allowed the stud to turn during cable installation....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 2:19pm
I'd look first at the generator/cutout. Disconnect those wires first and see if it still sparks. If so, keep it disconnected and look for a short in the wiring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted in NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 7:30pm
If you had a short there would be smoking wires or something hot. I still say cut out relay stuck
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 7:45pm
If the cutout relay is stuck, then the generator will spin with the battery connected, and the fan belt off.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 9:16pm
Since you have the starter out, connect the battery and then touch the 2 wires that came off of the starter and see if you get a spark there. The starter shouldn't be a problem unless the starter switch is shorted. Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ted in NE-OH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 2016 at 9:28pm
It can't spin and turn the engine over, too much load.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Nov 2016 at 9:41am
Originally posted by Chalmersbob Chalmersbob wrote:

Since you have the starter out, connect the battery and then touch the 2 wires that came off of the starter and see if you get a spark there. The starter shouldn't be a problem unless the starter switch is shorted. Bob
I will try that soon as I get around it. Yeah when I would pull the starter rod, nothing would happen. No click, pop, nothing. It was as if no battery was even connected to the tractor. 

Thank you all for the help thus far.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2016 at 8:05am
Ok.....figured out the problems (kind of).

Bench tested starter and it worked, so I decided to test the "New looking" 6 volt battery on the tractor even though I had charged it and was getting spark with it. It tested at 2.4 volts. DEAD. Reinstalled starter and I went and got a 12 volt truck battery and went to hook it up on the tractor keeping the positive ground system. Got a large spark this time so I decided to unhook the wire on the generator closest to outside (on the very top). When I unhooked that wire the sparking at the battery stopped. Sorry for not knowing which wire I unhooked, as it was dark outside and I couldn't make much of anything. 

Anyways....put some gas in her, turned on the fuel valve, sanded the points a little, and she fired to life!! Ran good with no smoke for a couple minutes then died. Carburetor was dripping gas, and I tried to restart with some ether to no avail. I got a couple of pops and then it wouldn't do anything after that. I presume that the plugs got wet since the points were still firing. Looks like she'll need a tune-up and carburetor rebuild at the least. 

What could be the problem with the electrical system? The Voltage Regulator? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2016 at 9:21am
Originally posted by rtr rtr wrote:


What could be the problem with the electrical system? The Voltage Regulator? 


 There was no voltage regulator on a G Allis. If you have one, the whole system has been changed so there is no way for anyone here to diagnose the problem.
 As mention previously, the cut out relay CAN weld itself shut, causing the generator to act like a motor any time the the battery is hooked up. Remove the fan belt and hook that wire back up that caused the spark. Does the generator spin then?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2016 at 9:28am
Ok....it is a cut out relay. They both visually look the same. My bad. 

I will have to see. probably going to have to remove the hood to do the repairs now. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeM(GA) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2016 at 9:48am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2016 at 4:20pm
Joe I clearly see the difference there but the farmalls use one that looks like a VR. Pretty sure mine looks original except someone added a VR. I can get pictures soon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Nov 2016 at 10:25pm
Just because the Battery is new, doesn't mean its good. Its new to you.  Put a slow charge in it and do a draw test on it to make sure its good. Sounds to me like you have a couple problems. Either the Battery is shorted out, or its going dead due to a faulty VR or cutout. Gotta' take one item at a time and check it out starting with the Battery. You'll eventually find the problem...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2016 at 6:07pm
Can someone provide me with the correct part number for the Voltage Cutout. I also need the length of the original battery cable to the starter (- cable). I'm gonna go to my local starter generator repair shop and get those parts. He has 2/0 cable and he will make the battery cable there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2016 at 6:50pm
Get a price from your genny shop for a 12 volt generator and regular before you throw a lot of money at it. 12 volt batteries are more common anyway. I don't know how original you want to keep the tractor, but an alternator with a built-in regulator is doable.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2016 at 7:37pm
I'm going to try and keep this one original
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2016 at 9:22pm
rtr, I commend you for want to keep ORIGINAL. There is no need to make all kinds of changes. They worked fine when new. Most "upgrades" are done as a quick way to bypass a problem that should be repaired
My kind of guy. Bob


Edited by Chalmersbob - 12 Nov 2016 at 9:24pm
4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Nov 2016 at 7:01pm
Does anyone know the length of cable I need? I am supposed to pick my other Farmall parts up this week from his shop and would like to get the battery cable made. Details are in my original post.
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