210 engine rebuild vid

I assume you all have seen the tractor running again,wish him good luck this time.

Think pump has to be on test stand to air time it. There you have the degree wheel to tell where you are. My 220 had to be air timed after changing shoes for increased fuel delivery. This timing info needs kept safe because you can't use original crank degrees mounting/setting timing.

Just watched the last video, the tractor sounds good but I’m also quite disappointed with the high thirty’s oil pressure. I would have expected closer to 50 psi on a full rebuild. Heck, my 4K plus hr XT runs 35- 40 psi at 2k rpm after she is warmed up. Maybe the 426 is totally different than a 301 when it comes to oil psi.

Yes sorry I watched them all to. Guess I didn’t pick up that it was suppose to be a comedy. I’d want to make sure it ran before I made fun.

well, 20% over on a 210 pump is just a little over stock for a 220, which is the same engine. 20% over on roller setting is no surprise, but there was no way of knowing how far down the torque screw was set. But, the more you open up the roller setting on a RM pump, the sooner injection begins, when it is loaded to max pump delivery. Now, watching the vids of it pulling the little chisel, it was in no way working it to even stock full load, would guess it was taking about 100hp to pull it. Either the mark itself was placed in the wrong spot, or the retainer was put on completely wrong, which would be off a long way. 

He said something to the effect that they sent it to a different shop and he was disappointed that they just tore into it, without checking what the previous position was.

The actual injection timing wasn't 180 degrees off. The pumps timing mark was approximately 180 degrees off, and more like 170 or 190 degrees off, putting the actual timing say maybe (a guess) 10 degrees advanced, which would put the spray pattern just up and out of the pistons mexican hat bowl. Being it was 180ish degrees off on the mark, caused them to have to "time" the pump on number 6 cylinder instead of number 1 cylinder. If it would have been EXACTLY 180 degrees off, timing on number 6 would have been fine.   Injpumped said there are 24 splines on the governor weight retainer where the "mark" is scribed. 360 degrees divided by 24 splines is 15 pump degrees per spline, which would transfer to 30 crankshaft degrees for one spline off.  Doesn't seem possible that it could have been that far off. It should have started terrible at that setting, unless I'm figuring it wrong and it was only 7 1/2 degrees advanced instead of 30 degrees ??

Edited by DrAllis - 12 Mar 2023 at 6:56pm

New rod bolts-good.    Rotating rods because of slotted rod bearings-good.    Timing the injection pump correctly to #1 cylinder-really good.      Inj pump 20% overfueled only overfuels if the engine was loaded heavier. Shouldn't have normally been an issue EXCEPT if the pump was out of time, which it must have been.     Sleeve cavitation erosion won't happen because of looser piston skirt clearance. It happens because of wrong coolant without proper additives. Heavy Duty diesel coolant is the only correct type to use. Advanced pump timing (which we now think it was) would aggravate cavitation erosion, YES.       Valve guide seals, I never have and never will use. I don't care what they do. Both intake and exhaust valve guides are pressurized from underneath from turbocharging and don't need those.     Piston skirt clearance at .005" is by far better than .004" or .003" or .0025" which are all within specs.  D-21 specs of .007" to .009" would make me sleep much better at night.    Hope things go well for them this time around and I'm sure it will. Time to get farming !!!    Torquing head bolts under the rocker arm shaft isn't a problem when you have the correct special wrench to do it with.

Yes the service manual said the orange oring was a silicone type and the black were buna n I believe.

DrAllis wrote: Diesel timing lights just verify the advance is working. I trust them for nothing else.

Diesel timing lights just verify the advance is working. I trust them for nothing else.

So, we don't actually know how the wrong timing mark positioning in the injection pump was discovered, do we ?? Did Jim's notice with the injection pumps marks aligned in the window it didn't have the rotor discharge hole showing at the #1 port ?? or did the whole injection system get completely installed and then the engine wouldn't start ??  At some point Jim's had to figure out the pumps lines were approx 180 degrees off. Maybe they made a phone call to their pump rebuilder and were told " well, just time it on #6 and it will be fine" ?? which of course would have been OK (on a DB pump) or maybe not OK (on a DC pump) ?? which if that was the case, that would have been poor advice to Jim's.

The pump timing itself wasn't 180 off. The actual pump timing must have been 10 degrees advanced and that is just a guess, but it was advanced, not retarded. The timing mark inside the pump was 180 off, or not really but it was 170 or 190 degrees off. Like Ed said, the splines on the timing mark part aren't exactly 180 off. So, anyway, they timed it on cylinder number 6, which if it was exactly 180 off, would have been fine. If it was a pump off of a 180 thru 200 tractor, it is exactly 180 degrees different because the timing mark inside the pump only assemble two ways...correct or 180 off. The D21/210/220 can assemble 23 different ways, I think. Anyway it is splined so many choices.