Allis 301 mods for pickup truck
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
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URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=168609
Printed Date: 18 Sep 2026 at 6:21am
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Topic: Allis 301 mods for pickup truck
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Subject: Allis 301 mods for pickup truck
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2020 at 10:22pm
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I have a 301 diesel out of a 7000 tractor that I am going to install in a 3/4 ton pickup truck. Truck will be used by me to bum around town and once in a while haul a gooseneck trailer to a tractor show. The plan is to get this engine mated with a manual transmission and one the powertrain is complete, then find a truck to swap this into. Some of the highways here have 70mph limits on now so I go almost 80 and will need to find trans and differential that can achieve that speed. 5 speed or 6 speed maybe? Also need ideas on any modifications of improvements i should make to this engine for the truck application. I plan to run 15w40 oil and change every 5000 miles. The engine was rebuilt 8 years ago and sat in the workshop ever since. Turns over but is stiff. I plan to remove the oil pan to inspect bearings and for condensation rust. Questions: A. Should I worry about the copper sleeves for the injectors? I have a 190/180 head here I could throw on. B. Should I do any work to the inj pump or injectors for the truck application? (they have been rebuilt) C. I would like to increase the hp closer to 200hp if possible without making the engine prone to self-destruct. D. Can i increase the RPMs closer to 3000? the tag on the pump says 2200rpm. E. And how much torque does this engine make at peak torque RPM and Max RPM? I searched all day for a # and failed to find it.   ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Replies:
Posted By: Michael V (NM)
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2020 at 10:32pm
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First thing I would do is get a SAE bell housing, go with a Allison OD auto,they'll prolly be a 6 speed...or you could use a Eaton fuller OD trans..then figure out what rear gears that will cruise at 70-80mph interstate speeds... 3000 rpm?? I thought most were rated at 23-2500... |
Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2020 at 10:53pm
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you really need to talk to Ed....between pump and turbo you can probably make livable HP/TQ closer 2400 and keep it alive. 3 grand might not last but I'm no expert there.
Sam from Ga put a 433 in a pickup once.Don't remember details.
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Posted By: DiyDave
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 5:00am
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https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=16410" rel="nofollow - https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=16410
------------- Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need! |
Posted By: Gary Burnett
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 5:19am
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Why do people want to put tractor motors in vehicles and vehicle motors in tractors? Can't see any clear cut advantage to doing either one.
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Posted By: jaybmiller
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 5:44am
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re: why... just like climbing a mountain, because they can ?? maybe because it's 'different' or 'cool' ? I KNOW I lost big time , tossing the V8 into my CJ-5 , and that was a factory option..Impressive highway speed but no darn good offroad or snowplowing. Have to admit, the older I get (66 now) the less I want to do 'projects' , though maybe fixin the left brake on D14 would be good ? Hmm, that new tire is loaded,+-600#s,need to drain out, makes a mess, axle full,can't drain ,nuther mess of oil,everything is heavy,just had toe operated on,hmmm, oh yeah a 'Shameless donation' today..... think i'll wait a bit, Spring's in 22 days anyway, 'need' tractor by then...maybe I'll wait a bit, Summr ? ------------- 3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112 Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
Posted By: injpumpEd
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 7:25am
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Well, there is no way to turn the fuel system up enough without tearing it back apart, and the injector tips switched to the 7010/7020 larger tips than the 7000. They are the larger of the 2 styles for mark 2 heads, guessing it has Allis injectors, not Bosch. 200 hp and 3000 hi idle is very doable, and in a pickup it will be fine, but you may be disappointed at not being able to run 80 mph, or with a big tractor on a gooseneck. I would lean to a 1/2 ton for this small of an engine. S200 turbo woould make a nice upgrade too. ------------- 210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers! |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 8:12am
