Allis 7050 will not move.

Our 7050 engine runs great. All fluids are full. We were unloading Hay with it and the darn thing quit moving. No snaps, no groans, just quit moving.

Goes into each gear fine. I got my Allen wrench out and Checked the clamp above the right rear wheel. That is tight. Getting ready to pull up the floor plate in the cab.

Assuming it is more complicated than we can fix in our small home shop. We plan to remove the loader and the cab before we take it into the one and only local tractor repair shop that charges $180 per labor hour plus parts.

What other trouble shooting can we do at home to narrow down the problem?

Research torque limiter.   

My 7580 suddenly stopped moving ended up losing the tranny input shaft.

And the stearing is fine. Front wheels turn left and right no problem.

Pressure lights work and are not on. No the floor board button is not hung up. and does not work in High or Low range.

Reason for taking the cab off before it goes to the shop is that it needs removed to split the tractor anyway. The shop charges $180 a labor hour and every hour of work we do is worth it.

That is good News. Looking at the manual right now trying to figure out how to access it to see if that is the problem.

And in conformation of needing the tractor split for repair of the Torque Limiter is Paragraph 75 page 34 of the repair Manuel. To split the tractor the cab must be removed.

But still the hydraulics and steering work, would this not be an indication it is not the Torque Limiter?

Yes the steering works fine.

I'll place my bet on the splines being stripped on the power director clutch hub. You still split it in the same place at the torque limiter. Drain the transmission oil and take the 3/8" bolts out around the front of the transmission. The whole power director will slide out, and I almost bet when you pull the snap ring off the shaft and pull it out you will find pieces of spline from the hub. I think Dr Allis said the 7030/7050 tractors didn't get any lube there when assembled. I've been putting moly paste on the splines of every one I split now.

Blue Yonder Farm wrote: I would like to narrow the trouble down as far as possible so the local Tractor shop does not shaft us. They have a reputation of less than stellar repute. But are the only choice for 2-4 hours in all directions.

Edited by Tcmtech - 23 Oct 2016 at 4:36pm

Tcmtech wrote: The cable for the High/low gearset shift didn't come apart and let it slide into the neutral position between  the two did it?

How will I check that?

Stripped splines in the Power Director hub are very likely, especially if it has never been apart before. Do you have any history on the tractor?

We can haul it about three hours in any direction but that falls short about two hours of getting it to a different shop that will work on AC. The more I can narrow down the problem the smarter I will sound when I go to the shop and the less they will toy with me. I thank you all for the great feedback! Keep it coming please

Sure sounds like striped splines in the power director hub to me.

If you thought you could take the cab off yourself you can split it. As long as it's flat it's even been done in a rock driveway before although it's not as fun. Just build or buy a set of splitting stands preferably with wheels on them, but can be bolted solid to the frame straight to the floor. Hardest part is unhooking lines and hoses, and having someone help roll the front end away. You can probably find a power director unit to slide back in, but if you feel up to it while it's apart I would reseal it. If you take the torque limiter out while your apart make sure you slip it when you get it together again or it will take your splines out again.

Edited by 7060 - 24 Oct 2016 at 8:17am

The torque limiter has to be completely centered or else it will eat the splines off between the input shaft and clutch hub. You can have the torque limiter close enough to center to get the tractor slid back together, but by spinning it it will center itself. After its all back together put it in high range in a higher gear and let out on the clutch with you foot on both brakes. It should slip without killing the engine. The service manual explains this.