7020 Excess Smoke Followup- Ran it on a Dyno Today

What "updates" did he say the injection pump and injectors need? Boost number seems low to me.

not sure either about updates? For 132 hp it should have had 13-15 psi I'd guess, so at the 132 hp was it smoking heavily? That is only 9 over stock of 123, so I can't see that adding up. There's a problem somewhere.

From what I've seen/heard, yes, the Allis's tend to smoke. Especially the combines. 

I just re-read your earlier post, so that scraps my message about bird nest in air intake/filter.

Edited by AC7060IL - 08 Feb 2018 at 8:02pm

Well, this is about enough of this posters 7020 engine complaints. I have taken the time to brush off the dust on my 7010/7020 Service Manual. From page A-137 are the dynamometer test specs for a model 7020 tractor engine.  NOMINAL PTO HP & RPM - 117.5 PTO HP @ 2300 ENG RPM ----- MAX INTAKE BOOST PRESSURE - 24 PSI -----  MAXIMUM EXHAUST TEMP -1200 DEGREES F* ------  TORQUE CURVE  (lugged down to)--- 106 PTO HP @ 1800 RPM WITH 19 PSI BOOST AND 1350 DEGREES F* EXHAUST.     These are the facts, like it or not.  "Nominal" PTO HP means that they may have been rated at 123 max HP at Nebraska test, but the average HP may have been a little less on some and a little more on others. If you tested ten tractors at the same time, all ten would be a little different. Max boost of 24 psi means maximum, but a number of 20 ish would be very normal and 10 sure as he77 isn't enough. Cooler ambient temps always make boost numbers higher. Normal boost numbers are usually rated on 70 degree ambient temps.   If the turbocharger shows no signs of any black paint on the compressor housing, it has been replaced with something. The turbo MUST be replaced with the exact CORRECT replacement for the engine to perform to these rated specs. They aren't like a loaf of bread....any will do. They are spec'd to an exact configuration.  Your technician might be a great guy, but he is somewhat ignorant on this 7020 engine when he says the boost is just fine. By the way, even running this engine when you know you are getting coolant in the engine oil is really asking for a hole to be punched in the block. I'm putting my Service book back on the shelf.

20 degree ambient temps with SUMMER FUEL in the tank would yield more HP but, with your low boost numbers I'd suspect he has an old M&W dyno which traditionally read 20 or so HP high at that HP range.

You guessed right. He has an old M&W dyno, and I am running the 540 PTO. As for fuel, it's whatever the FS driver filled the farm barrel with in November.

What's the appropriate part number for the turbocharger?

DrAllis wrote: By the way, even running this engine when you know you are getting coolant in the engine oil is really asking for a hole to be punched in the block. I'm putting my Service book back on the shelf.

Very true but wasn't that another poster on a different 7020? Or am I just confused?

i dynode my 7020 a year ago it was turning out 126 hp at 1000 pto rpm and boost at around 19 psi, turbo had a nice audible whistle to it, not a lot of smoke, its all stock no tweaking of the pump. my opinion on those cheap turbos on ebay and what ive been told is to stay away and go with a good oem turbo bout $900 from agco WITH warranty!!

I can get new or reman turbos that are genuine Garret/AirResearch, not the cheap chinese ebay stuff that flys apart, and fills the engine with shrapnel. Does this have a muffler or straight pipe? If a muffler was plugged/broken inside, it could cause the issues. The pump being turned up 25% should not make it smoke going down the road. Going down the road by itself should not have loaded it any more than about 30 to 40 hp worth I'd guess. When the pump is turned up, you won't actually see that until you put more than 120hp load against it. There is some reason the engine is not getting the air moved thorough it like it should. Or the timing could be wrong, but it would be hard to start. I'm in N IL too. Where are you located, and who was the shop you took to dyno? I may know them.

In my 2013 Shoup catalog, they show their part number AC8058 turbo fits AC 200, 7000, 7020 and combines L and M2, replaces 4007187 or 4008214. $689.00

Gerald J.

There's an intake manifold leak. If I spray ether at the gasket while cranking the motor, it will fire with the fuel shut-off pushed in. So, hopefully it's just going to cost me a gasket and having the manifold looked at by a machine shop.

I'd say if there's any play in the turbo like you explained I'd think it needs replaced. Especially if it's hitting the housing.

Oh, I forgot, how many guys do you know that knows how to adjust the valves? Not very many I imagine.

As you correct these known issues (intake gaskets, turbo, valve adjustments, timing), it would be interesting to watch how it's dyno & boost perform differently per each fix. So maybe without fixing anything, drive it the hour to dyno. Dyno it again for a new unfixed baseline. Then wrench-in intake gaskets and dyno again. Then wrench-in new turbo and dyno again. Then wrench-in valve adjustments and dyno again. Then wrench-in timing and dyno again.

I know right, I asked for too much. PS- Take welding gloves to safely handle hot engine components while wrenching on it. #@&!!