| Automatic transmission will perform better because when you shift with a stick you lose boost and have to rebuild that same boost over and over. Automatic will keep the engine boosted up all the time. I believe your choice of a 301 for engine size is much too small for what you expect the performance to be. I drove a company truck with a 3126 Cat engine that was rated at 230 HP @ 2500 RPM with 660 ft lbs of torque at 1400 RPM's. It was more than adequate for a truck that weighed 25,000 lbs day after day and regularly got 10 MPG. I think even a 426 T&I with 7080 ratings is only 210 HP with 400/450 ft lbs of torque and a 301 is waaaay less than that. |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 8:55am
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Yeah, I'm not going to win any speed or power contests with the truck, I knew that goin into this project. I'm going to drive around town with it, and pull a gooseneck trailer once or twice a year. For my main hauling truck, I have a 1995 7.3 with 5-speed which loses boost when shifting and I'm fine with it. None of my trucks are beat or abused and this one won't be maxed out either. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Todd AL
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 9:25am
| Honestly, a DT466 out of a bus or truck would be way easier, and get you what you want. I get the Allis connection, but unless you have cubic dollars, and a lot of fabricating skills, it will be a challenge. Good luck. |
Posted By: ac fleet
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 9:39am
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The ONLY thing after all this mess is cobbled together is the failure of the end product, BUT it's your money and time so go for it! --- That baby engine will not do what you think it will! --- sorry! ------------- http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/ |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 10:10am
| my frends dad had a intercooleled turbo charged 301 in a 74 lincoln continental it had an allisiion trans that was back in the early 80s the car was a gold color and most of the turbo stuck out of the hood the fab work was excelant thats about all i can remember |
Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 11:04am
| Id keep going with your thoughts and project, gearing will help, may not have top mph but itd be fun ,those are good engines and itd be cool to light em up with an AC 301 |
Posted By: DanWi
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 2:57pm
| I think it is a neat promotional idea for your business I say go for it. I would think with the right gearing overdrive transmission you could get a 75 to 80 cruising speed at 2000 rpm. Might not be the puller you are hoping for but still be a good parts chaser. |
Posted By: Boss Man
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 8:32pm
| In a truck you won't be using full Horse Power all the time like you would a tractor so I would think the motor would take it. Small motor pulling a trailer = more gears. Figure out a way to put a twin stick in it and and shift away. |
Posted By: tbran
Date Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 9:19pm
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Tom Silver did this many years ago - miserable until he put a second trans in back wards ! this was a way to pull what he wanted - keep in mind you will only have 80 hp until you get to 1800 RPM. Loaded it was constant shifting. Docs idea of the auto is the way to go. You have a way to go - vacuum pump, motor mounts - I would use a light flywheel with a torque converter or some a clutch with the auto - don't like that idea to much involved. Using an auto automatic you have to have a kit to do this - it can get complicated pulling a load. A cable shifted automatic would be the best with a low stall TC.. IF you follow through with this an air to air intercooler would be nice . As to RPM's a constant speed over 2500 scares me... that is throwing a lot of weight around for a long time. Pulling at high rpm is for short time - a few seconds - long runs are a different horse.. IF you want to live on the edge - don't flog the fuel pump - keep it livable - look at some of the diesel hot rod series - nitrous and propane for short bursts - limit it to a theoretical 200 hp for a few seconds for your fun. How much can you add? Just keep adding fuel til you leave metal chunks on the road then back off a bit :-) Just food for thought. ------------- When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money.. |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 3:45pm
