govenor help

  These is bound to be  some linkage out of adjustment, is it pulling the arm out of the gov. housing all the way back? I am pretty sure Dr Allis has a post on here how to "correctly" set the linkage.

with the engine off pull the throttle wide open you may need vice grips to ensure lever stays  all the way down .  Go to the crab side and ensure carb is all the way open . I usuualy remove the rod and open carb up then make the rod about halve the hole to long so i have to push back on the cross arm just a little giving some preload .  yes the cross shaft could be turning . a little spot weld will rid that 

Edited by mlpankey - 30 Jun 2013 at 12:11pm

Maybe the spring is weak it was a used one.I did the throttle wide. Open and made sure the carb was wide open with engine off. Started the tractor and whent to wide open and the carb only opens about half I can manualy push the vertical arm twords the carb to increase the engine speed

when the engine is running how does it sound? When i first got involved in pulling years ago and started trying to up the rpms . I had a engine that didn't respond to spring changes raising the rpms as it should. I would try and a pop in the exhaust would get louder and louder . Long story condensed on fix the valve springs were shot valves would start floating at 1500 rpms . Went to the comp 920 and 944 springs never had that problem again. May not be your problem but they can be other issues not letting rpms raise from gov.mods as it should is my point.  pulling carb wide open bypassing gov will let you know if its something other than a improper adjusted gov.

Edited by mlpankey - 01 Jul 2013 at 8:01pm

Guess I should also mention tha my tractor has factory power steering so the throttle linkage is a little different

Dr allis I am going to try that and may take the govener assembly out and make sure the spinle that the thrust bearing rides on is not bured up or have a grove in it that when its spinning its keeping it from moving outward.I also just ordered a new 175 spring

I gave you the p/n to a new D17 spring (70229519) and now you spend money on a new 175 spring? ..That will get you 1800 RPM and the D17 spring will get you 2,000 RPM if everything is adjusted/assembled correctly.

Put the stock wd45 spring back in and only can get 730 rpms at full throttle its like the weights are realy pushing the fork back to idle. Has anyone lightened up a set of weights if so how much?

If u got an e combine carb iv seen the arm slip on the butterfly shaft too.

I want to see pictures of the carb side of the engine, with the hand throttle wide open. One pic of the governor arm behind the generator and another of the carb linkage up against the engine blcok. I see nothing wrong with any of these pics......nothing.

the last pic is at idle just wanted to show how the linkage was

Then what's the point in you saying anything? Just more jibber jabber. Dont clutter this post with bs please.

do u have a adjustment bolt on top of the aluminum cover for the governor? If u do remove it and jb weld the hole shut that is for a combine governor only and wont let u put enuf tension on the spring to get the rpms u want.

The first thing you need to do is cut off or severely bend the cotter pin legs on the link rod at the carb throttle shaft. That cotter pin cannot in any way interfere with the operation of the linkage. Cut off the cotter pin legs short and spread them opposite each other or bend them around the rod end so they cannot touch anything !!!!! The link rod cannot be rubbing against the engine block either. With the engine off and hand throttle wide open, disconnect the link rod from the vertical governor arm behind the generator. Now, force that link rod rearwards as far as it will go. At this point the carb is wide-open and the throttle shaft is up aginst the lever stop. While still holding the rod rearwards against the carb stop, try and connect it to the vertical governor arm WITHOUT MOVING IT FORWARD. The link rod should just slide into the arm hole without moving the arm OR the link rod forward. Bending the vertical arm might be needed to "synch" this linkage. It shouldn't be that far off, but whatever it is, it is.  I'm also questioning your tachometer as to it's accuracy. You certainly should have checked you eng max RPM's before you started changing things.

WAITING FOR A REPORT BACK.