| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
WD45thingonlyruns 
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Mar 2025
Location: Glen Rock
Points: 8
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: PTO shaft/transmission leak on a WD45
Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:27pm |
I own a 1956 WD45 gas that has a trans. leak that is steadily going back. From what I can tell, I think it's from the first PTO shaft seal; can't really tell. Anyone got any advice or tips for repair/replace? Can I just delete the PTO in general from the trans. or hydro. pump? Help needed, please.
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
Allis dave
Orange Level
Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2965
|
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:30pm |
|
Get some towels and break clean and clean everything up and find where the leak is coming from. You can drop off the bottom PO gearbox and delete if you want. It's not hard to put a couple gaskets and a seal into it and fix the leaks.
|
|
WD45thingonlyruns
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Mar 2025
Location: Glen Rock
Points: 8
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:33pm |
Ok thank you. But I have bigger fish to fry first; my entire left rim is basically non-existent.
|
|
WD45thingonlyruns
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Mar 2025
Location: Glen Rock
Points: 8
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:35pm |
How hard are seals to find for that spot if I had time to replace?
|
|
Allis dave
Orange Level
Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2965
|
Post Options
Thanks(1)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 7:06am |
|
I don't remember where I got mine 10 years ago. You'd need the gasket for that 2 bolt flange and hte seal. It's also likely your leaking old between the PTO box and the upper torque tube. Check that and It's not hard to do that gasket at the same time.
I think AGCO has them, Steiner, DJ's tractor and probably other here on the site.
They are very available
|
|
WD45thingonlyruns
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Mar 2025
Location: Glen Rock
Points: 8
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 12:24pm |
|
Thanks. Any recommendations on how to take apart my hydro. pump without it exploding in my hands? Either it's seized or the linkage is the linkage alone is seized. I haven't tried to do anything for fear that I'll lose parts or break it inadvertently. If it is seized, do you know where I could find parts and what prices would look like? I don't mind used parts, just as long as they're not used to the point of questionable reliability. Also, my starter is in a really weird position, especially the switch, almost like somebody sent to get rebuilt or just slapped the wrong switch on and said, "Eh, whatever. I don't mind having to stand around the axle housing and push the starter swicth itself with my hands." It was definitely a pull switch at some point, but somebody made it a push switch and didn't bother to change the starter linkage at all.
|
|
Allis dave
Orange Level
Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2965
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 1:01pm |
I rebuilt my pump about 10 years ago also. First think to do is to go throguh the operator's manual and make sure all the linkage is free and adjusted correctly. There is a specific war to set in the linkage in the book. Beyond that, get an Allis WD45 service manual is explains everything about how the pump works and how to rebuild. Most of the pump parts are still available from AGCO
I don't have any advice about the starter. It might just be clocked wrong and could be turned. They used similar starters on many different tractors. Your's may have been replaced from a different model tractor
|
|
Les Kerf
Orange Level
Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1009
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 5:21pm |
 WD45thingonlyruns wrote:
... Also, my starter is in a really weird position, especially the switch, almost like somebody sent to get rebuilt or just slapped the wrong switch on and said, "Eh, whatever. I don't mind having to stand around the axle housing and push the starter swicth itself with my hands." It was definitely a pull switch at some point, but somebody made it a push switch and didn't bother to change the starter linkage at all. |
The starter on a WD45 can be re-assembled 180 degrees wrong; I'm not sure if it would work at all or not like that  Also, the Model B & C starters are similar (the housings are the same and they use different pinion gears) but they are clocked at a different angle by having the holes drilled in different places.
Not quite sure what you may have, photos are most helpful with this type of problem.
Edited by Les Kerf - 12 Mar 2025 at 5:22pm
|
|
SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8409
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 9:32pm |
|
The switch is a push button and a pivot piece is pinned to it. The rod pulls the little lever and pushes the switch
|
|
Allis dave
Orange Level
Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2965
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 8:17am |
|
You're descripton of the button, lever and pull rod sounds like how an original WD45 was supposed to be. When sitting on the seat, the push botton on the start would be around the 2:00 or 3:00 position. I don't remember exacty where, but close to that.
|
|
WD45thingonlyruns
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Mar 2025
Location: Glen Rock
Points: 8
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 8:41am |
|
It starts and runs fine, but I should be able to get photos this weekend. Maybe a video, if I want to risk obliterating what's left of the non-existent rim. I can also get the Delco-Remy part# for you guys.
|
|
WD45thingonlyruns
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Mar 2025
Location: Glen Rock
Points: 8
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 8:55am |
Mine's cocked around the 10 or 11 o'clock position. Definitly not around the 2 or 3.
|
|
Les Kerf
Orange Level
Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
Points: 1009
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 10:02am |
WD45thingonlyruns wrote:
Mine's cocked around the 10 or 11 o'clock position. Definitly not around the 2 or 3. |
Hmmm... I wonder if that may be a starter nose cone for a Model B/C
I needed a nose cone for my Model C and I had on hand a WD nose cone that had the mounting hole buggered. I re-drilled holes so as to rotate the nose cone to the correct position for the Model C. I cannot recall the exact amount of degrees of rotation this required, but it was roughly what you describe.
|
|
Allis dave
Orange Level
Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2965
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 4:20pm |
|
There were also some John Deere's and maybe others that used almost the exact same starter.
|
|
WD45thingonlyruns
Bronze Level
Joined: 11 Mar 2025
Location: Glen Rock
Points: 8
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 17 Mar 2025 at 8:36am |
|
The actual button itself that mounts to the starter shell is facing towards the engine, so even if I re-drilled it it would still be a push starter, correct me if I'm wrong, but kinda like the old Fords. If the engine was spun so that you were sitting behind the radiator and the gas tank was where the front rad. sheet metal is, you'd be able to have a pull starter. Either way it's not gonna be a pull start switch. I don't know how to explain it. Sorry I can't post some pictures.
Edited by WD45thingonlyruns - 17 Mar 2025 at 8:43am
|
|