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Alex09(WI), How did your truck turn out? If you used the 301, what trans & differential ratio did you go with? And, what kind of miles per gallon is it getting? |
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 25 Jun 2023 at 9:21pm
| Put a Cummins in it. Either way, weight on front axel will need to be addressed. MACK |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2023 at 1:35pm
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Truck is not together yet. Have the engine and 1984 chevy 3/4 ton pickup. The holdup is trying to find a NV5600 transmission. Have been watching for 2 years and nothing for sale except one that want a core in return. I may have to settle for The firewall will need to be modified to accommodate the longer engine of the 301. This is not going to be as fast as a project as I hoped. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2023 at 1:37pm
Glad to hear of your support! But really, its people like you that give me the motivation to get this project finished and the satisfaction after it is completed. Thanks again ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
ac fleet wrote:Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2023 at 1:40pm
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Just to be clear here, the #1 objective is not PERFORMANCE. It is the cool factor. #2 objective is functional, must start, run and drive. Which it will when I am done with it. Everything else is secondary to the main objective. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2023 at 1:50pm
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this reminds me of the story about the F4 Phantom when it first came out..... Story was ..." This is the military's proof to the world that given enough $$ and HP even a BRICK can fly ".. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 29 Jun 2023 at 3:53pm
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If you have any interest in an Allison Automatic, I have an AT-545 that I would sell. It was a take out from a school bus that I had plans for that will never happen at my age, It is complete with, torque converter, bellhousing and starter that fits a 5.9 Cummins. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: Allis Silver Pony
Date Posted: 11 Jul 2026 at 4:05pm
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Heyfound your posts. Hope the project is coming along well. I have a similar one. Oh and the critism never ends does it. Just go with the Cummins, its so much easier...blah blah blah. I get it though. So anyways, let me tell you about my project so far. I have been away from it for a while. But Im slowly working on it. Allis chalmers 301 Ported head Tuned fuel pump 198cc Allison 1000 transmission 2007.5 GMC 3500 The engine is completely apart and has been cleaned. I gave it a acid bath. I was very impressed with how it cleaned up. I painted the block and head red. I know honestly I could only get my hands on red. It looks sharp. New injectors to match the pump flow. Im ggoing to build a new manifold and working with a shop to put twin turbos on. This will allow me to capture a powerband down low and up top. I ported the head. And its at a shop currently getting new valve seats and planed. The machist ordered aftermarket valve springs. The stock springs were somewhere around 40lbs closed and 80lbs open. Given that its going to have 35psi boost. I needed something closer to 100 lbs closed and 200lbs opened. Anxious to see what he ordered. Its a project I want to focus on, but its gona take some time. Lets get to the allis transmission. Obviously its the transmission that came with the truck. And the transfer case. The transmission is an excellent one. Going to beef it up a little bit. Since it has plenty of miles on it anyways. Lockup converter and its currently a 5 speed. Its possible to go from 5 to 6 on these. I plan to go to the 6. This is exciting and definitely love making progress when I can. Critics will harass us to no end and it makes the end all that more valuable. Trust me digging into this just doeshave the suuport on literature and aftermarket that cummins does. And yeah if we were to take a 5.9 and tune it up we could and get alot more potential out of it. A P7100 on a 5.9 has somewhere around 800cc fuel delivery capability. But thats insane. This DB is tuned to 198cc. Im not really sure off the top of my head what a stock one is for a 7020 tractor. But its significantly more cc. Every part is pretty expensive. The cooling for this bad boy is gona be something. Gona put a intercooler and large oil cooler. Anyways your idea of what I have heard is solid. |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 11:01am
