I thought of the anti bio fuel nuts today

victoryallis wrote: JW The anti bio fuel folks blow my mind. Why would you be against something uses commodities and in turn helps prices because you can’t maintain your system.   Every bushel that gets consumed is a good thing.

Well I thought about the "give up your soul for a buck" pro bio crap fuel control freaks too. You can keep it and quit promoting that to me and others who want none of it. It is sh!t fuel period.

So people are trying to claim all the btu’s it takes to plant corn, the tilling, fertilizer, harvest, haul the corn, the btu’s to dry the corn, then store it, then eventually re-hydrate it, then the btu’s to heat it to ferment it, process it, the btu’s to haul the ethanol to fuel terminals where its blended with gasoline, that takes less btu’s than drilling and refining crude oil?

Edited by Lars(wi) - 16 Jul 2021 at 6:45pm

Well I thought about the "give up your soul for a buck" pro bio crap fuel control freaks too. You can keep it and quit promoting that  to me and others who want none of it. It is sh!t fuel period.

Steve in NJ wrote: I don't know, I rebuild an awful lot of Carburetors for customer's, and I can tell ya first hand that since Ethenol has been around, the insides of the these Carburetor's whether they've been sitting or in service always have muck in them from the ethenol fuel. It definitely wasn't like that back in the 60's and 70's when I was rebuilding Carburetor's back then. At least around in these parts. My own experience with my small engines running ethenol in them whether its mixed for the 2 strokers or GT's, never had stuck valves, gummed up carbs and muck in the tanks like recent years. For the 2 stroke equipment that I have like the leaf blower, weed wacker, etc, I've been running the 50.1 premix fuel you buy at the box stores, and after a couple tank fulls of that run through that equipment, those engines rip now. No ethenol in that fuel and 93 octane. The GT's I add some Seafoam in the tanks to keep the valves from sticking. I guess some of you guys are just lucky you don't have the problems like some of us other dudes. I'm not sure about the humidity factor either, but ethenol doesn't work round' here for me... Steve@B&B

I’m going to point out a few things. I have exclusively ran E10 in my CA for over 20 years now that I’ve owned it and almost as long in my Oliver 60. I have not had any carburetor problems on either tractor in all of that time. Ever since I got my D17D, it takes a year to burn a full tank in either of them. I do put Stabil in them.
I have no doubt that some of the carburetor guys are seeing heavy deposits in carburetors, but I will bet my next paycheck that those carburetors sat YEARS to get that way without use. Those black deposits are what’s left when the volatile compounds are allowed to evaporate. Today’s gasoline and diesel are much more volatile on purpose to aid in atomization and cleaner combustion. Does alcohol attract water? Sure it does. When I need to verify alcohol content in gasoline that’s how I measure it, with water. It’s also one more reason for leaving the sediment bowl in place. A full fuel tank has far less moisture in it than a full one. That’s why the owners manual says fill the tank when you’re done to push out humid air to reduce condensation.
I do get a chuckle out of the guys who say alcohol in fuel is the devil’s handiwork and in the next breath say Sea Foam is the greatest thing going. Sea Foam’s active ingredient is ALCOHOL combined with some light machine oil.
My point is if you run your gasoline engine regularly, you can use E10 with no ill effects. If you don’t run them often, a preservative such as Stabil when used according to the label is very effective at preventing problems from stale fuel.

Talking to a few people involved in fuel transport, they say that there is water "slugs" used to clear pipelines when they switch product, so there is alot of water in fuel period.


Myself, I understand the potential downfalls of biofuels, but when faced with the option of biofuels in an unmodified Allis Chalmers versus crushing said Allis for scrap and being forced to buy a Electric tractor to "go green" I'd rather use biofuels as a negotiating tool against the rabid environmentalists and keep my old junk.

Myself and my personal experience, an old lawn tractor stored outside 365 days a year and rarely ran is the only thing I have trouble with, and I mostly blame my storage method. Old trucks that sit like an old winch truck and a grain truck I have had a little trouble with ethanol, but you guessed it, stored outside as well.

Stored under a roof will solve most problems IMO.

As far as diesel, I have never had biodiesel problems. In fact, I actively search it out, my old GM 6.5Ls run so much smoother with it, and I run Stanadyne Lubricity formula every tank, and most have had new Bosch injectors after I bought them, so IMO the smoothness of the B20 has to mean its burning completely and clean to get it to idle like it does. running "rougher" (still smooth, but not as smooth) on regular diesel cant be blamed on stuff like worn injectors, because at the time of the roadtrip they had less than 5K miles on them.

So perfect fuel? No,but neither is modern diesel after 07 change from LSD to ULSD.

Only option we have to calm down the environazis? IMO, yes.

End of the world junk? Far from it.
People that have terrible maintenance, or refuse to acknowledge their fuel handling and storage techniques might be deserving of blame, usually complain the loudest against biofuels. (guys so cheap they dump out dirty fuel filters and screw them back on, etc.)

Embrace a little compromise and keep a seat at the table, or get kicked off the table and get told what to do by the remainder is what I see happening. We need to get our biofuels industry to talk up all the carbon sequestration and other "green" talking points that biofuels have to keep the current administration happy, and our old Allis' will live on.

As far as the OP, a little less hornets nest wacking would probably get a friendlier response... ;)

GM Guy wrote:   Stored under a roof will solve most problems IMO.

All my tractors and lawn mowers are stored inside almost 100% of the year except when in use.