Well gonna HAVE to split the 180

I have fixed several manual PTO's on 180 tractors and it's always the same problem. The PTO lever linkage is poorly designed and weakly built and if anyone gets rough with it, things get bent/twisted. Then, the hand lever winds up hitting the back edge of the hood not getting the sliding coupler fully engaged. I generally start with draining the hydraulic and transmission oil. Remove the PTO shield and give the shaft a yank and remove it from the tractor. Dress the burred end of the removed PTO shaft with a grinder removing anything that would impede the coupler from engaging fully, mainly getting the end O.D. back down to size. Now, with the shaft removed, concentrate on the linkage. The curved lever directly behind the clutch pedal lower pivot shaft is usually twisted and coming in contact with the clutch pedal pivot area BEFORE it gets to the detent position inside the torque housing. So, now you have to determine if you can heat the lever to get it clocked back clockwise enough to get full engagement to the detent. Maybe your issue is the hand lever roll pin?? Maybe the mid-way bell crank?? Could be all three things, but until you get the inner sliding coupler to reach the detent position, it ain't gonna work right. Once you get the linkage stroking 100% stick the shaft back in and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Shift lightly from now on !!

If replacement parts are still available from AGCO, that lower PTO lever is twice as thick to prevent bending/twisting.

Do as the Dr. says, but make a lever like the D17 has coming up along side of torque tube,and weld it to original linkage. Do away with the junk linkage the engineer made.                MACK

My 180 was problematic as first bough, replaced shaft and coupler several years ago then made mistake let another borrow the tractor for a ditch needing mowed as could not get his 16’ batwing in it, I have a 8’ Bush Hog 3008. Been rough to deal with since so pulled the Bent shift rod and got it to go full detent yet can watch the shifter slop back out as de-throttle. Shaft likely worn to taper again from his beating into submission. Hydraulic oil has been migrating to trans/final for a few years, pushing more faster now so time for seals.
Appreciate all the suggestions, just has come to tear down as it also needs a clutch.

I believe from a quick google the AC part # would be 235296 but would await someone with more experience to confirm. My main reason for reply was that if your local supplier can't handle a National seal number what are they doing?

Correct AGCO p/n is 70227679. It takes two seals. P/n might change to a Massey number from this number. Pack the first seal (rear) with grease so the spring won't pop out of place when you drive it into the bore. Brass bushing is inside of the first (rear) seal.