That is what brought about Dodge buying 6BT Tractor/industrial engines to put in the 1989 pickups. The legend began, everyone wanted a REAL diesel, that would run forever. When Ford brought an engine from International that was not the phenomenal success that Ford had hope for. Yes they sold a lot of diesels to die hard Ford fans, but they didn't get crossover customers that they invisioned. So they kept on buying different International diesels and the story remains the same. Same goes for Chevy/GMC. you would have thought they learned their lesson with the 350 diesel fiasco of the late 70s. So now all you ford and Chevy/GMC diehards, Why are there many full kit bolt in options for replacing the Powerjokes and Duracraps with a Cummins, but NO kits to replace a Cummins with anything? I can imagine that a properly AC 301 with a Overdrive transmission rear combination could be a good overall fuel efficient setup. I could like the Allison with maybe an auxilliary OD/D/U and a rear ratio to give a desired top speed without being gearbound. I have a currently unused 6BT, Allison. I'm just looking for a 3 ton 49-51 Dodge or? and an auxilliary to put everything together ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 1:05pm
| Recent quarterly 2026 diesel pickup truck sales are: Ford 89,540 units.....Chevy/GMC combined were 50,080.....Ram was 25,716. Cummins engines have always helped sell Dodge/Ram trucks for sure, but are a long way behind Ford. |
Posted By: HudCo
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 1:28pm
| be realy cool and find a little three or four speed brownie to go behind that main gear box that will give you some gears then you could just use a four speed main |
Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 1:47pm
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Ive got a 88 gmc ton 4 door ton truck with 454 and the rear end is 4.56. It came with a 400 automatic which is direct drive. It was turning 3000 going 55 mph. I put a 4L80E in it. Now its about 2200 at 55 and about 2500 at 65. It works great in that truck. Assuming 24 or 2500 rpm for a 301 for longevity id say 3.73 or 4.10 rear axle ratio it would work out but it stiil would have to have a overdrive transmission ------------- 1984 80780 1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor |
Posted By: PaulB
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 2:56pm
Go back to the late 80s and see how the numbers changed from a decade earlier and how they continue over the years. There will always be hard-heads that will stick with whatever their great grandfather had and those that can see a better way. I also know of some that will buy whatever is cheaper, even by a hundred dollars or less. Major companies are the first that comes to mind. I'm not saying Dodge has the best P/U but they are the only one selling a real HD diesel. just compare the internal parts side by side. I seen stronger looking rods for a Hemi than a Powerjoke or Duracrap has. ------------- If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere. Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 5:00pm
| I guess I've never heard of a Ford or Duramax making a habit of failing connecting rods. So, they must be heavy enough ?? Gayle Banks has about 14 u-tube videos of all the things he did to a new DuraMax engine to increase the HP. The last episode I saw he had just broken into 1,000+ HP on the Dyno and the cylinder heads, pistons, crankshaft and connecting rods were STOCK. |
Posted By: 55allis
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 6:13pm
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My brother, my dad, and me have duramax’s and haven’t had too bad of luck. Mine is a 2004 LB7 (just got it earlier this year) as a non runner (it did run the day before I went to look/ test drive it) and put around 2k-3k into it (failed computer and injector) with a full service and waterpump. Now it needs a power steering pump. I thought about finding an old 3/4 ton pickup and putting a Allis Chalmers 426 in it but I really like my duramax now. ------------- 1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD, 1963 A-C D17 series 3, several Allis garden tractors 
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Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 6:27pm
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Recent quarterly 2026 diesel pickup truck sales are: Ford 89,540 units.....Chevy/GMC combined were 50,080.....Ram was 25,716. Cummins engines have always helped sell Dodge/Ram trucks for sure, but are a long way behind Ford.. without the CUMMINS, Dodge sales would be MINIMAL... thats all they got going for them. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: SamT-Ga
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2026 at 11:35pm
