HD-3 running now but no reverse?

i have had the same trouble i found that shuttle clutch contol had the ridge worn off common on this model part number 1003771-1 if you remove the side oil cooling plate to the shuttle clutch you will see that the fork is not pulling the clutch into reverse but will push into forward.If you search the part you will see how it has worn.sad news if it is this you have to split the tractor in half cheers duncan

Just wondering how you made out with this. Some mechanics that I know have changed out that clutch sleeve without spliting the case (on D 15 shuttle clutch tractors) and your inspection cover is similar, so I'm guessing it's possible to do (with some newly invented words). Just curious if you wound up splitting it?

Usually it takes a good wrench or pipe wrench, a long cheater bar and heat (lots of it) and some patients. I am almost finished restoring an HD-3 using 2 to make 1. I should have the parts you need. I would say when this tractor was built they started with the clutch pack and built the tractor around it!!!

The brass collar has a groove cut into it that rides the hub that engages the clutch pack. If you look at the picture, you can just make out that the brass sleeve is in fact 2 half sections bolted together. If you take your time with the help of the manual you may be able to remove the brass collar and see the total damage. If it's just the collar you may be able to replace this without splitting the tractor. You may have to remove the cross shaft that holds the fork in place. This can be done on the tractor, but I'm not sureit can be done on a crawler with the track frame out board of the transmision. Others may chime in if I'm incorrect. All this is much easier to see on the ag tractors.

I suspect that the brass collar is whats wrong and can see but some but fairly limited. I can see the shaft the the brass collar rides on and it looks pretty rough. When i push the stick forward the fork moves the brass collar forward and seems to engage the clutch as it should. When i pull the stick to the reverse position the fork moves the brass collar rearward to where it seems to almost come of the back of the shaft but when. Also when i move the stick to reverse the brass collar slides back on the shaft but it does not pull the clutch pack with it of effect it in any way. Travis does this go along with what you were saying? I have not had time to really start splitting it yet but i have it on blocks so i can start splitting the tracks when i get the time. 

Okay guys, I couldn't figure out how to get the HD-3 into the shop so i bought a portable 10'x20' shelter and moved it over the dozer. Yesterday i took the shuttle case inspection cover off and i have figured out what the problem is (kinda) The clutch pack is fine but where the "shift fork" slides the pack back and forth is the problem. It will go forward and perform like it should but when you pull the shuttle lever back to the reverse position the part that the shift fork moves just slides back off of the shaft it rides on. Either that or it's not a shaft meaning that the part is broken completely in two. my repiar manual should be here today they said and the mail should be coming any minute so i will be able to better tell what has gone wrong one i look at that. Does this sound familiar to anyone? 

Hilltop, I've got about five original manuals for the H-3 and HD-3, I still need them, but I could possibly make some copies and send them to you if you still need them. There are parts manuals, repair manuals, and a general service manual.

I went through something very similar on my HD3 only it wouldn't move forward. When I split the dozer in half, I found the large C-clip had come off and was laying in the bottom of the case all mangled up. When you pull that side cover off, leave the 2 hydraulic lines connected because it's easier. Remove all the bolts and the cover will pull outward and you will be able to see the clutch pack. My thought is that if all the shims are in the original location (3 in the middle section and 5 in each forward and reverse section) and you have no reverse than it is something other than worn discs. Mine was the broken C-clip but yours may be something to do with the levers inside the case. Here's some photos of the clutch pack for your viewing pleasure. The second photo show the mangled C-clip and the last photo is what it looks like installed. If you do end up splitting the machine in half, use 2 lengths of 1/2" all thread rod like as shown in the bottom photo. It'll keep the rear section from wanting to rotate upside down and will make your life easier.
Don in WA

The clutch pack is one section. In this section you have 2 sections full of drive discs and driven discs seperated by the tension mechanism. the tension control is moved by a fork on the inside of the shaft as you move the lever control. The thing is that this clutch pack is the same as a D-15 tractor's high/low clutch pack. This is refered top as a Power Director clutch. Any D-15 manual will give you details of how this setup works. High section is forward and low section is reverse on the industrial and tracked versions. The reverse is controlled by an extra counter shaft forward of the PD clutch inside the torque housing. Sounds complicated but it's very simple and works very well. You may have problems in the counter shafts but since you don't feel the normal resistance in the lever when you pull backwards then you likely have a problem in the linkage for the clutch pack  or in the clutch pack itself. When you pull the cover off it may be difficult to see all the details but you should be able to feel as much as you see. Provided you understand what your feeling and understand how it all works. I hope this information has helped with the later.lol

The shift fork uses two woodruff keys to connect it to the shuttle shaft. As I said earlier you will be able to feel the lever and determine if the shuttle is working. My clutch packs came from Kevin @ Ilinni. About $350.00 for the new discs.

One more thing regarding the procedure. You have to move shims in the shuttle to obtain .040 gap in the clutch pack in order for the clutch to release properly. Do not discard any shims. The Maintenance manual dedicates about 3 pages to the procedure. You cannot do it without following the written procedure. When you split the tractor make sure you mark the shift fork / shaft. It you turn it 180 degrees the lever will be indexed below the operators platform.

Thanks i'll put a call into Minpar Monday morning unless someone comes up with an online edition. I've also got an AC500 forklift that i need to see about getting the pump rebuilt or getting a kit if theres no special tools required so maybe they will have everything i need there.

 Thanks for the help guys! I think i will have time to run out to the property and fool with it some tomorrow afternoon so i'll check back in then with details.

Dave is telling you correct what to check. Let us know what you find. Tracy Martin

Tracey,