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Connecting rods

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mlpankey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 12:13pm
my pictures were of engines assembled not just parts laying around like yours wi .  Your always around like rob though learning from every post i  write from evey detail .  My students read kens post as well as Dr.

Edited by mlpankey - 25 Jan 2013 at 12:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 11:26am
I find it real hard to beleve that someone with so much self proclaimed knowledge isn't out winning hooks and only has a pile of junk to show for forgetting (not knowing) the most basic principels of engine design.  In his last thread I had to show pictures and explain in detail how to position rods, explain cap angles, etc in order to get enough clearance for his immaginary build.
 
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 10:44am
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

 again we have explored the reasoning through the thought provoking processes for answeres and alternative ways to accomplish

LOLLOL LOLLOLLOLLOLLOL 

Translation,,,
Another basic subject turned into a soap opera by the resident V. I.

Next is breathing and walking at the same time, stay tuned! 

 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 10:23am
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Originally posted by O.P.S. Heads O.P.S. Heads wrote:

My first post was really for Ed. He was  talking about hardened 426 rods so I thought I would chime in.  I sure as hell don't know it all and never claimed to, but Max Simpson probably does. He explained his process to me on the phone and it has worked well for us. Looking back on it all I should have just emailed Ed directly.
 
Pankenstein,
 
I have been a member on this board for about three weeks. I had read it many times prior to being a member and enjoyed most of the posts. I use to think some of the boys were just pickin on you, but it's obvious you have it coming. Damn boy, you need to tune in more and broadcast less. Make your rods however you want to. But for you to second guess a guy (Max) who has made more power than you could possibly conceive ( most recent - 5 consecutive time SSD NTPA champ - 426 block ) is just dumb. It is funny, you really don't know the knowledge of any posters here! OPS is one of the most knowledgeable guys on here. I'm thankful he finally joined, sharing his knowledge, not slamming everyone with arrogance.
i am more second guessing understanding what you say you saw .  you or max one is who doing someone but then again if someone doesnt know the fixture that holds the rod in place for boring they could possibly think its a press. I just dont know the knowledge of poster .but i dont see oblonging a circular hole doing much but making center harder to find.  never heard the phrase i rather be lucky than good. i guess either . It doesnt take much measuring on the bearing half either to know it oblongs the hole by design to do what i posted above . however it would require the use of machine shop measuring tools . eliminating key board pullers.
yeap one doesnt usually want to remove (excess material ) more than needed for cleanup in the parting line area due to there being less material there cause of rod bolts.
again we have explored the reasoning through the thought provoking processes for answeres and alternative ways to accomplish

Edited by mlpankey - 25 Jan 2013 at 10:25am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 10:21am
Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Originally posted by O.P.S. Heads O.P.S. Heads wrote:

My first post was really for Ed. He was  talking about hardened 426 rods so I thought I would chime in.  I sure as hell don't know it all and never claimed to, but Max Simpson probably does. He explained his process to me on the phone and it has worked well for us. Looking back on it all I should have just emailed Ed directly.
 
Pankenstein,
 
I have been a member on this board for about three weeks. I had read it many times prior to being a member and enjoyed most of the posts. I use to think some of the boys were just pickin on you, but it's obvious you have it coming. Damn boy, you need to tune in more and broadcast less. Make your rods however you want to. But for you to second guess a guy (Max) who has made more power than you could possibly conceive ( most recent - 5 consecutive time SSD NTPA champ - 426 block ) is just dumb. It is funny, you really don't know the knowledge of any posters here! OPS is one of the most knowledgeable guys on here. I'm thankful he finally joined, sharing his knowledge, not slamming everyone with arrogance.
i am more second guessing understanding what you say you saw .  you or max one is who doing someone but then again if someone doesnt know the fixture that holds the rod in place for boring they could possibly think its a press. I just dont know the knowledge of poster .but i dont see oblonging a circular hole doing much but making center harder to find.  never heard the phrase i rather be lucky than good. i guess either . It doesnt take much measuring on the bearing half either to know it oblongs the hole by design to do what i posted above . however it would require the use of machine shop measuring tools . eliminating key board pullers.
yeap one doesnt usually want to remove material in the parting line area due to there being less material there cause of rod bolts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 10:09am
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Originally posted by O.P.S. Heads O.P.S. Heads wrote:

My first post was really for Ed. He was  talking about hardened 426 rods so I thought I would chime in.  I sure as hell don't know it all and never claimed to, but Max Simpson probably does. He explained his process to me on the phone and it has worked well for us. Looking back on it all I should have just emailed Ed directly.
 