| Back in 1983 I put a 433I from F2 in a 72 Chevy C10. Used a combine flywheel, Ford pressure plate and clutch will bolt right to it, had to make adapter for pilot brg. Ran injection pump like it was set for combine. It had power like a 292 gas engine. used Ford overdrive trans out of F150 with 300 inline 6. In 1984 drove to west coast and back with 10 ft cabover camper, could only run in 3rd, direct gear. pedal to the medal 2450 rpm and 58 mph getting 15.8 mpg. Ther were pictures on here at one time. I called it my "Allisfordolet" truck. |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2026 at 5:31am
I agree 100%. And it probably is only going to get worse with Stellantis (Fiat) owning Chrysler.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2026 at 5:42pm
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Since this is an ancient thread that has already gone off track, I'll add my 2 cents  Back in the 70's a neighbor put a 4-53T Detroit Diesel in a Bumpside Ford Highboy 4x4; it was noisy, stinky, and slow but he drove it for 30 years a 200K+ miles getting right at 20 MPG when diesel was cheaper than gasoline. That's the only diesel pickup I've ever had a hankerin' for, but I'm certainly not going to pull the 300 I6 out of my 74 F-350 to have one. |
Posted By: steve(ill)
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2026 at 6:37pm
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that old 300 - 6 is hard to beat... SIMPLE , CHEAP, EASY to work on... Runs FOREVER. ------------- Like them all, but love the "B"s. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2026 at 9:10pm
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Hate on my 2007 Ram all you want, but it’s given me 19 years of trouble free service. Yep, it’s got a Cummins heart but the rest of the truck has been rock solid for 154k miles. A lot of those miles the truck has had a trailer of some type or 5th wheel camper behind it. I bought it new to pull loads that I needed it to and it has served me well. My XT looks quite nice on my gooseneck going down the road behind it. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: WF owner
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2026 at 5:10am
| If it has given you that many years of trouble free service, I am bettting it does not have an automatic transmission. |
Posted By: AC720Man
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2026 at 7:37am
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Still has the original trans in it. I installed a high capacity oil pan on it. I did replace the AC unit 2 years ago, forgot about that. It receives regular maintenance and I only use OEM filters and oil. ------------- 1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD |
Posted By: 8070nc
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2026 at 11:00am
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I dont want to step in a pile here but i dont see how it matters what brand a person uses. If it works for them have at it. Im not a fan of other tractir brands tha AC but a lot of families have been raised and children fed with other brands Thank God ------------- 1984 80780 1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor |
Posted By: Alex09(WI)
Date Posted: 17 Jul 2026 at 9:08pm
Ignoring all the other garbage posted here, i've made progress on the project: The 7000 engine I was using ended up being not rebuilt like the previous owner said... So I'm starting again on the engine, this time from scratch. I am using a engine block with piston cooler jets in the main bearing saddles. Maroon 7000 engine block. Question 1 for those more knowledgeable then I: Would a 7010, 7020 or 8010 engine block be more beneficial to start with? I am using the 190/180 cylinder head without the copper injector tubes. It will be 6 less things to cause issues. And I will almost certainly have the head ported and polished for better airflow. I am using a large engine oil cooler from M2 combine engine to help keep the engine oil cooler, and thus life expectancy improved. I am using an air to air intercooler in front of the radiator. I have a CAV/simms inline injection pump from a M2 combine engine getting rebuilt right now for use on this engine. I may have to use larger fuel lines depending on the CC output of the pump. I might try the stock combine governor like Sam from GA did with the 433I, it sounds like it preformed well for him. I plan to use stock injectors with 7080 nozzles, but may have to use bigger nozzles. Won't know till the pump is figured out. I am having the rotating assy balanced for engine longevity. The connecting rods are getting hardened at this time. I plan to use a fluid dampner on the front of the crankshaft. Question 2 for those more knowledgable than I: Will a new fluid dampner for an 8070 work well for this application? I may have to machine a 180 pulley into a hub for the dampner. I will use the crankshaft driven oil pump with big oil pan. Considering making the oil pan bigger for more oil capacity, hopefully keeping it a littler cooler. Still on the fence about using stock 301 pistons. I am exploring oversize piston/sleeve