185 hydraulic leaking into Transmission

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   I've got a 185 that had the same issue 8 years ago of hydraulic fluid leaking into the transmission.   Had all the seals replaced and now it's doing it again.   It was a pricey fix.  I remember some people saying to just tie the drain lines together and it will equalize itself.  I use the tractor solely for loader work moving hay bales.  Is this a viable fix or should I send it back to the shop.   I put about 40 hours a year on the old girl.
Thanks Tim

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TimZ(TX) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Schulenburg, TX Points: 258	Post Options Post Reply Quote TimZ(TX) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 185 hydraulic leaking into Transmission Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 1:01pm
	I've got a 185 that had the same issue 8 years ago of hydraulic fluid leaking into the transmission. Had all the seals replaced and now it's doing it again. It was a pricey fix. I remember some people saying to just tie the drain lines together and it will equalize itself. I use the tractor solely for loader work moving hay bales. Is this a viable fix or should I send it back to the shop. I put about 40 hours a year on the old girl. Thanks Tim
	2-B's,CA,D15,D17,160,2-185's 8010

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20873	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 5:11pm
	That's unfortunate. The repair, if done correctly, should have lasted much longer than that. A "jumper hose" would be better than what you have going on right now. What I don't like about transmission oil (with metal in it from gear grinding) being drained into the hydraulic sump (under the suction screen) is the possibility of unclean oil going thru the hydraulic pump without filtering. There is always a chance of something large enough to jam the hydraulic pump and break the camshaft in the engine. If the extra transmission oil is returned thru the PTO box drain plug, that would at least insure the oil gets strained thru the suction screen before going to the hydraulic pump. I would suggest giving the hydraulic system dipstick an overhaul. Remove the cotter pin and let the 3/8" ball fall out of the tube. Throw them both away. Take a rubber tipped air blow gun, pinch the cotter pin holes shut and see if you can blow air up thru the tube to the vent on top of the dipstick. If this vent is plugged (and MANY are) it will allow pressure to be built up inside the hydraulic compartment, especially with a loader. This just adds to the oil transfer issue you are experiencing. If the vent is plugged, melt the brass holding the cap on and remove it. Dig out the steel wool AND the perforated washer under the steel wool. Clean everything replace and blow thru the tube to be sure the vent works. Re-braze the cap back on and recheck for free air movement.

TimZ(TX) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Silver Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Schulenburg, TX Points: 258	Post Options Post Reply Quote TimZ(TX) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jan 2025 at 11:28am
	Thanks Doc, I'll give it try. I may end up running it back to the shop later in the spring. She's a good ole tractor, but has a lot of hours on it. I need to get through the winter feeding then decide.
	2-B's,CA,D15,D17,160,2-185's 8010

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 20873	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jan 2025 at 11:47am
	If you can live with running the Power Director in LOW side all the time, the transfer problem should be less.

tbran Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3359	Post Options Post Reply Quote tbran Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 8:56am
	The power director 'snout' sticks in the housing that supplies oil to either the low range or high range . The seals on the snout are designed to weep or leak to lubricate the clutch cast sealing rings and provide a cushion of oil the same way a crankshaft floats in a main bearing. The small leakage increases with age. The leakage either goes out the front or the rear. As the good Doctor stated using the clutch in low range causes the leak to go to the front and drip into the hydraulic compartment. When the seal in the housing fails, the oil goes into the rear or transmission compartment. There is a hole in the bottom of the seal retainer that is supposed to relieve the pressure on the seal. Some service manuals - including AC's- incorrectly show the seal's position with the open or wire side to the rear. We were taught to place the seal in - open side to the front - and seat. Prior to installing the seal drill the drain hold out a couple of bit sizes larger and then after the seal is installed if the seal lip obstructs the hole drill it out as well. Never had a repeat failure unless the clutch had a come-apart and ruining the housing.
	When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..

WF owner Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4749	Post Options Post Reply Quote WF owner Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Jan 2025 at 9:29am
	Good information! This should go to Knowledge Based.