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john2189 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Minerva,Ohio
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 Topic: Allis B Starter rod
Posted: 17 Jun 2026 at 10:21am |
What is missing that holds the rod up to the starter button? It is very hard to push the rod when sitting on the seat. If you are standing next to it, you can hold the rod up. 
Edited by john2189 - 17 Jun 2026 at 10:43am
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Jackson Cnty,GA
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Posted: 17 Jun 2026 at 11:57am |
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The rod needs to moved slightly forward which in effect moves it slightly upward. Right now you have a straight line push against the lever that pushes on the starter button. You may need to drill a small hole in the rod and insert a cotter pin that will prevent the rod from retracting as much through the L bracket that mounts it to the torque tube. If that cotter pin is already there you can make a longer L bracket to accomplish this adjustment. HTH
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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john2189
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Posted: 17 Jun 2026 at 12:17pm |
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Thanks, I can see what you’re saying.
There is no cotter pin by the bracket . I don’t know if it has a hole or not. I will look tomorrow when I’m at the property.
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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john2189
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Posted: 17 Jun 2026 at 5:38pm |
  Found this on fleabay. Where does the spring go? Mine does not have a spring. I can’t find any pictures of the rod the way it is supposed to be.
Edited by john2189 - 17 Jun 2026 at 5:42pm
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 17 Jun 2026 at 6:23pm |
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I'll go look at mine in a while and get back to you. Kinda wonder if it's related the bell crank thingy on the starter but will verify
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Hubert (Ga)engine7
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Posted: 17 Jun 2026 at 6:40pm |
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The spring goes between the 90 degree bend and the L bracket. It pushes the rod back away from the starter. I would use washer and cotter pin forward of the bracket to keep the rod from coming back too far.
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Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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plummerscarin
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Posted: 17 Jun 2026 at 8:54pm |
  Here is mine. It looks to me like your rod/lever setup lays a little flatter than mine. I suppose the washer and extra cotter pin acts as a stop so as to prevent the straight line push if you get my meaning
Edited by plummerscarin - 17 Jun 2026 at 9:02pm
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john2189
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Posted: 17 Jun 2026 at 9:45pm |
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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HoughMade
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 12:09pm |
Interesting. On my B, the button is on top and you pull the rod. Probably because mine is a later B. Seems like the configuration I have has better mechanical advantage. 
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1951 B
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john2189
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 1:15pm |
 HoughMade wrote:
Interesting. On my B, the button is on top and you pull the rod. Probably because mine is a later B. Seems like the configuration I have has better mechanical advantage.
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Ok I remember seeing one like that. I think it has a “dimple “ on the bottom of the gas tank for clearance.
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 1:40pm |
My CA has the dimple in the gas tank to allow clearance for the pull-type starter rod and switch.
The CA replaced the C but the Model B continued in production, I wonder if they changed both models to the pull-type rod at the same time. In my experience it seems to work better than the push-type on my Model C's.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 4:27pm |
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note in JOHNS photo.... the SWITCH seems to have a CAST housing, instead of the standard sheet metal... and there is a BRUSH COVER STRAP around the starter, similar to a generator.... neither of those is very common..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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john2189
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 4:30pm |
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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john2189
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 4:36pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
note in JOHNS photo.... the SWITCH seems to have a CAST housing, instead of the standard sheet metal... and there is a BRUSH COVER STRAP around the starter, similar to a generator.... neither of those is very common.. |
The switch is pressed steel and the brush cover is what was on it when I bought it, so I don’t know what it is supposed to be 
Edited by john2189 - 19 Jun 2026 at 4:39pm
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 4:44pm |
OOOPS... i mean Hough photo that you reposted... That switch housing has gussets so it must be cast ??
Your tie strap lifting the rod , solves the problem... The problem was the rod PIN and the pivot PIN are too much in line with the starter rod... The two pins should be offset as much as possible.. 90 degrees is perfect.... but zero or close to that would cause a bind...
Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Jun 2026 at 4:52pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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john2189
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 5:26pm |
steve(ill) wrote:
OOOPS... i mean Hough photo that you reposted... That switch housing has gussets so it must be cast ??
Your tie strap lifting the rod , solves the problem... The problem was the rod PIN and the pivot PIN are too much in line with the starter rod... The two pins should be offset as much as possible.. 90 degrees is perfect.... but zero or close to that would cause a bind...
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Ok Steve, What is supposed to hold it up? What is missing? Or is the pins and holes worn causing slop?
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 7:01pm |
I've run into this issue a couple of times. The little lever that pushes on the button gets worn and causes the lever to rest in more of a horizontal position, causing the problem you're having. The lever has a stop on the underside where it rests against the pivot mount on the switch. I've had to build up the stop with weld on the small lever so it doesn't drop so low. There were some replacement levers several years ago that had that little stop not made right and they would cause the exact problem you are having. Build up the end of that lever and then grind or file it to a more pronounced shape and that should solve it.
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john2189
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 8:30pm |
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Thanks Phil, I will check it out.
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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wjohn
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Posted: 19 Jun 2026 at 10:32pm |
Les Kerf wrote:
The CA replaced the C but the Model B continued in production, I wonder if they changed both models to the pull-type rod at the same time. In my experience it seems to work better than the push-type on my Model C's.
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Yes, the later B's used some "CA" parts. I can usually spot them easily by the torque tube.
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 20 Jun 2026 at 5:35am |
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Gussets can be stamped into sheet metal when the shell is being formed, I can't say it is a certain sign that the switch housing in question is cast.
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HudCo
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Posted: 20 Jun 2026 at 11:32am |
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john2189
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Posted: 20 Jun 2026 at 12:55pm |
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The lever looks good. I like the floorboards, do they make it easier to get on and off?
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'41 Allis B
'49 Farmall Cub
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HudCo
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Posted: 20 Jun 2026 at 10:05pm |
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same on the left side with a step on the left that was biult when the mower was mounted so it clears about every thing
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