7060 powershift valve removal
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=199548
Printed Date: 11 Nov 2025 at 1:11am Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7060 powershift valve removal
Posted By: AC 426 power
Subject: 7060 powershift valve removal
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2024 at 1:28pm
Back again with more issues on my 76 7060 this time I believe with doing some research on this forum etc that the snap ring as broken/came off on my inching valve in the powershift valve. Out of the blue when moving it in and out of the shop for maintenance the high and low started to grind when trying to put it in range. It’s not every time sometimes it will go into range but other times I have to shut the tractor off. The clutch/inching pedal also feels different like it’s releasing earlier than it did. I think it’s probably safe to assume that the snap ring is my issue. It was fine before and is suddenly having this issue.
I guess my question is there any tricks or advice to successfully removing the valve and repairing snap ring? Got it in the shop and removed the auxiliary fuel tank and cleaned up dirt etc around the valve. Thought I might seek some advice before removing and waiting on parts . Thanks!
|
Replies:
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 29 Jan 2024 at 8:34pm
etch the adjustment on the cable linkage bracket at the top so as to put back in the same adjustment. We loosen and pull back the aux tank - but you have it off and makes it ez to R&R. You will have to have 2 gaskets and replace the O rings on the shifter rod. TAKE A PICTURE where the 2 stops are that will have to be removed. Since the body is aluminum we always torque the body back to the plate - can't remember the torque - sorry - at home away from books. Also look at the detent roller brg and spring - check for wear - the springs will wear and break. Look at the 'rack' and check for detent peg wear to the point the valves will not open. If so replace or find a better used one.
------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2024 at 4:27pm
tbran wrote:
etch the adjustment on the cable linkage bracket at the top so as to put back in the same adjustment. We loosen and pull back the aux tank - but you have it off and makes it ez to R&R. You will have to have 2 gaskets and replace the O rings on the shifter rod. TAKE A PICTURE where the 2 stops are that will have to be removed. Since the body is aluminum we always torque the body back to the plate - can't remember the torque - sorry - at home away from books. Also look at the detent roller brg and spring - check for wear - the springs will wear and break. Look at the 'rack' and check for detent peg wear to the point the valves will not open. If so replace or find a better used one. |
Will do. Thanks!
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Jan 2024 at 5:28pm
|
Whenever I repaired one of those snap ring failures, I only fixed them once. I assembled the pieces, compressed the spring and clamped it with a needle nose vice grips. Then, spot welded the snap ring groove so it is a permanent fix. Will never fail again.
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 6:00pm
DrAllis wrote:
Whenever I repaired one of those snap ring failures, I only fixed them once. I assembled the pieces, compressed the spring and clamped it with a needle nose vice grips. Then, spot welded the snap ring groove so it is a permanent fix. Will never fail again. | Hey Dr got my valve off and torn apart and the snap ring is where it should be. It appears to have some play in it when you move the spring up and down by hand. Any thoughts?
|
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 08 Feb 2024 at 9:26pm
|
Be sure that none of the spool stop forks has broken off a piece and lodged somewhere in the spools.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2024 at 7:58am
|
This much I can promise you, someday the snap ring will break. If it was mine, the snap ring gets removed and a spot of weld replaces it. The diagnosis wasn't accurate, as a broken snap ring is ALL THE TIME no trans brake. As Lynn said, make sure all forks are in good condition. While the valve is off, you should check every clutch pack you can see (especailly the rear one) for equal spacing of the clutch discs and separator plates. Un-equal means a warped disc.
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2024 at 9:54am
|
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3w29VoZ7rFSgRppE9" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/3w29VoZ7rFSgRppE9 here’s some pictures of my situation, the detent mechanism and what not look totally different from what my shop manual has and what ago parts diagram shows for both a 7060 and 8000 series, I thought this was interesting, and there is a picture of a new snap ring and the old one, probably will do the weld fix as dr allis suggested, old one is on the right, and for whatever reason mine only had one stop/fork? Will dig into it deeper this afternoon.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 09 Feb 2024 at 10:06am
|
I remembering three different detent mechanisms over the 10 year run of PSTranny's.
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 3:11pm
https://photos.app.goo.gl/d1Q1dCzRErKkRv1o6" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/d1Q1dCzRErKkRv1o6
I’m guessing this is spring and is supposed to be wavy so to speak? And the clutch discs and separator plates are what is just beyond this?
|
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 3:23pm
|
Yes,friction disc,separator plate, and wave spring.
