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allis chalmers hd 16 dp buda 844 engine

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russell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2024 at 4:26pm
Hi Codger
Had a quick look up the sump with inspection camera its hard to get a real good look but it seems that all the connecting rods have not been hot or discoloured but as said its pretty hard to get a good look . I drained the oil from filters unfortunately some water came out of the bottoms of them but oil is just black no silver . I will remove the filters when i get a chance and have a better look . The front drive shaft i grabbed with my had has i tinny bit of movement back and ford the uni near the front has quite a bit of movement in it pretty much bugged im still trying to work out the best way to get the shaft out .
cheers       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2024 at 6:02pm
Water in the oil filter housing is usually not a good sign but for now let's say it's just condensate. It is still cause for concern however.

For the testing phase we are in, the pump driveshaft does not need removed; only taken loose from the crankshaft and the shaft moved out of the way so it doesn't catch or hang up on something while/if the engine spins. We are simply eliminating that variable from the equation.

Why was the dozer blade chained up in the first place? If you have a blown hose or something like that and the tractor was ran in that condition without hydraulic oil in the reservoir, the hydraulic pump very well could be no longer serviceable meaning locked up, or presenting the tightness experienced. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2024 at 7:05pm
Hi Codger

First thing i did was chain the blade up when engine seized as over time it drops down slowly and i thought if i keep it up would have a chance of towing dozer out of the paddock blade and rippers were working normal 
cheers 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 2024 at 7:45pm
That is great news and clears one hurdle I was having.

If you get that driveshaft loose at the crankshaft the hydraulic pump should turn quite easily by hand without much effort. You cannot spin it fast enough by hand to make any pressure so it should rotate easily without any tight spots really.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2024 at 4:46pm
Hi Codger
Just to let you know ive been a bit busy on farm and have not got back to dozer but will in the future i do appreciate the help from people just work comes first . You mentioned you had a 11b do you have any pictures ?
cheers   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2024 at 7:24pm
No worries Russell, I work with farmers near every day of the week and understand fully. Kinda in the blood I know well.

Yes, I have an 11B with a 1975 build. This tractor is a bit special to me personally as I actually drove it from the Allis-Chalmers finished tractor staging area to the loading area when it was brand new. Which of the two I drove that day to be shipped to the selling dealership, I don't know. There were two 11B tractors going/shipping that day to El Paso, IL and this is one of those two. Whether it was the first, or second tractor shipped that day, I don't know. However a local contractor purchased the machine and ran it several years to trading it in on a Caterpillar product. A now good friend of mine purchased it in 1997 with then brand new tracks. I came along in 2020 delivering a new farm tractor to him and conversation lead to this tractor. Investigation proved it one of the two I drove that day in March 1976.

Here's a couple photos:





Pretty good ole girl and I'm really happy with her.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 2024 at 4:17pm
Hi Codger
Thanks for the pictures i like your dozer and what a story to go with it. You were very lucky to come across it again .  I purchased my dozer at a clearing sale it came with the angle  blade but its original bull blade was sitting next to it and i did not buy it unfortunately i know the guy that did buy the bull blade and have asked him over the years if he would sell it but he will not its just siting there he does not have a dozer to put it on . Your pictures are inspiring me to get mine going again if possible .
cheers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Feb 2024 at 7:56am
Hi Russell; Thank you for the compliments. I had many friends, and parents of friends working at the AC plant where these tractors were built so the progression was almost a natural for me. Being young at the time I really didn't get to operate much machinery but that particular day I was in the right place at the right time so to speak. Knowing many of those working, some of the rules were "skirted" to get a job done. That is what happened here when two trucks showed up late in the day to load and I jumped into the fray to save time.

