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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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Sorry I stated it poorly. Yes if a line is sucking air it can't be from the pressure side. Your correction is appreciated.
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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Ok thanks for that. I figured foam meant we were getting air. Fuel filters are new and line to tank is clean. We know theubo is bad (have got rebuilt one yet).
Where's the check ball on the pump at? I was not working on the machine today just relaying what my dad told me. Thanks guys. We are heavy equipment noobs but not diesel noobs. I m used to plugging my laptop into my diesel! |
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29626 |
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On Roosa Master or Stanadyne pumps, atop the rectangular top cover there will be a steel fitting where the return fuel from the pump to tank is, it can either be a direct low pressure steel tube or a rubber hose to steel tube connection. Inside the fitting itself is the check ball. If it is hard sucking air it could be the umbrella seals on the pump drive shaft, one faces forward to stop oil migration to injection and one rearward to stop fuel to engine oil. In either case he pump should come off either with debris in the check ball or sucking air the seals are shot.
The stanadyne type pump is typical to have the injection tubes arranged in a circular pattern on the outside ring of the injector head, this type pump has but one injection plunger and works much as a distributor on a gas engine. |
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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Took a quick glance at the injection pump today. It's got all the injector lines arranged around it in a circle so it's a stanadyne I guessing
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injpumpEd
Orange Level Access Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Walnut IL Points: 4781 |
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give me the numbers on the pump tag. I'm thinking this is new enough to have a DM pump on it, which does not have a flex ring. |
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210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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Pic of the pump tag |
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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Ok guys bumping this up. Worked on the machine today.
New turbo is on. We checked all 6 injectors. Engine idling crack each injector line individually and the rpms dropped. Couldn't get both return lines out of the injection pump but took the top one off (injector return) and looked down in. Clean diesel. Started the machine and drove down the hill. Ran fine some blue smoke out of the stack. Start back up the hill and the machine starts blowing tons of blue smoke out the breather. Can idle down machine it would stop. Drive 10 feet up the hill it starts blowing out the breather. Blue smoke and looks like maybe some oil Does this mean we have an internal problem? |
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DMiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Hermann, Mo Points: 29626 |
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Hate to say it but sounds like either busted rings or a scored cylinder.
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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With oil smoke after changing the turbo. I think your new turbo is bad. The return line from the turbo has to be unrestricted and about 3/4 inch diameter or the turbo will pass large quantities of oil into the intake manifold. If the return line is unrestricted try swaping the old turbo back. Once I replaced the turbo oil return line with a smaller metal line because I thought the hose looked ugly. I found a small reduction in diameter causes oil consumption.
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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It's def not the new turbo. Oil drain line is the exact same one we took off and the machine did run fine with. We suspected rings or sleeves.
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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Well pulled the cylinder head off today. 1 piston melted pretty bad, hole in it. That explains our excessive smoke. Two other pistons have minimal damage on top. Prolly change 3
Can I buy just 3 pistons and sleeves or do I have to buy a whole set? |
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gemdozer
Orange Level Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Points: 942 |
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You better buy a whole set
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Dozer
Orange Level Joined: 16 Aug 2011 Location: SW New York Points: 689 |
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Your best purchase is an in frame overhaul kit. Individual sleeve, piston and ring kits are available for $213. There are deep and shallow dish piston designs and there are two main and rod bearing designs. When I was trying to locate main bearings for my motor I found that the main bearing set has been discontinued. I purchased a dealers remaining inventory. I have main bearings and rod bearings for sale. When you purchase the in frame overhaul kit and if the seller can not supply the bearings send me a PM I have the bearings in most sizes.
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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well the motor in the machine only has approximately 1000 hours on it prior to this, it had an in frame rebuild done. Why we are thinking of just replacing the 3.
Is there a good website I can shop for parts online?
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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welp we pulled the 3 pistons and noticed the rod bearings had excessive wear, so we decided to do the whole motor in frame. knocked out all 6 sleeves yesterday and appears the previous rebuild only changed 2, 4 are still original.
forgot to snap pics, will try to get one later of the piston
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Tiger Joe
Bronze Level Joined: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Pittsburgh Points: 37 |
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we put 6 new sleeves and pistons in the machine last weekend. followed the starting instructions with the kit regarding letting the machine crack over before starting.
Once we got to the actually starting, hit the key and don't even think the engine spun over 1/2 a revolution and fired. Sounds really good too.
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