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allis chalmers hd 16 dp buda 844 engine |
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Hi Codger
Had a quick look up the sump with inspection camera its hard to get a real good look but it seems that all the connecting rods have not been hot or discoloured but as said its pretty hard to get a good look . I drained the oil from filters unfortunately some water came out of the bottoms of them but oil is just black no silver . I will remove the filters when i get a chance and have a better look . The front drive shaft i grabbed with my had has i tinny bit of movement back and ford the uni near the front has quite a bit of movement in it pretty much bugged im still trying to work out the best way to get the shaft out . cheers
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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Water in the oil filter housing is usually not a good sign but for now let's say it's just condensate. It is still cause for concern however. For the testing phase we are in, the pump driveshaft does not need removed; only taken loose from the crankshaft and the shaft moved out of the way so it doesn't catch or hang up on something while/if the engine spins. We are simply eliminating that variable from the equation. Why was the dozer blade chained up in the first place? If you have a blown hose or something like that and the tractor was ran in that condition without hydraulic oil in the reservoir, the hydraulic pump very well could be no longer serviceable meaning locked up, or presenting the tightness experienced.
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Hi Codger
First thing i did was chain the blade up when engine seized as over time it drops down slowly and i thought if i keep it up would have a chance of towing dozer out of the paddock blade and rippers were working normal cheers
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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That is great news and clears one hurdle I was having. If you get that driveshaft loose at the crankshaft the hydraulic pump should turn quite easily by hand without much effort. You cannot spin it fast enough by hand to make any pressure so it should rotate easily without any tight spots really.
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Hi Codger
Just to let you know ive been a bit busy on farm and have not got back to dozer but will in the future i do appreciate the help from people just work comes first . You mentioned you had a 11b do you have any pictures ? cheers
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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No worries Russell, I work with farmers near every day of the week and understand fully. Kinda in the blood I know well. Yes,
I have an 11B with a 1975 build. This tractor is a bit special to me
personally as I actually drove it from the Allis-Chalmers finished
tractor staging area to the loading area when it was brand new. Which of
the two I drove that day to be shipped to the selling dealership, I
don't know. There were two 11B tractors going/shipping that day to El
Paso, IL and this is one of those two. Whether it was the first, or
second tractor shipped that day, I don't know. However a local
contractor purchased the machine and ran it several years to trading it
in on a Caterpillar product. A now good friend of mine purchased it in
1997 with then brand new tracks. I came along in 2020 delivering a new
farm tractor to him and conversation lead to this tractor. Investigation
proved it one of the two I drove that day in March 1976. Here's a couple photos: Pretty good ole girl and I'm really happy with her.
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Hi Codger
Thanks for the pictures i like your dozer and what a story to go with it. You were very lucky to come across it again . I purchased my dozer at a clearing sale it came with the angle blade but its original bull blade was sitting next to it and i did not buy it unfortunately i know the guy that did buy the bull blade and have asked him over the years if he would sell it but he will not its just siting there he does not have a dozer to put it on . Your pictures are inspiring me to get mine going again if possible . cheers |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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Hi Russell; Thank you for the compliments. I had many friends, and parents of friends working at the AC plant where these tractors were built so the progression was almost a natural for me. Being young at the time I really didn't get to operate much machinery but that particular day I was in the right place at the right time so to speak. Knowing many of those working, some of the rules were "skirted" to get a job done. That is what happened here when two trucks showed up late in the day to load and I jumped into the fray to save time. Here is another photo of the tractor without the risers on the front as it was built which were added by the prior owner. They are actually from a much older HD-11 series tractor: |
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Hi Codger
Its been a few weeks had a little time today and pulled the drive shaft of front of the engine. Hydraulic pump turns over buy hand drive shaft had a pretty bad universal joint notchy its not easy that to get shaft out not looking ford to putting back in . So i tried to turn engine over again with stop pulled out a few times it turned quite well then back to clicking starter to get it past tight spot i recon i heard the noise while turning over the tappet sounding noise it sounds like its coming from lower block up the front only a slow noise once every turn or so of the engine. Im convinced its a bearing or some thing inside the engine . If the engine has spun a bearing is it possible to linish a crank shaft while still in the block? has any one done this before ? I am thinking that to pull engine out and rebuild is probably not worth the effort or money pretty sad really cheers
Edited by russell - 19 Mar 2024 at 12:28am |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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Hi Russell; It is becoming to sound as if a rod bearing has spun so the belly pan and engine oil pan need to come off for further evaluation. Once access is gained you can pull rod caps and/or sometimes just tap with a small hammer the crankshaft end of the rod and see if there is any movement to know. As far as doing anything with the crankshaft still in the block; not really any longer. Years ago there were little machines built to do this work but not so much any longer. It sounds like the tractor may be done for if the engine is down. It is not hard to weld up a crankshaft journal and have it ground to proper dimension, or ground undersize if not too bad. Sometimes just a polishing of the journal will do the job but not usually if a rod is knocking from spinning a bearing. Regardless, going from your input it sounds as if the engine needs to come out to go much further. I don't know about parts availability on your tractor as never worked on one, (engine) but here they are difficult. A Cummins repower is probably best, but that is difficult in it's own right to make work. If me, I'd pull the belly and oil pans and taking a small hammer knock on the lower ends of the rods from side to side, and up and down to ascertain if there is any movement. Any movement detected between the rod and crankshaft journal and the rod cap would be removed, and a section of "plastigage" inserted, rod cap reinstalled and torqued, then the rod cap removed again to measure the "plastigage" for width. The width of this will show you the bearing clearance according to the included chart furnished. If the clearance is within specifications, a strip of fine grit sandpaper roll, (emery cloth) works well for removing any bearing debris and lightly polishing the crankshaft journal. If bearing clearance is excessive, the engine needs to come out I'm afraid for further repair. |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3786 |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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Yes, don't know the particulars of his engine but much of that can be sorted. I've modified main and rod bearings over the years to fit if they are the same dimensions internal, and external, so I don't rule anything out. Had on old Hercules we line bored and poured babbit fillers into, line bored that, and then installed bearings from a Cummins engine. Time, money, and an aggressive attitude can work in one's favor at times to save things. I thought the guy was nuts till I seen the mahogany Chris Craft boat this was from. I was then quite proud to be a part of the project.
