Farm Equipment - Well gonna HAVE to split the 180

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Well gonna HAVE to split the 180

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=195857
Printed Date: 30 Jun 2025 at 11:47am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Well gonna HAVE to split the 180

Posted By: DMiller
Subject: Well gonna HAVE to split the 180
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 2:38pm

PTO Inner seal been leaking a long time, now the PTO has decided NOT gonna stay engaged and is Manual not Hydraulic. Will undoubtedly need slider, shaft, maybe fork and seals. Sucks.

This as I am scheduled to have Cubital Tunnel(Elbow) surgery on both arms sequentially, then IF Arthritis is not so bad, have a SI Joint Fusion performed. Be down something like 8-10 WEEKS.

Replies:

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 5:04pm

I have fixed several manual PTO's on 180 tractors and it's always the same problem. The PTO lever linkage is poorly designed and weakly built and if anyone gets rough with it, things get bent/twisted. Then, the hand lever winds up hitting the back edge of the hood not getting the sliding coupler fully engaged. I generally start with draining the hydraulic and transmission oil. Remove the PTO shield and give the shaft a yank and remove it from the tractor. Dress the burred end of the removed PTO shaft with a grinder removing anything that would impede the coupler from engaging fully, mainly getting the end O.D. back down to size. Now, with the shaft removed, concentrate on the linkage. The curved lever directly behind the clutch pedal lower pivot shaft is usually twisted and coming in contact with the clutch pedal pivot area BEFORE it gets to the detent position inside the torque housing. So, now you have to determine if you can heat the lever to get it clocked back clockwise enough to get full engagement to the detent. Maybe your issue is the hand lever roll pin?? Maybe the mid-way bell crank?? Could be all three things, but until you get the inner sliding coupler to reach the detent position, it ain't gonna work right. Once you get the linkage stroking 100% stick the shaft back in and I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Shift lightly from now on !!

Posted By: captaindana
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 5:17pm

Wow Doc you are priceless! (as we all already knew!)

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Blue Skies and Tail Winds
Dana

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 5:25pm

If replacement parts are still available from AGCO, that lower PTO lever is twice as thick to prevent bending/twisting.

Posted By: AMB(wcIL)
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 8:53pm

I was able to replace the coupler by dropping the PTO drive gear box under neath and I might have removed the power director plate cover on the side of a 185 I used to have. It had the left-hand manual engagement and 540 only. If I remember correctly, man the was probably the mid 90's. Andy

Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 8:59pm

Do as the Dr. says, but make a lever like the D17 has coming up along side of torque tube,and weld it to original linkage. Do away with the junk linkage the engineer made. MACK

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 9:54pm

Actually Mack, my high platform One-Seventy has the standard equipment PTO lever on it with a One-Eighty platform/seat arrangement. Works just fine !!

Posted By: DMiller
Date Posted: 27 Jun 2023 at 5:02am

My 180 was problematic as first bough, replaced shaft and coupler several years ago then made mistake let another borrow the tractor for a ditch needing mowed as could not get his 16’ batwing in it, I have a 8’ Bush Hog 3008. Been rough to deal with since so pulled the Bent shift rod and got it to go full detent yet can watch the shifter slop back out as de-throttle. Shaft likely worn to taper again from his beating into submission. Hydraulic oil has been migrating to trans/final for a few years, pushing more faster now so time for seals.
Appreciate all the suggestions, just has come to tear down as it also needs a clutch.

Posted By: ClayP
Date Posted: 28 Jun 2025 at 3:09pm

Does anyone know the double seal part number on the 180 pto shaft between the transmission reservoir and the hydraulic reservoir? The National # is 50058, but my local parts stores can't seem to work with that number?? My a/c parts book isn't real clear on those two seals. Thanks in advance, Clay P.

Posted By: ekjdm14
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2025 at 3:32am

I believe from a quick google the AC part # would be 235296 but would await someone with more experience to confirm. My main reason for reply was that if your local supplier can't handle a National seal number what are they doing?

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Stuck Farmer

Posted By: ClayP
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2025 at 5:24am

Thanks, I'll check that number to see if it might work. I agree about my local dealers. The National #50058 seems to give them problems!

Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2025 at 6:42am

Correct AGCO p/n is 70227679. It takes two seals. P/n might change to a Massey number from this number. Pack the first seal (rear) with grease so the spring won't pop out of place when you drive it into the bore. Brass bushing is inside of the first (rear) seal.

Posted By: Mikez
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2025 at 7:13am

I didn’t find 235296 in the 180 parts book.

Try 227679

Posted By: ClayP
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2025 at 12:41pm

Thanks for all the help! Those two lower seals have been holding me back from sliding the 180 back together.