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Allis 301 mods for pickup truck |
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020 Location: Griswold Iowa Points: 1418 |
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Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 6:13pm |
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My brother, my dad, and me have duramax’s and haven’t had too bad of luck.
Mine is a 2004 LB7 (just got it earlier this year) as a non runner (it did run the day before I went to look/ test drive it) and put around 2k-3k into it (failed computer and injector) with a full service and waterpump. Now it needs a power steering pump. I thought about finding an old 3/4 ton pickup and putting a Allis Chalmers 426 in it but I really like my duramax now. |
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 93064 |
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Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 6:27pm |
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Recent quarterly 2026 diesel pickup truck sales are: Ford 89,540 units.....Chevy/GMC combined were 50,080.....Ram was 25,716. Cummins engines have always helped sell Dodge/Ram trucks for sure, but are a long way behind Ford..
without the CUMMINS, Dodge sales would be MINIMAL... thats all they got going for them.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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SamT-Ga
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Joined: 18 Dec 2023 Location: 31064 Points: 17 |
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Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 11:35pm |
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Back in 1983 I put a 433I from F2 in a 72 Chevy C10. Used a combine flywheel, Ford pressure plate and clutch will bolt right to it, had to make adapter for pilot brg. Ran injection pump like it was set for combine. It had power like a 292 gas engine. used Ford overdrive trans out of F150 with 300 inline 6. In 1984 drove to west coast and back with 10 ft cabover camper, could only run in 3rd, direct gear. pedal to the medal 2450 rpm and 58 mph getting 15.8 mpg. Ther were pictures on here at one time. I called it my "Allisfordolet" truck.
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WF owner
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Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5303 |
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Posted: 13 Jul 2026 at 5:31am |
I agree 100%. And it probably is only going to get worse with Stellantis (Fiat) owning Chrysler.
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020 Location: Idaho Points: 1891 |
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Posted: 13 Jul 2026 at 5:42pm |
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Since this is an ancient thread that has already gone off track, I'll add my 2 cents ![]() Back in the 70's a neighbor put a 4-53T Detroit Diesel in a Bumpside Ford Highboy 4x4; it was noisy, stinky, and slow but he drove it for 30 years a 200K+ miles getting right at 20 MPG when diesel was cheaper than gasoline. That's the only diesel pickup I've ever had a hankerin' for, but I'm certainly not going to pull the 300 I6 out of my 74 F-350 to have one. |
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 93064 |
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Posted: 13 Jul 2026 at 6:37pm |
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that old 300 - 6 is hard to beat... SIMPLE , CHEAP, EASY to work on... Runs FOREVER.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5690 |
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Posted: 16 Jul 2026 at 9:10pm |
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Hate on my 2007 Ram all you want, but it’s given me 19 years of trouble free service. Yep, it’s got a Cummins heart but the rest of the truck has been rock solid for 154k miles. A lot of those miles the truck has had a trailer of some type or 5th wheel camper behind it. I bought it new to pull loads that I needed it to and it has served me well. My XT looks quite nice on my gooseneck going down the road behind it.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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WF owner
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Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5303 |
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Posted: 17 Jul 2026 at 5:10am |
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If it has given you that many years of trouble free service, I am bettting it does not have an automatic transmission.
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5690 |
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Posted: 17 Jul 2026 at 7:37am |
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Still has the original trans in it. I installed a high capacity oil pan on it. I did replace the AC unit 2 years ago, forgot about that. It receives regular maintenance and I only use OEM filters and oil.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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8070nc
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Joined: 21 Mar 2019 Location: North Carolina Points: 898 |
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Posted: 17 Jul 2026 at 11:00am |
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I dont want to step in a pile here but i dont see how it matters what brand a person uses. If it works for them have at it. Im not a fan of other tractir brands tha AC but a lot of families have been raised and children fed with other brands
Thank God |
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1984 80780
1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor |
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Alex09(WI)
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Joined: 15 Mar 2012 Location: CECIL WI Points: 1792 |
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Posted: 17 Jul 2026 at 9:08pm |
