Allis chalmers ca c axle swap
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21687
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Topic: Allis chalmers ca c axle swap
Posted By: greg91gt
Subject: Allis chalmers ca c axle swap
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2010 at 5:59pm
| What do you have to swap, I was going to swap the hole housing and everything but the wheels r different 5 lug to a 6 lug so then I was going to swap out the wheel axle shaft but the bull gear on the c has a big nut holding it i'n and the ca has snap rings any help is greatly appreciated |
Replies:
Posted By: greg91gt
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2010 at 7:26pm
| What I am trying to do is replace the hand clutch side of a ca with the right side of a c |
Posted By: greg91gt
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2010 at 8:54pm
| Anyone |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2010 at 8:56pm
|
I was under the impression all you swap was the output shaft from the differential. Do you have any CA clutch parts you want to get rid of?
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: greg91gt
Date Posted: 02 Dec 2010 at 9:29pm
| is that also called the bull shaft and if so how do i get it out? |
Posted By: greg91gt
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:09am
| TTT |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 8:50am
|
The correct name for the shaft would be the pinion shaft. It is the upper shaft that enters the transmission. The actualy final drives will bolt to the transmussion but if you bolted one only it would stager the rear tires . The tractor would move around but you wouldn't be able to do much with it.
The shaft would look like this.
 |
Posted By: pumpkin man
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 10:08am
| find a shaft from the left side of a C A |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 10:11am
|
Pumkin man, from what I was told, the left side of a CA has the same shaft as both C shafts.
------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Brian Jasper co. Ia
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 10:14am
|
The tricky part is getting the brake drum off. They can be really rusted in place. The axle clutch can also be tricky to get off the pinion if it's rusted in place I'm told. I rebuilt the hand clutch on my CA and found it was pretty easy. The parts are available last I knew. I'd put the springs in it too. Mine had almost 1/2 inch difference in height old compared to new. If you don't care if the clutch works or not, some folks pull it out and drill a couple holes and bolt it together and put it back. ------------- "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford |
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 10:16am
|
You did not mention why you feel the need to bypass the Hand Clutch on your CA. The HC is what makes the CA a vert versatile machine. There have been several posts here on rebuilding a slipping HC. Two of them are:
http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9207&KW=ca+hand+clutch&title=hand-clutch - http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9207&KW=ca+hand+clutch&title=hand-clutch
http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10188&KW=ca+hand+clutch&title=ca-hand-clutch-parts - http://www.allischalmers.com/new/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10188&KW=ca+hand+clutch&title=ca-hand-clutch-parts
You may want to rethink your need to bypass the HC on your CA. It is not that difficult to do and, unless the ball cups on your HC are really pitted, not too expensive.
Bill Long makes a very good point (in the 2nd post) on grinding down the ears before reassembling a rebult HC. Those that I have rebuilt have had an 1/8" or larger gap when pressed open; I grind the ears so that there is approx.020" gap and have found that they work, and last, better.
However, it is your tractor. There are 2 ways to bypass the HC. The 1st, and least work and expense, is to drill thru the HC Pressure Plates (2-3 5/16" or 3/8" bolts should do the trick and bolt it together (altho some have removed the friction material and welded the pressure plates together). You don't need to mess around removing and replacing the pinion shaft.
The 2nd (and more difficult method) is to replace the 2 piece pinion shaft with a 1 piece shaft. I done this a very long time ago so my memory is a little fuzzy on it. I don't recall if we used a LH CA pinion shaft or a C pinion shaft, so make sure that the C pinion shaft is the correct length. I also don't recall having to remove the bull gear. Just removing the final, inner pinion shaft, HC, HC actuator and cover from the final over the outer pinion shaft. We used a big shop press and press the shaft inwards (altho, some have removed them with a BFH and soft steel drift pin). I recall that there was a key on the shaft that ate up the outer pinion seal when we did this, so you probably want to have new inner and outer seals for the pinion shaft should you go this route. You may also want to be prepared to replace the bearings and races. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 11:43am
| Greg - You mention grinding down the ears. I have my HC apart now and would like to make this improvement before reinstalling. Possibly you can provide a sketch or picture, Thanks - AL |
Posted By: GregLawlerMinn
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 3:55pm
|
Al
Don't have any sketches available. Install the new friction material on the pressure plates (I like those available from ChrisCT rather than from AGCO, and new springs (if needed) and reassemble the clutch. Take the assembled clutch to your shop press and squeeze it down, if you have more than 0.020 (or so) space between the friction faces when fully squezed down, disassemble the clutch and grind metal off the 3 ears of the parts holding the pressure plates (mark the ears so you grind them square and evenly) so that you have minimal gap. The amount you have to grind off is determined by the amount of gap you have when you squeeze the clutch open the 1st time). Below is a pic of the assembled clutch. The ears you want to grind off are the ones holding the pressure plates together (cap screws pointing up in the picture.
 I have found that it helps by squeezing the clutch together when tightening the cap screws. Hope this helps in lieu of a sketch. ------------- What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers. Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2. With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC |
Posted By: B26240
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 4:18pm
| Al Ive rebuilt two of these and I reface the surface's the disc contacts and then do as Greg said to the ears only do with the lathe also. Also springs are critical check there hight HTH |
Posted By: ALinIL
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 7:34pm
|
Greg and B26240
Thank for the input I will take to machine shop and get it done. I have New linings, springs, bushings and all new balls. Ha Ha! - AL
|
Posted By: greg91gt
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2010 at 8:58pm
| Thank you guys for the replies I ended up bolting it together, I talked to a guy today that faxed me a drill template on where to drill and bolt the clutch together. |
Posted By: stahlhouse
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2017 at 8:27pm
| dick do you have any of these axles? what is this axle off of in this picture? |
Posted By: Dick L
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2017 at 8:42pm
That picture would have been of C pinion shafts from years ago. |
stahlhouse wrote: