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littlemarv 
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
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 Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 10:54pm |
Tried my hand at safety wiring, looks O.K. I guess, without having a pair of twisting pliers.  Brought home my good gauges, so I can measure things properly. Crank end play came out at 0.004", so good to go there.  Flipped the block upright, plunked the liners in with no O-rings. I'm getting 0.005" or 0.006" protrusion. Hmmmmmm. After a conference call with Don(MO), I scraped the counter bores with a razor blade, actually got a little crud out of there.... Much better.  Put Vaseline on the lower lead in chamfers, put canola oil on the O-rings. Should be a slippery enough combination.  Put the liners in, give them a spin at the end to ease the O-rings down into place. Hopefully these liners have found their new home for the next 50 years or so....  Thanks for looking!
Edited by littlemarv - 23 Aug 2017 at 3:39pm
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 1:13pm |
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Yes, checking it with the dial indicator isn't the most accurate. I'm going to flip the block upright when I actually install them.
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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SteveM C/IL
Orange Level Access
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8002
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 1:06pm |
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It probably don't matter on this engine but those liners should be clamped down to measure projection.
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Hubnut
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Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Points: 1812
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 11:22am |
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Thank you--makes sense.
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 8:19am |
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No, they definitely do not slide in by hand! Just a figure of speech that I guess maybe I should not have used. With anything press fit, throwing the inner part in the freezer makes things go a little easier. I think if a cam bearing ever went in by hand, it would spin pretty quick once the motor was run.
Edited by littlemarv - 21 Feb 2016 at 8:34am
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Hubnut
Orange Level
Joined: 30 Jul 2014
Location: Gainesville, FL
Points: 1812
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 8:11am |
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Nice pictures. I learned a few things here. If you use the freezer technique for the cam bearings, do they slide right in by hand, or do you still need the installer to drive them in properly? Just curious because those tools are rather expensive and I've always had the machine shop do the cam bearings.
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1940 B "Lucy"
1941 B w/ Woods L59 "Flavia"
1942 B w/ finish mower "Dick"
1941 C w/ 3-point "Maggie"
1947 C SFW w/ L306 "Trixie"
1972 314H
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mjbower
Silver Level
Joined: 04 Oct 2009
Location: Michigan
Points: 255
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 8:11am |
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Love the attention to details there. And getting the youth involved.thanks for the pictures
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ac45dave
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Joined: 23 May 2015
Location: SE(IN)
Points: 1321
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 8:01am |
lookin good bud. keep the updates coming. 
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54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
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AaronSEIA
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mt Pleasant, IA
Points: 2533
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 6:33am |
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Nice work. Good job getting the kids involved.
AaronSEIA
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littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
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Posted: 21 Feb 2016 at 1:06am |
The nice thing about the parts manual is it gives you exact sizes of all the bolts. Got three new bolts and lockwashers, torqued the cam gear on. Alright sonny boy, lets get a little grease on your hands.   Watched Dons video on the rear main seal again to brush up on it. Before he made that video, he actually talked me through the process over the phone a couple years ago. Set this on the rear main seal for an hour, just for everyones benefit, it does not work. You have to compress them in a vise to really get them thin.  Cleaned and trued up the upper rear main carrier. You can see when I started sanding the only contact was around the bolt holes.  Got it cleaned up nice.  So, bolted that on, glue the upper half in, lubed the seal with oil and the bearings with Lubriplate, and set the crank home.   The manual says anything under 0.011" end play is acceptable. I've got about 0.003" on the crank. Laid the engine over on its side for cylinder kit installation.  Got these Tisco kits with the tractor.  Slid one in without the O-rings to check liner protrusion. Don't have my good gauge here, so I checked it with my dial calipers. Manual says 0.002" to 0.004" is O.K., I come up with 0.003". Sweet.  Oh yeah, pulled the oil wick out of the crank and plugged both ends with a cork, since I will be using a sealed pilot bearing.   I really thought about taking down my "tractor table" and putting an engine stand down here, but this table is too darn handy. I originally built it to work on a garden tractor during the winter. Since then, I have restored one garden tractor on it, fixed about 20 other garden tractor parts, rebuilt one two cylinder Kohler, built a doll house, painted a bunch of parts, and done umpteen other projects on it. What you don't see in these engine build pictures, is the fact that I had to shove my stuff into a pile so SOMEONE could work on a wooden model....  What can I say. Thanks for looking!
Edited by littlemarv - 23 Aug 2017 at 3:33pm
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Don(MO)
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bates City MO.
Points: 6862
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 9:07am |
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Looks like you are going at it right, keep up the good work and post more on your engine rebuild.
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Allis dave
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Joined: 10 May 2012
Location: Northern IN
Points: 2855
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Posted: 03 Feb 2016 at 7:29am |
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Thanks Marv, looks like a good start. Wish I could set and work on mine next to the stove.
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littlemarv
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Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
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Posted: 02 Feb 2016 at 10:23pm |
Thought I would start a new topic just for the engine portion of my WC resurrection. Start with a nice clean line bored block, sitting on my tractor table downstairs behind the furnace, where I can work day or night in a climate controlled environment.  How am I going to get a complete engine out of my basement, you ask? Don't worry, we'll cross that bridge (or, climb those stairs, when we get to it). Lets start with the cam bearings. Got a set of 0.002" undersize cam bearings from Norm Meinert.  I've been told when installing cam bearings, as long as you have half the hole lined up you should be fine. As OCD as I am, that will never happen. (By the way, it should be called CDO, that way the letters are in the correct order). So, what I do, is to take a square and draw a line through the holes in the block and the holes in the bearing. That way, you just align the lines and drive them home, so the holes line up no matter what kind of goofy angle you are driving them from.     O.K., all set. Pop them babies in the freezer for a half an hour, and they will slide right home. Per the manual, the middle bearing gets centered in the web of the block. I drew that one in with the puller. Oil hole location came out good.  The front one should be flush with the front of the block. This one came out good too.  The rear one should be flush with the expansion plug bore. Oil hole looks good.  Picked up a 2 1/2" welch plug. Use a Q tip to put a little anaerobic sealer on the plug and the bore, being careful to keep it away from the drain hole. If you inadvertently plug that drain hole, I'd imagine the oil pressure would hydraulically pop that plug right out.  Tap the plug into the bore, then give it one good whack to distort it a little, should be good.  I couldn't get a picture while I was doing it, but I looked in from the front of the motor and stuck this wire back there to make sure the hole is clear- O.K.  Couldn't find a spec for lifter or bore diameter, so in they go. I have been told that Lubriplate will clog an oil filter, but I have no idea how long this engine is going to sit before it runs, so I will use it sparingly. Probably going to run the engine up to temp to set the valves and will change oil then anyways.   So there. Enough for now, I set the block on corrosion resistant paper, throw a layer on top, and cover it with plastic when I'm not working on it. That damn OCD, I mean CDO.  Thanks for looking!
Edited by littlemarv - 22 Aug 2017 at 10:06pm
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The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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