Pankenstein,
 
I have been a member on this board for about three weeks. I had read it many times prior to being a member and enjoyed most of the posts. I use to think some of the boys were just pickin on you, but it's obvious you have it coming. Damn boy, you need to tune in more and broadcast less. Make your rods however you want to. But for you to second guess a guy (Max) who has made more power than you could possibly conceive ( most recent - 5 consecutive time SSD NTPA champ - 426 block ) is just dumb. It is funny, you really don't know the knowledge of any posters here! OPS is one of the most knowledgeable guys on here. I'm thankful he finally joined, sharing his knowledge, not slamming everyone with arrogance.
i am more second guessing understanding what you say you saw .  you or max one is who doing someone but then again if someone doesnt know the fixture that holds the rod in place for boring they could possibly think its a press. I just dont know the knowledge of poster .but i dont see oblonging a circular hole doing much but making center harder to find.  never heard the phrase i rather be lucky than good. i guess either . It doesnt take much measuring on the bearing half either to know it oblongs the hole by design to do what i posted above . however it would require the use of machine shop measuring tools . eliminating key board pullers.
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 10:08am
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Originally posted by Ken(MI) Ken(MI) wrote:

I guess what puzzles me is the difficulty controlling distortion  through heat treating, proper heat treating practices minimize distortion, and I have all the respect in the world for Max Simpson, but I've never heard of distorting material prior to heat treating in order to control distortion, prior to steel reaching the austenizing temperature, it will relax and whatever stresses are in it are relieved and it will distort, usually in a very unpredictable manner, which is why thermal stress relief is the techinque used to remove stresses induced from forming and rough machining prior to finish machining and heat treating. The other factor is the material that the rods are made from in the beginning. I don't know about the 426 rods, but the majority of 125, 226 and 201 rods that I've seen were made at Atlas Drop Forge, and are nothing better than 1030 steel, salt brine quenched and tempered to about Rc 18-20 and not exactly what performance rods are made of, all the heat treating in the world won't improve garden variety materials to the level of 300M or 4340. Another point to consider is that regardless of being created from the same material, Billet rods, machined from bar stock will never equal forged rods. At the end of the day, the best rod available is forged from quality material, properly heat treated for maximum strength, and accurately machined.
I would guess if he squeezed the rod across the parting line of the cap, he may have been giving himself some material for resizing. If you do like MP says and just face off the part to resize, your already to size across the part. If you squeeze the part together, then cut material from the parting line, you would have a complete clean up on the ID after resizingGeek
then theres the pankey way when reducing the circle by grinding the cap half grid it on angle so when tighten it pulls the sides in to have material on the sides to remove when boring. Some rods have this occurrunce in rare instances . the 426 rod might be a rare instance just not that familiar with it. either way we explored the logic . Mashing the part line in is a permanent position where the angled part line isnt when detensioned.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 9:22am
Originally posted by Ken(MI) Ken(MI) wrote:

I guess what puzzles me is the difficulty controlling distortion  through heat treating, proper heat treating practices minimize distortion, and I have all the respect in the world for Max Simpson, but I've never heard of distorting material prior to heat treating in order to control distortion, prior to steel reaching the austenizing temperature, it will relax and whatever stresses are in it are relieved and it will distort, usually in a very unpredictable manner, which is why thermal stress relief is the techinque used to remove stresses induced from forming and rough machining prior to finish machining and heat treating. The other factor is the material that the rods are made from in the beginning. I don't know about the 426 rods, but the majority of 125, 226 and 201 rods that I've seen were made at Atlas Drop Forge, and are nothing better than 1030 steel, salt brine quenched and tempered to about Rc 18-20 and not exactly what performance rods are made of, all the heat treating in the world won't improve garden variety materials to the level of 300M or 4340. Another point to consider is that regardless of being created from the same material, Billet rods, machined from bar stock will never equal forged rods. At the end of the day, the best rod available is forged from quality material, properly heat treated for maximum strength, and accurately machined.
I would guess if he squeezed the rod across the parting line of the cap, he may have been giving himself some material for resizing. If you do like MP says and just face off the part to resize, your already to size across the part. If you squeeze the part together, then cut material from the parting line, you would have a complete clean up on the ID after resizingGeek
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 7:44am
its obvious automotive shops arent keeping tech papers on hand or having experienced builders in the shop so heres a pdf from clevite that if you want to score points with boss for a raise by making him think your furthering your knowledge that you can down load from clevite.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 7:40am
thanks ken
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rod B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 7:38am
Let's ask spankster what holds the rod bearing from spinning? He seams to think the locating tabs do that job.

Edited by Rod B - 25 Jan 2013 at 7:42am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ken(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 7:37am
I guess what puzzles me is the difficulty controlling distortion  through heat treating, proper heat treating practices minimize distortion, and I have all the respect in the world for Max Simpson, but I've never heard of distorting material prior to heat treating in order to control distortion, prior to steel reaching the austenizing temperature, it will relax and whatever stresses are in it are relieved and it will distort, usually in a very unpredictable manner, which is why thermal stress relief is the techinque used to remove stresses induced from forming and rough machining prior to finish machining and heat treating. The other factor is the material that the rods are made from in the beginning. I don't know about the 426 rods, but the majority of 125, 226 and 201 rods that I've seen were made at Atlas Drop Forge, and are nothing better than 1030 steel, salt brine quenched and tempered to about Rc 18-20 and not exactly what performance rods are made of, all the heat treating in the world won't improve garden variety materials to the level of 300M or 4340. Another point to consider is that regardless of being created from the same material, Billet rods, machined from bar stock will never equal forged rods. At the end of the day, the best rod available is forged from quality material, properly heat treated for maximum strength, and accurately machined.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 7:31am
Originally posted by O.P.S. Heads O.P.S. Heads wrote:

My first post was really for Ed. He was  talking about hardened 426 rods so I thought I would chime in.  I sure as hell don't know it all and never claimed to, but Max Simpson probably does. He explained his process to me on the phone and it has worked well for us. Looking back on it all I should have just emailed Ed directly.
 
Pankenstein,
 
I have been a member on this board for about three weeks. I had read it many times prior to being a member and enjoyed most of the posts. I use to think some of the boys were just pickin on you, but it's obvious you have it coming. Damn boy, you need to tune in more and broadcast less. Make your rods however you want to. But for you to second guess a guy (Max) who has made more power than you could possibly conceive ( most recent - 5 consecutive time SSD NTPA champ - 426 block ) is just dumb.
i am more second guessing understanding what you say you saw .  you or max one is who doing someone but then again if someone doesnt know the fixture that holds the rod in place for boring they could possibly think its a press. I just dont know the knowledge of poster .but i dont see oblonging a circular hole doing much but making center harder to find.  never heard the phrase i rather be lucky than good. i guess either . It doesnt take much measuring on the bearing half either to know it oblongs the hole by design to do what i posted above . however it would require the use of machine shop measuring tools . eliminating key board pullers.

Edited by mlpankey - 25 Jan 2013 at 7:36am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 7:24am
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

I would like to know if max is just who doing like wi and rob. looks to me like oblonging the wrist pin bore in a press would be making  possibly a place to fracture.  sometimes you wonder if its luck and luck only that gets people on podiums


I'm sure most here would agree, it would take much more than LUCK to see MP on a podium unless it was for mbuchrd's eulogyShocked

Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 25 Jan 2013 at 7:25am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unstylish_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 6:21am
See, the problem with Pank is that he cannot condone what he does not understand. Therefore, he must not condone much... I guess max Simpson is just lucky that his motors ran well without panks attention to detail. Mitch if you are such a rod expert why didn't you use a rod that wouldnt bend like a noodle in your motor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mufflerboltz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan 2013 at 6:16am
i my self have never seen an oblong bearing, I have noticed that upon removing them form a rod they stick to the side of the rod but once inserted in the rod end they are and should be a perfect circle! if they were not a person would eventually end up with on h@ll of a rod Knock! 
 Im not saying i know everything about building motors, but i can dang well say i self taught myself and know how to read a mic to make sure i don't have weird clearances like that! I have probably built ( cant really remember exact number) 20-25 engines, all the way from single cylinders, car/truck, and diesel engines and NEVER had one blow/seize up!
 If we are going to oblong rod holes and such likes also egg shape the crank, should run like one huge vibrator until she blows!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EricSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 10:04pm
I'm just learning a lot of this stuff but if nothing else I do get a lot of laughs from these arguments. We have a guy at work who will give you a answer one day and the next say he never said that does it remind you of anyone. Lol
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Gee O.P.S.  You obviously didn't read his post last month about being the smartest person on these forums!
Pay proper respect!Angry 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 9:04pm
Over 50 pounds of boost and you're asking for trouble most of the time. They will bend/crush the beam from too much pressure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote O.P.S. Heads Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 9:01pm
My first post was really for Ed. He was  talking about hardened 426 rods so I thought I would chime in.  I sure as hell don't know it all and never claimed to, but Max Simpson probably does. He explained his process to me on the phone and it has worked well for us. Looking back on it all I should have just emailed Ed directly.
 
Pankenstein,
 
I have been a member on this board for about three weeks. I had read it many times prior to being a member and enjoyed most of the posts. I use to think some of the boys were just pickin on you, but it's obvious you have it coming. Damn boy, you need to tune in more and broadcast less. Make your rods however you want to. But for you to second guess a guy (Max) who has made more power than you could possibly conceive ( most recent - 5 consecutive time SSD NTPA champ - 426 block ) is just dumb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ALLISMAN32 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 8:50pm
So on a 426 at what power level does one need to consider having the rods hardened, or is it more dependent on engine speed that could cause a failure?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 8:42pm
Flame hardening the rod should make the circle smaller so you can bore it back to standard without oblonging it in a press that could possibly cause a unseen stres crack.inmho
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote O.P.S. Heads Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 8:21pm
OK I'm going to go through this again: The rods are squashed (slightly) prior to the heat treat process. The heat treat process happens and brings the oval hole close to being back to round. Then both ends of the rod are machined to a perfect circle - just like factory.
The idea for the pre - distortion of the rod is so it ends up closer to a round hole after the heat treatment process so less machine work is done to get it to a perfect circle. Max understands it completely. We have had a few sets of 301 rods done by him and two set of 426 rods done with zero issues.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 7:59pm
So in knowing the bearings are oblong by design why would you oblong the circular big end of a rod. In my opinion thats a who do job
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 12:40pm
hmm the big end i gues i didnt read well  . Most rods bearings come with the clearance tighter at top and bottom 12 and 6 oclok  than they are at the split . The bearing halves at the split usually are a half to a thousandths more clearance than the top and bottom to keep rod from getting tight on the sides when going through stretch and compression of running. In other words the bearing are oblong by design for a reason.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Larry W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 9:33am
Wow, now max is only lucky? Just when I thought I have read the most ridiculous statements ever, a new one flys in from the south!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butch(OH) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 9:28am
Originally posted by O.P.S. Heads O.P.S. Heads wrote:

Not the wrist pin bore. I said the big end of the rod which to most folks is the end that hooks to the crankshaft. .

LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Glockhead SWMI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 9:03am
Max Simpson was one of the reasons I bought an Allis.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote O.P.S. Heads Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 8:43am
Not the wrist pin bore. I said the big end of the rod which to most folks is the end that hooks to the crankshaft. Max has been doing things like this and much more for years and years and is a smart, smart guy. He makes good stuff. Far be it for me to question anything he does.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jan 2013 at 8:28am
I would like to know if max is just who doing like wi and rob. looks to me like oblonging the wrist pin bore in a press would be making  possibly a place to fracture.  sometimes you wonder if its luck and luck only that gets people on podiums
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