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3786 |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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thanks, be interesting to know exactly what he's working with. Tractor and engine serial number would be very helpful.
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Ian Beale
Orange Level Joined: 03 Oct 2011 Location: New South Wales Points: 973 |
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A neighbour has had a HD 16 DP for quite a while, and a considerable knowledge of things Allis.
IIRC if the one here has the original engine it ought to be one of the late series
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Hi
Thanks again hd16dp -6087 16-05206 these are the numbers ive been told that the buda engine has the American made crankshaft wich are quite sort after as they fit to latter models with the Japanese cranks wich are prone to breaking . Ok my question is has any one had a spun conrod bearing and been able to just polish up the crank a bit and fit new bearings ? I guess the chances are slim i talked to a engine rebuilder and he has seen engines that are locked solid and crank is still ok luck of the draw i guess . cheers
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Doughd16b
Bronze Level Joined: 01 Sep 2022 Location: Nc Points: 28 |
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Hi, I have a 16dp and 16b, you can give me a call anytime and I will try to help in any way I can. 252 916 2927
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Ian Beale
Orange Level Joined: 03 Oct 2011 Location: New South Wales Points: 973 |
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Some more
"later ones would probably be ok but i would not turn up a 16000 or 21000 as they have smaller crank journals. much harder to find bearings for these 3 vavle head engines than the later 16000H- 25000 etc." In comments at And here on later cranks https://www.jensales.com/products/ep-914162-allis-buda-in-frame-engine-overhaul-kit-ac-mark-ii.html IIRC the usual distinction around Allis engines on calling them Buda's is the Lanova combustion system with injectors on the side of the head pointed horizontal across flat top pistons at the energy cell on the other side of the head. They gave that away around late 1950's and went to the injectors vertical in the head with varous versions.
Edited by Ian Beale - 19 Mar 2024 at 9:00pm |
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3786 |
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I concur I searched high and low and got educated on bearings back in 2011. ended up finding a set of bearings in Puerto Rico for the 3 valve 16000. There are a few places still around in the USA that can rebabbit obsolete bearings, was real close to going that route.
Edited by CAL(KS) - 20 Mar 2024 at 10:49am |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Thanks
Looks like i have to remove sump and have a look unfortunately if the crank needs grinding i think i will call it quits of to the scrap yard . I have a 260 scraper with a 892 detroit fitted to it not much use to the dozer very sad to let dozer go . cheers
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CAL(KS)
Orange Level Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: Chapman, KS Points: 3786 |
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when removing the oil pan, first remove the round cover under the suction screen assembly and take the screen assembly off or it will interfere when trying to get the pan down.
Edited by CAL(KS) - 21 Mar 2024 at 7:14am |
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Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20
Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Cal
Thanks makes sense hope its not to bad inside the crank shaft would it be nice if i could remove the bearing clean up the crank replace bearings some how i dont think so cheers |
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Eric B
Orange Level Joined: 09 Feb 2012 Location: British Columbi Points: 945 |
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I agree with what Codger said the other day... possible recovery of a journal must be assessed on an individual basis. About 40 years ago my Dad polished up one journal (engine still in) on a big International crane truck. It had a mishap in the previous ownership having been short of oil very briefly. The truck engine worked fine for the next 25 years, until he sold it. So Russell, don't give up before you find out where it's at. Another option if it's a case of a swap would be a Detroit 671 inline, seeing that's what they had before the Buda changeover. CAL can probably fill you in on more details. You mention your 8V92... that would make your dozer push . Your final drives might not last too long then.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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Ian Beale
Orange Level Joined: 03 Oct 2011 Location: New South Wales Points: 973 |
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Russel
Remember that until you take the sump off and look you don't know that it is the crank area at fault
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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It appears the std. size rod bearing set in this link are correct for that engine if original to the tractor: The engine number and the tractor number fit in the search criteria, but without seeing anything it is stated on visual findings only. Until measurements are known, nothing really to be done. Stephens equipment has some partial items to help build a set, but nothing complete as per their website. I have a couple of other contacts that deal in NOS and good salvage but pricing is reflective of availability.
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Thanks
You are all right dont give up yet i will take the sump off and have a look its very dry here at the moment i will wait until we get some rain as its so dusty and dozer in the paddock cheers
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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That's funny right there. Most in reference to me start the process with the thought "that boy ain't right" so this is a change.
Swear, I must be getting old....
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russell
Bronze Level Joined: 08 Feb 2024 Location: australia Points: 41 |
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Hello
Well had some rain dust settled decided it was time to pull the sump of the engine . Once of all looked pretty good no discoloured caps no metal showing up so i decided to grab hold of rod ends and could move just a little side to side all felt good but no movement in number three so im thinking this is the problem it got dark so left it at that will have a go at pulling rod cap off today and see the result . cheers
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Codger
Orange Level Joined: 23 Dec 2020 Location: Utopia Points: 2041 |
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Anxious to see the bearing shells. Not being loose is positive however you may have turned a rod bearing if it is tight and some times that is not too bad to repair.
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