options. I can't find anything definite in the pulling section about 1/16" or 1/8" oversize pistons and sleeves that will drop in the 301 block with minimal machining. I have a rebuilt 7000 turbo ready to install when the time comes, may need to change later but its a good starting point. Ideas I am still considering and haven't finalized yet: I am considering turning the exhaust manifold upside down to keep the height of the engine lower to use a stock hood. Also considering fabricating an air scoop into the hood to force a bit of air through the filter and into the turbo at high speeds. Do I use a 7020 intercooled manifold with or without the core... My engine will be built for longevity and more power. The difference in this one vs an ag tractor or puller is it will be under 100% load only 5-10% of the time. I estimate it will be under less than 50% load most of the running time. I am planning for 300hp @ 3000rpms and I expect the engine to last a long time with my modifications running under the lighter conditions stated. Ideal road rpms are 2200-2400 in 6th gear. The truck is purchased. Its a 1984 chevy K20 factory diesel, was running and driving. I sold the engine and transmission out of it. The engine bay is pretty roomy. Will see how the engine fits. The transmission is purchased. Its a ZF6 out of a 2003 ford f250 with 7.3 diesel. ------------- www.awtractor.com A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287 KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 18 Jul 2026 at 6:06pm
| #1. A newer engine block casting would probably be advised for 3 turbos and 150 psi of boost. Not needed for what you're trying to do. Polishing and porting of the cylinder head ports will probably do nothing more than make you feel like you did something. No provable results. Removal of enough material, in the end, actually could weaken the cyl head structure. #2. Fluid damper would be fine, but again a good rubber style with 3 or maybe 4 grooves (combine pulley) would be adequate I think, if there is room. Remember, the damper only controls engine harmonics when at their worst, which would be at the highest HP and highest RPM and at the same time. It's got nothing to do with engine "balance". Stock deep oil pan is 4 gallons with two spin-on filters. That's plenty. Oil temps?? The oil cooler actually sees to it the engine oil temp is at least 180 degrees minimum and tries to keep it at whatever coolant temps are. A 10 gallon oil pan will still probably be that 180+ degree oil temp. 220 degrees isn't too hot according to what I've been taught. A large enough capacity radiator is imperative to keep things down to that 180 degree number. Pistons would be best served at 15 to 1 compression for longer service life. The 200-7000-7010-7020-M2/3 engines used these. Cold starts will be compromised some, but the bottom end of the engine will really thank you. There aren't drop-in over-bore parts available for these engines. I've made pistons and sleeves to 4.500" bore size for a 301, which makes 405 cubes, but they would never work/last in your application. And also require massive block boring which weakens the block structure. 7020 intake manifold?? might add to some turbo lag and again it might not. Today, there are far better turbo choices than anything A-C offered from 40 years ago. A 7000 turbo will never handle 300 HP. Air-to-air would be better performing than a hot coolant type intercooler. My exhaust manifold would be straight out of the center cylinder head port to the turbo (zero bends !!) and then make the other two port runners meet the center one, again minimal bends and keep the diameters of the runners SMALL, virtually matching the cyl head port size. I make them with 1/4" wall steel pipe that I can buy locally. Heat treated conn rods?? I wouldn't worry about that. At 500 HP maybe. Good luck with the project. |
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2026 at 9:14am
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A 2003 ZF6 has a high gear ratio of 0.72:1. A stock 1984 K20 could have a 3,42, 3.73, or 4.10 axle ratio. It’s tire size could be 235/85R16. So using those numbers, engine rpms of 2200 & 2400 should yield the following; 84.29 - 91.95 mph @ 3.42 gears, 77.29 - 84.31 mph @ 3.73 gears, 70.31 - 76.7 mph @ 4.10 gears. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 19 Jul 2026 at 10:47pm
| Some quick math comes up with this: Looks like about 525 ft lbs at the flywheel @ 2,800 to 3,000 RPM will get you 300 flywheel HP. Max factory rating on a 649-TI is 155 HP @ 2,600 RPM / 312 ft lbs of torque. That fluid damper would probably be a better choice, as it is made to run in that 450-500 ft lbs range @ 2800 RPM. |
Posted By: Allis Silver Pony
Date Posted: 23 Jul 2026 at 3:46pm
