PTO shaft/transmission leak on a WD45
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=205814
Printed Date: 07 Jun 2025 at 4:56am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: PTO shaft/transmission leak on a WD45
Posted By: WD45thingonlyruns
Subject: PTO shaft/transmission leak on a WD45
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:27pm
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I own a 1956 WD45 gas that has a trans. leak that is steadily going back. From what I can tell, I think it's from the first PTO shaft seal; can't really tell. Anyone got any advice or tips for repair/replace? Can I just delete the PTO in general from the trans. or hydro. pump? Help needed, please.
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Replies:
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:30pm
| Get some towels and break clean and clean everything up and find where the leak is coming from. You can drop off the bottom PO gearbox and delete if you want. It's not hard to put a couple gaskets and a seal into it and fix the leaks. |
Posted By: WD45thingonlyruns
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:33pm
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Ok thank you. But I have bigger fish to fry first; my entire left rim is basically non-existent. |
Posted By: WD45thingonlyruns
Date Posted: 11 Mar 2025 at 1:35pm
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How hard are seals to find for that spot if I had time to replace? |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 7:06am
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I don't remember where I got mine 10 years ago. You'd need the gasket for that 2 bolt flange and hte seal. It's also likely your leaking old between the PTO box and the upper torque tube. Check that and It's not hard to do that gasket at the same time. I think AGCO has them, Steiner, DJ's tractor and probably other here on the site. They are very available |
Posted By: WD45thingonlyruns
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 12:24pm
| Thanks. Any recommendations on how to take apart my hydro. pump without it exploding in my hands? Either it's seized or the linkage is the linkage alone is seized. I haven't tried to do anything for fear that I'll lose parts or break it inadvertently. If it is seized, do you know where I could find parts and what prices would look like? I don't mind used parts, just as long as they're not used to the point of questionable reliability. Also, my starter is in a really weird position, especially the switch, almost like somebody sent to get rebuilt or just slapped the wrong switch on and said, "Eh, whatever. I don't mind having to stand around the axle housing and push the starter swicth itself with my hands." It was definitely a pull switch at some point, but somebody made it a push switch and didn't bother to change the starter linkage at all. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 1:01pm
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I rebuilt my pump about 10 years ago also. First think to do is to go throguh the operator's manual and make sure all the linkage is free and adjusted correctly. There is a specific war to set in the linkage in the book. Beyond that, get an Allis WD45 service manual is explains everything about how the pump works and how to rebuild. Most of the pump parts are still available from AGCO I don't have any advice about the starter. It might just be clocked wrong and could be turned. They used similar starters on many different tractors. Your's may have been replaced from a different model tractor
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 5:21pm
The starter on a WD45 can be re-assembled 180 degrees wrong; I'm not sure if it would work at all or not like that  Also, the Model B & C starters are similar (the housings are the same and they use different pinion gears) but they are clocked at a different angle by having the holes drilled in different places.Not quite sure what you may have, photos are most helpful with this type of problem.
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WD45thingonlyruns wrote:Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2025 at 9:32pm
| The switch is a push button and a pivot piece is pinned to it. The rod pulls the little lever and pushes the switch |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2025 at 8:17am
| You're descripton of the button, lever and pull rod sounds like how an original WD45 was supposed to be. When sitting on the seat, the push botton on the start would be around the 2:00 or 3:00 position. I don't remember exacty where, but close to that. |
Posted By: WD45thingonlyruns
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 8:41am
| It starts and runs fine, but I should be able to get photos this weekend. Maybe a video, if I want to risk obliterating what's left of the non-existent rim. I can also get the Delco-Remy part# for you guys. |
Posted By: WD45thingonlyruns
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 8:55am
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Mine's cocked around the 10 or 11 o'clock position. Definitly not around the 2 or 3. |
Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 10:02am
Hmmm... I wonder if that may be a starter nose cone for a Model B/C I needed a nose cone for my Model C and I had on hand a WD nose cone that had the mounting hole buggered. I re-drilled holes so as to rotate the nose cone to the correct position for the Model C. I cannot recall the exact amount of degrees of rotation this required, but it was roughly what you describe. |
Posted By: Allis dave
Date Posted: 14 Mar 2025 at 4:20pm
| There were also some John Deere's and maybe others that used almost the exact same starter. |
Posted By: WD45thingonlyruns
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2025 at 8:36am
| The actual button itself that mounts to the starter shell is facing towards the engine, so even if I re-drilled it it would still be a push starter, correct me if I'm wrong, but kinda like the old Fords. If the engine was spun so that you were sitting behind the radiator and the gas tank was where the front rad. sheet metal is, you'd be able to have a pull starter. Either way it's not gonna be a pull start switch. I don't know how to explain it. Sorry I can't post some pictures. |
Posted By: WD45thingonlyruns
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 11:51am
The nose cone mounting hole is up at the 12 o'clock position and looks OK, and it doesn't look like it was ever lovingly edited at all. Due to my AMAZING act butterfingers  during reassembly after internal inspection, I managed to drop one of the little copper and wire anchor screws, the one where the screw anchors the wire and copper thing to the spring loaded resistor (I THINK) thing that connects the starter end shell cap thingy to the actual starter shell. I also now know that I'm just an idiot and my problems would've been solved simply by pulling a cotter pin, by the pull lever, and installing said part. I now need to know how or where I can obtain above said screw, because I don't know if I could simple pull the one copper thing and re-arrange them to have one ground and one positive, or two hots and one ground. I have all manuals (service, shop, and parts), but I can't really wrap my head around some of it. Help and advice are NEEDED.
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Posted By: Les Kerf
Date Posted: 05 Jun 2025 at 5:38pm
Attempting to translate: I believe the gadget to which you refer is probably the brush that rides upon the commutator (the copper bars on the armature). The brushes are held there by spring pressure, and it is imperative that they operate in pairs. If there are four brushes (two pair) then you must have all four brushes functioning properly. The screws should be commonly available sizes.
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