185 hydraulic leaking into Transmission
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=204944
Printed Date: 15 Jan 2025 at 8:58am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 185 hydraulic leaking into Transmission
Posted By: TimZ(TX)
Subject: 185 hydraulic leaking into Transmission
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 1:01pm
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I've got a 185 that had the same issue 8 years ago of hydraulic fluid leaking into the transmission. Had all the seals replaced and now it's doing it again. It was a pricey fix. I remember some people saying to just tie the drain lines together and it will equalize itself. I use the tractor solely for loader work moving hay bales. Is this a viable fix or should I send it back to the shop. I put about 40 hours a year on the old girl.
Thanks Tim
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2-B's,CA,D15,D17,160,2-185's 8010
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Replies:
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 14 Jan 2025 at 5:11pm
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That's unfortunate. The repair, if done correctly, should have lasted much longer than that. A "jumper hose" would be better than what you have going on right now. What I don't like about transmission oil (with metal in it from gear grinding) being drained into the hydraulic sump (under the suction screen) is the possibility of unclean oil going thru the hydraulic pump without filtering. There is always a chance of something large enough to jam the hydraulic pump and break the camshaft in the engine. If the extra transmission oil is returned thru the PTO box drain plug, that would at least insure the oil gets strained thru the suction screen before going to the hydraulic pump. I would suggest giving the hydraulic system dipstick an overhaul. Remove the cotter pin and let the 3/8" ball fall out of the tube. Throw them both away. Take a rubber tipped air blow gun, pinch the cotter pin holes shut and see if you can blow air up thru the tube to the vent on top of the dipstick. If this vent is plugged (and MANY are) it will allow pressure to be built up inside the hydraulic compartment, especially with a loader. This just adds to the oil transfer issue you are experiencing. If the vent is plugged, melt the brass holding the cap on and remove it. Dig out the steel wool AND the perforated washer under the steel wool. Clean everything replace and blow thru the tube to be sure the vent works. Re-braze the cap back on and recheck for free air movement.
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