Allis chalmers ca c axle swap

The shaft would look like this.

 

 

 http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9207&KW=ca+hand+clutch&title=hand-clutch

 

You may want to rethink your need to bypass the HC on your CA. It is not that difficult to do and, unless the ball cups on your HC are really pitted, not too expensive.

Bill Long makes a very good point (in the 2nd post) on grinding down the ears before reassembling a rebult HC. Those that I have rebuilt have had an 1/8" or larger gap when pressed open; I grind the ears so that there is approx.020" gap and have found that they work, and last, better.

 

However, it is your tractor. There are 2 ways to bypass the HC. The 1st, and least work and expense, is to drill thru the HC Pressure Plates (2-3 5/16" or 3/8" bolts should do the trick and bolt it together (altho some have removed the friction material and welded the pressure plates together). You don't need to mess around removing and replacing the pinion shaft.

The 2nd (and more difficult method) is to replace the 2 piece pinion shaft with a 1 piece shaft. I done this a very long time ago so my memory is a little fuzzy on it. I don't recall if we used a LH CA pinion shaft or a C pinion shaft, so make sure that the C pinion shaft is the correct length. I also don't recall having to remove the bull gear. Just removing the final, inner pinion shaft, HC, HC actuator and cover from the final over the outer pinion shaft. We used a big shop press and press the shaft inwards (altho, some have removed them with a BFH and soft steel drift pin). I recall that there was a key on the shaft that ate up the outer pinion seal when we did this, so you probably want to have new inner and outer seals for the pinion shaft should you go this route. You may also want to be prepared to replace the bearings and races.

Don't have any sketches available. Install the new friction material on the pressure plates (I like those available from ChrisCT rather than from AGCO, and new springs (if needed) and reassemble the clutch. Take the assembled clutch to your shop press and squeeze it down, if you have more than 0.020 (or so) space between the friction faces when fully squezed down, disassemble the clutch and grind metal off the 3 ears of the parts holding the pressure plates (mark the ears so you grind them square and evenly) so that you have minimal gap. The amount you have to grind off is determined by the amount of gap you have when you squeeze the clutch open the 1st time). Below is a pic of the assembled clutch. The ears you want to grind off are the ones holding the pressure plates together (cap screws pointing up in the picture.

 

I have found that it helps by squeezing the clutch together when tightening the cap screws. Hope this helps in lieu of a sketch.

Thank for the input I will take to machine shop and get it done. I have New linings, springs, bushings and all new balls. Ha Ha!  - AL