H3 crawler turning clutches question MORE PICS

Which way should the spline shaft slide? I can move the shaft back and forth a 1/4 inch or so. If I can get the retaining clip off, does the shaft slide into the clutch pack or toward the tranny housing? It seems like it is bottoming out in the direction of the tranny housing already. Not sure which way I should be moving the shaft.

Edited by warddc - 19 Dec 2012 at 7:22pm

I bought a fiber optic camera today so I could look at the c-clip I am supposed to be taking off. I think I can see it. It looks like it wraps around the flange of the spline hub that is in the clutch pack. Going to have to make a tool to pop that clip off. Can't see it without the fiber optic camera. Have no idea how to get off a spring clip that I can't reach or see.

Thanks for the help. I will try bending up a screwdriver and flattening it to make it thinner.

Will do.

Excellent. What do you mean am 4864? Can you email pics and how much you want for it?

What condition is the drum in? How worn is the braking surface?

My h3 brake drum outside and inside is in good condition

Well, I got both turning clutches off. Was pretty easy with the fiber optic camera so we could see the clip and get under it to pry it off. We also made a tool from a piece of 1/4" steel rod. Bent it about an inch from the end to a 90. Then ground the tip really thin like a knife edge.

The shafts slide into the center of the tractor. One shaft actually pushes against the other when they are both slid in. When one shaft is all the way into the throw out bearing the other shaft moves out 3-4 inches.

looks real good after cleaned up. where did all the oil in cases come from ? if it is out of the bevel gear end ( rear end ) section then the seal must be down and since the clutches are dry type, if seals are leaking, you will be back at the same job a little later. i just rebuilt one side and had to pull the cap out to replace the seal. not a big job at this point. 

hope you are right. the plugs are normally open to allow drainage, unless you work in dozer in really wet areas where water could get into the clutches. my plugs were out and the oil out of bevel section ruined the fiber ones. clutches slipped and brake band wold not work.

I JUST PULLED MINE AND REPLACED THE SEAL. I TOOK A SCREW DRIVER AND KNOCKED THE SEAL BACK TOWARD THE BEVEL GEAR. TOOK 2 BOLTS AROUND FIVE INCHES LONG AND WITH A 3/4 INCH CARRIAGE TYPE HEAD. GROUND ONE SIDE OF BOLTS FLAT TO BOLT SIZE. GROUND OPPOSITE SIDE ENOUGH TO GET IT TO FIT BEHIND THE FLANGE STOP FOR THE SEAL. PUT A FLAT BAR WITH TWO SLIDING SLOTTED HOLES. PUT TAPS ON AND TOOK SLATE BAR BEHIND BAR, GAVE A LITTLE PUSH AND IT POPPED OUT. SLID CAP OFF THE AXLE AND PUT SEAL IN. LINES BACK UP PUT TWO BOLTS IN STARTED TO EVENLY TIGHTEN TILL I GOT BACK TO BEARING. LIFTED SLIGHTLY UPWARD ON AXLE AND EASED CAP BACK INTO PLACE. THEN PUT THE OTHER TWO BOLTS IN, TIGHTENED GOOD. PUT CONE BACK ON OVER AXLE. TOTAL TIME FOR JOB 1 HOUR.

ONCE YOU PULL THE CARRIER YOU WILL NEED TO DRIVE THE BEARING RACE OFF AND THEN THE OLD SEAL. REPLACE WITH NEW SEAL AND THEN PUT BEARING RACE BACK IN . REPLACE CARRIER, PUT 4 BOLTS BACK AND JOB DONE. YOU WILL NOT NEED TO REMOVE BACK PLATE WHERE PTO IS. ALL CAN BE DONE FROM INSIDE STEERING CLUTCH HOUSING. 

Randaleky wrote: by the way, what kind of shape were the clutches in when you tore the unit down? were the oil soaked on outside and the fiber plates ? did both sides appear the same ? when i checked mine and discovered the problem, i took the throw out bearing carrier off and took mirror with light to look at seal and found rubber damaged and protruding toward the steering clutch. that is why i had to pull the cap and change mine. it is not a real big job. my e-mail is randal.thornsbury@aol.com send pm and i will give you my home phone # in case you need to call me.

nope.  probably tonight.  I think that I have to drain the oil in the tranny to get it below the level of the carriers.

by the way did you go back with fiber clutches or the bi-metalic ? i went with bi-metalic and bought them from webmasters@tractorparts.com . paid 172.35 for 4 bi-metalic clutches and 3 new steel plates. all aftermarket new items. new bands are 145.00 each they are in idaho. bought bearings and seals from napa store.