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Apears we have similar goals in mind with our builds. I cant answer your questions... if they were directed to me.. Im new to the forum. I haven't put hands on the project for a while. Im hoping to get back to it around September. I also need a damper, which I believe you were researching. I definitely would like to know if you figured out the best course. What are you doing to acheive 300 hp? So far I invested in a a modified fuel injection pump and new injectors. My BAR pressure is set at 262. I will also build a manifold and put compound turbos on to give me a broad powerband. Its going to be a while before the project is completed. I know that ZF6 will be nice. My allison 1000 is gona be much more complicated and its automatic. It might loose alot of the fun factor... but I like its highway manners. I believe you said you would be at 2200 rpm on the highway.. with my Allison I should be closer to 1940 in 5th and 1620 in 6th. 5th gear is .71 and 6th is .61 on my Allison. Your ZF6 6th gear is .72, 2,120 if you had my 3.73 and tires going 75. I do notice that transmission would be nice if your pulling heavy. I pursued it and honestly didn't want to change the driveline and get a new transfercase and so on. I had a 6 speed Cummings and loved it. Im sure your ahead of me when thinking about the gears. It is fun to throw different combinations and see what the results will be. Im basically building a rig that will have an insulated box on my ranch hand bed. I will utilize it like an open camper concept that I can put on and remove when needed. I will also pull a small trailer with a side by side on it. I have another beast I use to pull a gooseneck around with a backhoe or farm tractor. I may pull the gooseneck from time to time with this build though. Im researching the different radiator/intercooler kits available for a duramax.I will eventually purchase one and most likely have to move it forward alot.... I would like to keep the manual fan. Are you keeping the manual fan? You have a larger engine bay and gour also adapting the transmission brackets. Im anxious to get my hands back on the engine and figure all this out. I really dont eant to go to electric fans. But I will see what I will need to do. For the oil cooler, I was researching upgrades on the market for modern trucks. I haven't really compared the cooling capacity from modern trucks to whats available stock wise for the allis 301. However its pretty significant Im assuming. Of course the cost as well. You spoke about pistons. I also researched increasing the bore. My conclusion was to stick with the stock.I was also going to have forged pistons built. That is expensive. It would of costed at least 3400. However forged pistons, often do not have the top ring that cleans the bore. And the conclusion was that the engine would actually last longer with a stock rebuild kit. Given the build was reasonable. That can be negotiable what that actually is. But south of 400 hp, is what Im thinking. Ive basically concluded that based off cummins builds. There is just alot more info on them. So Im going with cast pistons. And Im shifting my budget to the cooling side of things. Im not really going after as much hp as I can get. I do want to find it where I can. Right now Ive read the stock head flows around 110. That was on this forum.. I ported the head myself... and surprisingly the machinist thinks it will pass.. yeah I was nervous about that one. Curious what the flow increased to. I haven't found anyone else posting bech test results. Apparently tractor pull guys have tuned them up significantly, but them dudes are not posting about it from what I can find. I have owned alot of trucks and a 2001 powerstroke I had plenty of power. Which was around 250hp and 500 lb of torque. At the end of the day, if I acheive that it will be a success. Im highly confident it will be much higher than that. |
Posted By: Randy Magnum
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2026 at 5:55pm
| I have a question about cylinder heads on 301, maybe a bit off topic, but not way off. Core shift in the bowls was terrible, was all that material intended to affect swirl or turbulence of the intake air? Will I do anything negative if I at least make them all uniform? |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 24 Jul 2026 at 9:32pm
| There is more than one cylinder head casting from 1964 until 1985. The oldest heads had a "crescent" milled into the intake valve opening trying to start the incoming air swirling around the O.D. of the cylinder sleeve. Pretty sure by the late 1960's they quit doing that. So, they must have felt turbocharger boost was starting the air turbulence good enough. I know IH 400 series engines had a high-swirl cylinder head like on the D-414/436 engines and it was different than a DT-414/436 cylinder head. |
Posted By: Randy Magnum
Date Posted: 26 Jul 2026 at 4:13pm
| Thank you! Now I don’t feel bad doing a little clean up work. I know it won’t make much difference, but I’ll have fun. 😁 |