Here is another photo of the tractor without the risers on the front as it was built which were added by the prior owner. They are actually from a much older HD-11 series tractor:


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 12:27am
Hi Codger 
Its been a few weeks had a little time today and pulled the drive shaft of front of the engine. Hydraulic pump turns over buy hand drive shaft had a pretty bad universal joint notchy its not easy that to get shaft out not looking ford to putting back in . So i tried to turn engine over again with stop pulled out a few times it turned quite well then back to clicking starter to get it past tight spot i recon i heard the noise while turning over the tappet sounding noise it sounds like its coming from lower block up the front only a slow noise once every turn or so of the engine. Im convinced its a bearing or  some thing inside the engine . If the engine has spun a bearing is it possible to linish a crank shaft while still in the block? has any one done this before ? I am thinking that to pull engine out and rebuild is probably not worth the effort or money pretty sad really 

cheers             


Edited by russell - 19 Mar 2024 at 12:28am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 5:35am
Hi Russell; It is becoming to sound as if a rod bearing has spun so the belly pan and engine oil pan need to come off for further evaluation. Once access is gained you can pull rod caps and/or sometimes just tap with a small hammer the crankshaft end of the rod and see if there is any movement to know.

As far as doing anything with the crankshaft still in the block; not really any longer. Years ago there were little machines built to do this work but not so much any longer. It sounds like the tractor may be done for if the engine is down. It is not hard to weld up a crankshaft journal and have it ground to proper dimension, or ground undersize if not too bad. Sometimes just a polishing of the journal will do the job but not usually if a rod is knocking from spinning a bearing.

Regardless, going from your input it sounds as if the engine needs to come out to go much further. I don't know about parts availability on your tractor as never worked on one, (engine) but here they are difficult. A Cummins repower is probably best, but that is difficult in it's own right to make work.

If me, I'd pull the belly and oil pans and taking a small hammer knock on the lower ends of the rods from side to side, and up and down to ascertain if there is any movement. Any movement detected between the rod and crankshaft journal and the rod cap would be removed, and a section of "plastigage" inserted, rod cap reinstalled and torqued, then the rod cap removed again to measure the "plastigage" for width. The width of this will show you the bearing clearance according to the included chart furnished. If the clearance is within specifications, a strip of fine grit sandpaper roll, (emery cloth) works well for removing any bearing debris and lightly polishing the crankshaft journal. If bearing clearance is excessive, the engine needs to come out I'm afraid for further repair. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 8:26am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 8:52am
Originally posted by Codger Codger wrote:

Lookee here Russell:



  I did not check the link but be advised that early lanova 844, 16000, 1600H engines all use different bearings.  
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 9:22am
Yes, don't know the particulars of his engine but much of that can be sorted. I've modified main and rod bearings over the years to fit if they are the same dimensions internal, and external, so I don't rule anything out.

Had on old Hercules we line bored and poured babbit fillers into, line bored that, and then installed bearings from a Cummins engine. Time, money, and an aggressive attitude can work in one's favor at times to save things. I thought the guy was nuts till I seen the mahogany Chris Craft boat this was from. I was then quite proud to be a part of the project. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 10:00am
Originally posted by Codger Codger wrote:

Yes, don't know the particulars of his engine but much of that can be sorted. I've modified main and rod bearings over the years to fit if they are the same dimensions internal, and external, so I don't rule anything out.

Had on old Hercules we line bored and poured babbit fillers into, line bored that, and then installed bearings from a Cummins engine. Time, money, and an aggressive attitude can work in one's favor at times to save things. I thought the guy was nuts till I seen the mahogany Chris Craft boat this was from. I was then quite proud to be a part of the project. 
  i cant say on width, but all different diameters as hp grew so did journal size.  100% 16000-1600h.  dont recall specifics on hd844 but also different

Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 10:12am
thanks, be interesting to know exactly what he's working with. Tractor and engine serial number would be very helpful.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 6:00pm
A neighbour has had a HD 16 DP for quite a while, and a considerable knowledge of things Allis.

