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hd7gb stalling randomly

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Dozer View Drop Down
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Joined: 16 Aug 2011
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2013 at 8:17pm
Sorry I stated it poorly. Yes if a line is sucking air it can't be from the pressure side. Your correction is appreciated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2013 at 9:19pm
Ok thanks for that. I figured foam meant we were getting air. Fuel filters are new and line to tank is clean. We know theubo is bad (have got rebuilt one yet).

Where's the check ball on the pump at? I was not working on the machine today just relaying what my dad told me.

Thanks guys. We are heavy equipment noobs but not diesel noobs. I m used to plugging my laptop into my diesel!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2013 at 4:21am
On Roosa Master or Stanadyne pumps, atop the rectangular top cover there will be a steel fitting where the return fuel from the pump to tank is, it can either be a direct low pressure steel tube or a rubber hose to steel tube connection. Inside the fitting itself is the check ball. If it is hard sucking air it could be the umbrella seals on the pump drive shaft, one faces forward to stop oil migration to injection and one rearward to stop fuel to engine oil. In either case he pump should come off either with debris in the check ball or sucking air the seals are shot.

The stanadyne type pump is typical to have the injection tubes arranged in a circular pattern on the outside ring of the injector head, this type pump has but one injection plunger and works much as a distributor on a gas engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2013 at 8:13pm
Took a quick glance at the injection pump today. It's got all the injector lines arranged around it in a circle so it's a stanadyne I guessing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2013 at 9:11pm
Originally posted by Tiger Joe Tiger Joe wrote:

Took a quick glance at the injection pump today. It's got all the injector lines arranged around it in a circle so it's a stanadyne I guessing

 give me the numbers on the pump tag. I'm thinking this is new enough to have a DM pump on it, which does not have a flex ring.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2013 at 7:39pm


Pic of the pump tag
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2013 at 1:39pm
Ok guys bumping this up. Worked on the machine today.

New turbo is on. We checked all 6 injectors. Engine idling crack each injector line individually and the rpms dropped.

Couldn't get both return lines out of the injection pump but took the top one off (injector return) and looked down in. Clean diesel.

Started the machine and drove down the hill. Ran fine some blue smoke out of the stack. Start back up the hill and the machine starts blowing tons of blue smoke out the breather. Can idle down machine it would stop. Drive 10 feet up the hill it starts blowing out the breather. Blue smoke and looks like maybe some oil

Does this mean we have an internal problem?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jun 2013 at 8:02pm
Hate to say it but sounds like either busted rings or a scored cylinder.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2013 at 6:42am
With oil smoke after changing the turbo. I think your new turbo is bad. The return line from the turbo has to be unrestricted and about 3/4 inch diameter or the turbo will pass large quantities of oil into the intake manifold. If the return line is unrestricted try swaping the old turbo back. Once I replaced the turbo oil return line with a smaller metal line because I thought the hose looked ugly. I found a small reduction in diameter causes oil consumption.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jun 2013 at 9:39am
It's def not the new turbo. Oil drain line is the exact same one we took off and the machine did run fine with. We suspected rings or sleeves.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2013 at 4:31pm
Well pulled the cylinder head off today. 1 piston melted pretty bad, hole in it. That explains our excessive smoke. Two other pistons have minimal damage on top. Prolly change 3

Can I buy just 3 pistons and sleeves or do I have to buy a whole set?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gemdozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2013 at 6:17pm
You better buy a whole set
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 7:00am
Your best purchase is an in frame overhaul kit. Individual sleeve, piston and ring kits are available for $213. There are deep and shallow dish piston designs and there are two main and rod bearing designs. When I was trying to locate main bearings for my motor I found that the main bearing set has been discontinued. I purchased a dealers remaining inventory. I have main bearings and rod bearings for sale. When you purchase the in frame overhaul kit and if the seller can not supply the bearings send me a PM I have the bearings in most sizes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 2013 at 10:40am
well the motor in the machine only has approximately 1000 hours on it prior to this, it had an in frame rebuild done.  Why we are thinking of just replacing the 3. 

Is there a good website I can shop for parts online?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 7:34am
welp we pulled the 3 pistons and noticed the rod bearings had excessive wear, so we decided to do the whole motor in frame.  knocked out all 6 sleeves yesterday and appears the previous rebuild only changed 2, 4 are still original.  

forgot to snap pics, will try to get one later of the piston
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tiger Joe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2013 at 7:16am
we put 6 new sleeves and pistons in the machine last weekend.  followed the starting instructions with the kit regarding letting the machine crack over before starting.  

Once we got to the actually starting, hit the key and don't even think the engine spun over 1/2 a revolution and fired.  Sounds really good too.
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