Ignoring all the other garbage posted here, i've made progress on the project: The 7000 engine I was using ended up being not rebuilt like the previous owner said... So I'm starting again on the engine, this time from scratch. I am using a engine block with piston cooler jets in the main bearing saddles. Maroon 7000 engine block. Question 1 for those more knowledgeable then I: Would a 7010, 7020 or 8010 engine block be more beneficial to start with? I am using the 190/180 cylinder head without the copper injector tubes. It will be 6 less things to cause issues. And I will almost certainly have the head ported and polished for better airflow. I am using a large engine oil cooler from M2 combine engine to help keep the engine oil cooler, and thus life expectancy improved. I am using an air to air intercooler in front of the radiator. I have a CAV/simms inline injection pump from a M2 combine engine getting rebuilt right now for use on this engine. I may have to use larger fuel lines depending on the CC output of the pump. I might try the stock combine governor like Sam from GA did with the 433I, it sounds like it preformed well for him. I plan to use stock injectors with 7080 nozzles, but may have to use bigger nozzles. Won't know till the pump is figured out. I am having the rotating assy balanced for engine longevity. The connecting rods are getting hardened at this time. I plan to use a fluid dampner on the front of the crankshaft. Question 2 for those more knowledgable than I: Will a new fluid dampner for an 8070 work well for this application? I may have to machine a 180 pulley into a hub for the dampner. I will use the crankshaft driven oil pump with big oil pan. Considering making the oil pan bigger for more oil capacity, hopefully keeping it a littler cooler. Still on the fence about using stock 301 pistons. I am exploring oversize piston/sleeve options. I can't find anything definite in the pulling section about 1/16" or 1/8" oversize pistons and sleeves that will drop in the 301 block with minimal machining. I have a rebuilt 7000 turbo ready to install when the time comes, may need to change later but its a good starting point. Ideas I am still considering and haven't finalized yet: I am considering turning the exhaust manifold upside down to keep the height of the engine lower to use a stock hood. Also considering fabricating an air scoop into the hood to force a bit of air through the filter and into the turbo at high speeds. Do I use a 7020 intercooled manifold with or without the core... My engine will be built for longevity and more power. The difference in this one vs an ag tractor or puller is it will be under 100% load only 5-10% of the time. I estimate it will be under less than 50% load most of the running time. I am planning for 300hp @ 3000rpms and I expect the engine to last a long time with my modifications running under the lighter conditions stated. Ideal road rpms are 2200-2400 in 6th gear. The truck is purchased. Its a 1984 chevy K20 factory diesel, was running and driving. I sold the engine and transmission out of it. The engine bay is pretty roomy. Will see how the engine fits. The transmission is purchased. Its a ZF6 out of a 2003 ford f250 with 7.3 diesel. |
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A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23484 |
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Posted: 18 Jul 2026 at 6:06pm |
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#1. A newer engine block casting would probably be advised for 3 turbos and 150 psi of boost. Not needed for what you're trying to do. Polishing and porting of the cylinder head ports will probably do nothing more than make you feel like you did something. No provable results. Removal of enough material, in the end, actually could weaken the cyl head structure. #2. Fluid damper would be fine, but again a good rubber style with 3 or maybe 4 grooves (combine pulley) would be adequate I think, if there is room. Remember, the damper only controls engine harmonics when at their worst, which would be at the highest HP and highest RPM and at the same time. It's got nothing to do with engine "balance". Stock deep oil pan is 4 gallons with two spin-on filters. That's plenty. Oil temps?? The oil cooler actually sees to it the engine oil temp is at least 180 degrees minimum and tries to keep it at whatever coolant temps are. A 10 gallon oil pan will still probably be that 180+ degree oil temp. 220 degrees isn't too hot according to what I've been taught. A large enough capacity radiator is imperative to keep things down to that 180 degree number. Pistons would be best served at 15 to 1 compression for longer service life. The 200-7000-7010-7020-M2/3 engines used these. Cold starts will be compromised some, but the bottom end of the engine will really thank you. There aren't drop-in over-bore parts available for these engines. I've made pistons and sleeves to 4.500" bore size for a 301, which makes 405 cubes, but they would never work/last in your application. And also require massive block boring which weakens the block structure. 7020 intake manifold?? might add to some turbo lag and again it might not. Today, there are far better turbo choices than anything A-C offered from 40 years ago. A 7000 turbo will never handle 300 HP. Air-to-air would be better performing than a hot coolant type intercooler. My exhaust manifold would be straight out of the center cylinder head port to the turbo (zero bends !!) and then make the other two port runners meet the center one, again minimal bends and keep the diameters of the runners SMALL, virtually matching the cyl head port size. I make them with 1/4" wall steel pipe that I can buy locally. Heat treated conn rods?? I wouldn't worry about that. At 500 HP maybe. Good luck with the project.
Edited by DrAllis - 18 Jul 2026 at 10:26pm |
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AC7060IL
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Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3784 |
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Posted: 19 Jul 2026 at 9:14am |
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A 2003 ZF6 has a high gear ratio of 0.72:1. A stock 1984 K20 could have a 3,42, 3.73, or 4.10 axle ratio. It’s tire size could be 235/85R16. So using those numbers, engine rpms of 2200 & 2400 should yield the following;
84.29 - 91.95 mph @ 3.42 gears, 77.29 - 84.31 mph @ 3.73 gears, 70.31 - 76.7 mph @ 4.10 gears. Edited by AC7060IL - 19 Jul 2026 at 9:18am |
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23484 |
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Posted: 19 Jul 2026 at 10:47pm |
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Some quick math comes up with this: Looks like about 525 ft lbs at the flywheel @ 2,800 to 3,000 RPM will get you 300 flywheel HP. Max factory rating on a 649-TI is 155 HP @ 2,600 RPM / 312 ft lbs of torque. That fluid damper would probably be a better choice, as it is made to run in that 450-500 ft lbs range @ 2800 RPM.