IIRC if the one here has the original engine it ought to be one of the late series
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 6:05pm
Hi 
Thanks again 
hd16dp -6087
16-05206
these are the numbers ive been told that the buda engine has the American made crankshaft wich are quite sort after as they fit to latter models with the Japanese cranks wich are prone to breaking . 
Ok my question is has any one had a spun conrod bearing and been able to just polish up the crank a bit and fit new bearings ? I guess the chances are slim i talked to a engine rebuilder and he has seen engines that are locked solid and crank is still ok luck of the draw i guess .  
cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Doughd16b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 8:03pm
Hi, I have a 16dp and 16b, you can give me a call anytime and I will try to help in any way I can. 252 916 2927
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 2024 at 8:10pm
Some more

"later ones would probably be ok but i would not turn up a 16000 or 21000 as they have smaller crank journals.  much harder to find bearings for these 3 vavle head engines than the later 16000H- 25000 etc."

In  comments at


And here on later cranks

https://www.jensales.com/products/ep-914162-allis-buda-in-frame-engine-overhaul-kit-ac-mark-ii.html

IIRC the usual distinction around Allis engines on calling them Buda's is the Lanova combustion system with injectors on the side of the head pointed horizontal across flat top pistons at the energy cell on the other side of the head.  They gave that away around late 1950's and went to the injectors vertical in the head with varous versions.


Edited by Ian Beale - 19 Mar 2024 at 9:00pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2024 at 10:47am
I concur Big smile  I searched high and low and got educated on bearings back in 2011.  ended up finding a set of bearings in Puerto Rico for the 3 valve 16000.  There are a few places still around in the USA that can rebabbit obsolete bearings, was real close to going that route.

Edited by CAL(KS) - 20 Mar 2024 at 10:49am
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2024 at 4:15pm
Thanks 
Looks like i have to remove sump and have a look unfortunately if the crank needs grinding i think i will call it quits of to the scrap yard . I have a 260 scraper with a 892 detroit fitted to it not much use to the dozer very sad to let dozer go .
cheers  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CAL(KS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2024 at 7:14am
when removing the oil pan, first remove the round cover under the suction screen assembly and take the screen assembly off or it will interfere when trying to get the pan down.  

Edited by CAL(KS) - 21 Mar 2024 at 7:14am
Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20

Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2024 at 3:57pm
Cal 
Thanks makes sense hope its not to bad inside the crank shaft would it be nice if i could remove the bearing clean up the crank replace  bearings  some how i dont think so 
cheers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Eric B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2024 at 6:52pm
I agree with what Codger said the other day... possible recovery of a journal must be assessed on an individual basis. About 40 years ago my Dad polished up one journal (engine still in) on a big International crane truck. It had a mishap in the previous ownership having been short of oil very briefly. The truck engine worked fine for the next 25 years, until he sold it. So Russell, don't give up before you find out where it's at. Another option if it's a case of a swap would be a Detroit 671 inline, seeing that's what they had before the Buda changeover. CAL can probably fill you in on more details. You mention your 8V92... that would make your dozer push LOL. Your final drives might not last too long then. 
Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ian Beale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 2024 at 8:36pm
Russel

Remember that until you take the sump off and look you don't know that it is the crank area at fault
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2024 at 9:35am
It appears the std. size rod bearing set in this link are correct for that engine if original to the tractor:


The engine number and the tractor number fit in the search criteria, but without seeing anything it is stated on visual findings only. Until measurements are known, nothing really to be done.

Stephens equipment has some partial items to help build a set, but nothing complete as per their website. I have a couple of other contacts that deal in NOS and good salvage but pricing is reflective of availability.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2024 at 2:47pm
Thanks 
You are all right dont give up yet i will take the sump off and have a look its very dry here at the moment i will wait until we get some rain as its so dusty and dozer in the paddock 
cheers 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Mar 2024 at 5:12pm
That's funny right there. Most in reference  to me start the process with the thought "that boy ain't right" so this is a change. 

Swear, I must be getting old.... 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2024 at 5:46pm
Hello
Well had some rain dust settled decided it was time to pull the sump of the engine . Once of all looked pretty good no discoloured caps no metal showing up so i decided to grab hold of rod ends and could move just a little side to side all felt good but no movement in number three so im thinking this is the problem it got dark so left it at that will have a go at pulling rod cap off today and see the result .
cheers   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Codger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 2024 at 9:24pm
Anxious to see the bearing shells. Not being loose is positive however you may have turned a rod bearing if it is tight and some times that is not too bad to repair.
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