NEW PROJECT: D14

Hello,  I purchased this D14 today. Not sure of the year yet, I am still working on getting it out of the barn and on to the trailer. Tires were flat, pumped them up and are holding air well enough to get onto a trailer. The two back tires are leaking at the valve stems.  Took carb off and did a quick clean, drained gas, put new gas in.  The battery they had in it was a 12 volt with negative to ground.  I put a 12 volt marine battery in and just get a click when I try to start it. Lights are bright. The one gauge reads 15 amps. Just by looking at the generator, I am thinking this is suppose to be a 6 volt positive ground system.  How would I check for 6 volt rather than 12?  Dosen't 6 have more cranking amps?

Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 21 Jul 2016 at 7:52am

Ok...
first, pictures... you need to find the 'option' on your 'smart device' to 'lock orientation', that way pictures will be right side up.
second, wiring. Do yourself a BIG favour and get rid of 100% of what's there! You've got 50-60 year old wiring and NONE of it will be any good. You'll waste a LOT of time trying this and that,testing here and there, and well, the gremlins WILL win. For 'testing' you really only need NEW starter cables and a wire to the ignition, and another to the starter solenoid. If you're not comfortable with wiring, buy a kit from Steve at B&B on this site, though I've redone 3 out of 4 of my D-14s and they run just fine..
3rd. if it hasn't run for awhile, you'll probably need to clean the points as they get corroded over time. Maybe replace all 4 spark plugs. Firing order is 1243 with #1 being closest to the rad.

ask anything, guys here are very, very smart !

Jay

That's wierd. Photos look fine on computer but when I posted, the pics were upside down.  I think I have the issue fixed now.  Had to reset the exif parameters.

Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 21 Jul 2016 at 7:53am

The early D14 was 6 volt and the later ones were 12 volt.

The generator and negative ground has me confused.   These where positive ground new. It could have been switched to negative ground but typically that is part of a alternator upgrade.   Makes me wonder if someone just didn't know and put a battery in backwards.   

with 12 volt battery connected with negative ground, key in run position, tractor not running, cant remember if lights were on (makes sense that they were).  This picture shows the gauge readings. It is reading 9 amps to the discharge side.

Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 21 Jul 2016 at 7:51am

http://uploads/351/d14wiring2.jpg

oops... serverdon't like me... can't show d-14 wiring for some reason....sigh...

Jay



Edited by jaybmiller - 21 Jul 2016 at 6:09am

I'd say that's a 12 volt starter, sure is sad to see that much rust on the tractor though !

OK, on the bottom of the bell housing there's a 3" hole plug. Pop it off, shine a light in there, see how big a 'mouse house' you have. Normally you should just see clutch parts but mice LOVE that area. If it's full, you'll have to remove starter as it's be jammed with mosue house materials. Mine was so jammed starter would NOT spin over!
ah the fun begins.....
Jay

If in fact this is a 12 volt system, I'm assuming this is still a 6 volt generator.  It would still charge, just not as quick correct?  I notice there is no cutout (silver rectangular box) on the generator like my WD has. This one has just two posts.  Left photo is from D14, right photo is from WD showing the cutout relay

Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 21 Jul 2016 at 8:03am

So this is the voltage regulator.  Wire on top, wire on bottom, and wire on side.  It is attached to left side of genny, kinda behind the gas bowl.  The wire on the bottom looks kinda frayed in this photo.   Once I get her home I will be replacing all of the wiring as Jay mentioned.  Currently out in a barn with no electricity. The tractor was stored for years under a roof but open to the weather.  

HVFDFIREFIGHTER wrote: So this is the voltage regulator.  Wire on top, wire on bottom, and wire on side.  It is attached to left side of genny, kinda behind the gas bowl.  The wire on the bottom looks kinda frayed in this photo.   Once I get her home I will be replacing all of the wiring as Jay mentioned.  Currently out in a barn with no electricity. The tractor was stored for years under a roof but open to the weather.

I'm just coming on to this, but that is your Starter relay that kicks the Starter motor in. It looks to me as the cable running to it is partically severed or just about rotted off. That will never start with the cable that way. The thing I would do first is see if the engine turns over by hand. If it doesn't, throwing cables and parts at it to get it fired up will be a waste of time if the engine is stuck. The second thing I would do is check the serial number of the Tractor to ID whether it was originally 6V or a later 12V version. Looking at the pic of the Battery, that Battery is a 12V maintenance free version. Doesn't mean its correct. Looking at the Generator chassis, it could be a 6V or 12V with or without a band. Some 6V versions were closed chassis units also. If the engine turns over by hand then I would go with what Jay mentioned with cables, but you have a LOT of cleaning to do at all the connections to even make an attempt to start it. Personally, I think you would be better off getting some help to get it out of where its at onto the trailer and getting it home in your barn or garage to take your time and tear it down to get it in some sort of shape to try to fire it providing as I said that the engine isn't stuck from sitting. HTH
Steve@B&B

I wouldn't try to start it with the battery & starter....until you're sure it isn't stuck.

  Make sure  ignition is OFF  and remove plugs for these suggestions

If you push the fan-belt tighter into the pulleys, then pull on one of the fan blades, it may turn over.  Watch so you don't scrape some skin off.

You could put it in 4th HI,
then rock one of the rear tires fwd & back.
If it isn't stuck, that will turn the engine a little.

But, as Steve suggested.  get it onto the trailer and home so you can work on it.

Question: the power director shifter (lever on right side of tractor close to gear shift) in forward position, is that hi or low range? On the left side of tractor near the clutch peddle there is another lever, what is that? PTO shifter?

Edited by HVFDFIREFIGHTER - 21 Jul 2016 at 10:12am

the PD is on the right as you say.  HI range is forward (which is actually direct input)
LO is rearward (reduced input)
In between is Neutral, but do NOT use for shifting transmission when engine is running....use foot clutch only for that.

The lever to the left is the PTO engagement.  Must use foot clutch to engage.
Foot clutch should also be used to disengage the PTO, but sometimes with little to no load, it can be disengaged by simple moving the lever by hand.

This lever is what you'd use to engage the PTO to do what jaymiller suggests.


Edited by Gatz in NE - 21 Jul 2016 at 10:12am