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 6:47pm
Lynn Marshall wrote:
Be sure that none of the spool stop forks has broken off a piece and lodged somewhere in the spools. | Is it supposed to have more then one spool stop? Shop manual only mentions one at the Modulator valve and mine only had one when dissembling. Didn’t find any evidence of another either. The one I removed seems to be in good shape. https://photos.app.goo.gl/jScagLseZrTjDWai9" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/jScagLseZrTjDWai9
|
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 9:44pm
|
Sorry for any confusion, I believe that it does only use the one spool stop on that tractor. A straight 7000 uses two and some of the parts break down pictures on the Agco web site show two for the larger series and yet only list one required.
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 10 Feb 2024 at 9:52pm
Lynn Marshall wrote:
Sorry for any confusion, I believe that it does only use the one spool stop on that tractor. A straight 7000 uses two and some of the parts break down pictures on the Agco web site show two for the larger series and yet only list one required. | I gotcha, didn’t really think not having a second stop was my issue anyways considering the tractor has been fine for 14 years until it wasn’t. But wanted to make sure, thanks for clarification. Going to put it the valve back together and see what happens.
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2024 at 3:07pm
Got the valve back on etc, and when putting the inching spool bracket back on I noticed it doesn’t set on the spool valve rod completely, its on the edge of it, was wondering if it was supposed to be like this or is my bracket somehow bent? https://photos.app.goo.gl/w4sBuDdefvhWDcX89" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/w4sBuDdefvhWDcX89 https://photos.app.goo.gl/r594PByuo7o4qUeV8" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/r594PByuo7o4qUeV8 So I went ahead and got it back together completely minus Auxiliary fuel tank and tried to see what it would do and as expected it’s the same results grinds going into both high and low. But I could get it to not grind by shifting it into reverse first? Tractor also is creeping when in the gear selector 1-6 is in neutral and it’s in high or low range. With the valve off I couldn’t really tell if any plates were warped or not but I’m no expert. Is there anything else I can try before splitting it etc? Adjustments? I just find it odd that one day it worked fine and then the next went to move it and it randomly has these issues.
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2024 at 5:58pm
|
Shifting into reverse is pretty much what the tranny brake does, applies the reverse clutch and another forward clutch. Creeping (to a degree) is normal with cold oil and fast engine speeds with low range being the worst. One of the test plugs on the valve body is for the brake and I think brake pressure is 30 ?? psi with inching pedal to the floor.
|
Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2024 at 6:10pm
Theres a procedure in the service manual to adjust the inching pedal or foot clutch if you want to call it that I started at the beginning and did every step. Does require a pressure guage on the brake port to check pressure at certian places in pedal travel. It works perfectly now
------------- 1984 80780 1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2024 at 7:19pm
Welp I think my problem is solved. I believe the inching valve bracket got bent on a previous repair I had made when I removed the tank to replace a hydraulic line, long story short I bent the bracket mechanism back out and it now shifts into high and low with no grinding and all other problems are gone as well. Didn’t drive it out of shop yet but immediate improvement after tweaking bracket. Will post Again once I get it out and about. Can’t say I regret removing valve though as the snap ring did not look healthy. Better now than in the field this spring. Thanks everyone for all the help!
|
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2024 at 8:08pm
|
The end of that spool is not flat. It has a dome shape, so it is a little higher in the center of the spool. If the bracket was riding on the edge instead of the center, it probably wasn't pushing the spool in as much as it should when applying the transmission brake. A gauge on the brake pressure test port would have verified this. Yes, there is a sequence of adjustments that should be checked when the valve body has been removed.
|
Posted By: AC 426 power
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2024 at 8:18pm
Lynn Marshall wrote:
The end of that spool is not flat. It has a dome shape, so it is a little higher in the center of the spool. If the bracket was riding on the edge instead of the center, it probably wasn't pushing the spool in as much as it should when applying the transmission brake. A gauge on the brake pressure test port would have verified this. Yes, there is a sequence of adjustments that should be checked when the valve body has been removed. | Yeah I definitely need to get smarter In diagnosing a problem, my problem is I read too much and jump to conclusions. Snap ring just seemed like the obvious culprit.
|
Posted By: Lynn Marshall
Date Posted: 13 Feb 2024 at 9:16pm
|
Don't feel bad,that dinky snap ring is the usual suspect. I would have went there too.
|
|