Edited by DrAllis - 20 Jul 2026 at 4:53pm |
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Allis Silver Pony
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Joined: 26 Jul 2025 Location: New Mexico Points: 12 |
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Posted: 23 Jul 2026 at 3:46pm |
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Apears we have similar goals in mind with our builds. I cant answer your questions... if they were directed to me.. Im new to the forum. I haven't put hands on the project for a while. Im hoping to get back to it around September. I also need a damper, which I believe you were researching. I definitely would like to know if you figured out the best course. What are you doing to acheive 300 hp? So far I invested in a a modified fuel injection pump and new injectors. My BAR pressure is set at 262. I will also build a manifold and put compound turbos on to give me a broad powerband. Its going to be a while before the project is completed. I know that ZF6 will be nice. My allison 1000 is gona be much more complicated and its automatic. It might loose alot of the fun factor... but I like its highway manners. I believe you said you would be at 2200 rpm on the highway.. with my Allison I should be closer to 1940 in 5th and 1620 in 6th. 5th gear is .71 and 6th is .61 on my Allison.
Your ZF6 6th gear is .72, 2,120 if you had my 3.73 and tires going 75. I do notice that transmission would be nice if your pulling heavy. I pursued it and honestly didn't want to change the driveline and get a new transfercase and so on. I had a 6 speed Cummings and loved it. Im sure your ahead of me when thinking about the gears. It is fun to throw different combinations and see what the results will be. Im basically building a rig that will have an insulated box on my ranch hand bed. I will utilize it like an open camper concept that I can put on and remove when needed. I will also pull a small trailer with a side by side on it. I have another beast I use to pull a gooseneck around with a backhoe or farm tractor. I may pull the gooseneck from time to time with this build though. Im researching the different radiator/intercooler kits available for a duramax.I will eventually purchase one and most likely have to move it forward alot.... I would like to keep the manual fan. Are you keeping the manual fan? You have a larger engine bay and gour also adapting the transmission brackets. Im anxious to get my hands back on the engine and figure all this out. I really dont eant to go to electric fans. But I will see what I will need to do. For the oil cooler, I was researching upgrades on the market for modern trucks. I haven't really compared the cooling capacity from modern trucks to whats available stock wise for the allis 301. However its pretty significant Im assuming. Of course the cost as well. You spoke about pistons. I also researched increasing the bore. My conclusion was to stick with the stock.I was also going to have forged pistons built. That is expensive. It would of costed at least 3400. However forged pistons, often do not have the top ring that cleans the bore. And the conclusion was that the engine would actually last longer with a stock rebuild kit. Given the build was reasonable. That can be negotiable what that actually is. But south of 400 hp, is what Im thinking. Ive basically concluded that based off cummins builds. There is just alot more info on them. So Im going with cast pistons. And Im shifting my budget to the cooling side of things. Im not really going after as much hp as I can get. I do want to find it where I can. Right now Ive read the stock head flows around 110. That was on this forum.. I ported the head myself... and surprisingly the machinist thinks it will pass.. yeah I was nervous about that one. Curious what the flow increased to. I haven't found anyone else posting bech test results. Apparently tractor pull guys have tuned them up significantly, but them dudes are not posting about it from what I can find. I have owned alot of trucks and a 2001 powerstroke I had plenty of power. Which was around 250hp and 500 lb of torque. At the end of the day, if I acheive that it will be a success. Im highly confident it will be much higher than that. |
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Randy Magnum
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Joined: 22 Nov 2023 Location: Northeast Ohio Points: 11 |
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Posted: 24 Jul 2026 at 5:55pm |
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I have a question about cylinder heads on 301, maybe a bit off topic, but not way off. Core shift in the bowls was terrible, was all that material intended to affect swirl or turbulence of the intake air? Will I do anything negative if I at least make them all uniform?
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 23484 |
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Posted: 24 Jul 2026 at 9:32pm |
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There is more than one cylinder head casting from 1964 until 1985. The oldest heads had a "crescent" milled into the intake valve opening trying to start the incoming air swirling around the O.D. of the cylinder sleeve. Pretty sure by the late 1960's they quit doing that. So, they must have felt turbocharger boost was starting the air turbulence good enough. I know IH 400 series engines had a high-swirl cylinder head like on the D-414/436 engines and it was different than a DT-414/436 cylinder head.
Edited by DrAllis - 24 Jul 2026 at 10:42pm |
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Randy Magnum
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Joined: 22 Nov 2023 Location: Northeast Ohio Points: 11 |
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Posted: 26 Jul 2026 at 4:13pm |
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Thank you! Now I don’t feel bad doing a little clean up work. I know it won’t make much difference, but I’ll have fun. 😁
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