7060 powershift valve removal

Back again with more issues on my 76 7060 this time I believe with doing some research on this forum etc that the snap ring as broken/came off on my inching valve in the powershift valve. Out of the blue when moving it in and out of the shop for maintenance the high and low started to grind when trying to put it in range. It’s not every time sometimes it will go into range but other times I have to shut the tractor off. The clutch/inching pedal also feels different like it’s releasing earlier than it did. I think it’s probably safe to assume that the snap ring is my issue. It was fine before and is suddenly having this issue.

I guess my question is there any tricks or advice to successfully removing the valve and repairing snap ring? Got it in the shop and removed the auxiliary fuel tank and cleaned up dirt etc around the valve. Thought I might seek some advice before removing and waiting on parts . Thanks!

tbran wrote: etch the adjustment on the cable linkage bracket at the top so as to put back in the same adjustment. We loosen and pull back the aux tank - but you have it off and makes it ez to R&R. You will have to have 2 gaskets and replace the O rings on the shifter rod. TAKE A PICTURE where the 2 stops are that will have to be removed. Since the body is aluminum we always torque the body back to the plate - can't remember the torque - sorry - at home away from books. Also look at the detent roller brg and spring - check for wear - the springs will wear and break. Look at the 'rack' and check for detent peg wear to the point the valves will not open. If so replace or find a better used one.

Will do. Thanks!

DrAllis wrote: Whenever I repaired one of those snap ring failures, I only fixed them once. I assembled the pieces, compressed the spring and clamped it with a needle nose vice grips. Then, spot welded the snap ring groove so it is a permanent fix. Will never fail again.

Hey Dr got my valve off and torn apart and the snap ring is where it should be. It appears to have some play in it when you move the spring up and down by hand. Any thoughts?

This much I can promise you, someday the snap ring will break. If it was mine, the snap ring gets removed and a spot of weld replaces it. The diagnosis wasn't accurate, as a broken snap ring is ALL THE TIME no trans brake. As Lynn said, make sure all forks are in good condition. While the valve is off, you should check every clutch pack you can see (especailly the rear one) for equal spacing of the clutch discs and separator plates. Un-equal means a warped disc.

Edited by DrAllis - 09 Feb 2024 at 9:32am

I remembering three different detent mechanisms over the 10 year run of PSTranny's.

Yes,friction disc,separator plate, and wave spring.

Sorry for any confusion, I believe that it does only use the one spool stop on that tractor. A straight 7000 uses two and some of the parts break down pictures on the Agco web site show two for the larger series and yet only list one required.

Got the valve back on etc, and when putting the inching spool bracket back on I noticed it doesn’t set on the spool valve rod completely, its on the edge of it, was wondering if it was supposed to be like this or is my bracket somehow bent? https://photos.app.goo.gl/w4sBuDdefvhWDcX89
https://photos.app.goo.gl/r594PByuo7o4qUeV8
So I went ahead and got it back together completely minus Auxiliary fuel tank and tried to see what it would do and as expected it’s the same results grinds going into both high and low. But I could get it to not grind by shifting it into reverse first?
Tractor also is creeping when in the gear selector 1-6 is in neutral and it’s in high or low range.
With the valve off I couldn’t really tell if any plates were warped or not but I’m no expert. Is there anything else I can try before splitting it etc? Adjustments? I just find it odd that one day it worked fine and then the next went to move it and it randomly has these issues.

Edited by AC 426 power - 13 Feb 2024 at 3:52pm

Theres a procedure in the service manual to adjust the inching pedal or foot clutch if you want to call it that
I started at the beginning and did every step. Does require a pressure guage on the brake port to check pressure at certian places in pedal travel. It works perfectly now

The end of that spool is not flat. It has a dome shape, so it is a little higher in the center of the spool. If the bracket was riding on the edge instead of the center, it probably wasn't pushing the spool in as much as it should when applying the transmission brake. A gauge on the brake pressure test port would have verified this. Yes, there is a sequence of adjustments that should be checked when the valve body has been removed.

Don't feel bad,that dinky snap ring is the usual suspect. I would have went there too.