govenor help
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Category: Other Topics
Forum Name: Pulling Forum
Forum Description: Forum dedicated to Tractor and Garden Pulling
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=72642
Printed Date: 23 Nov 2024 at 7:39pm
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Topic: govenor help
Posted By: firephight
Subject: govenor help
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 10:23am
| I put the d17 spring and plunger in my wd45 and have the stop screw all the way out but can't get over 1150 rpm I did bend the arm on the carb side a little and it increased some is there a easier way that I am just over looking? |
Replies:
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 10:27am
|
These is bound to be some linkage out of adjustment, is it pulling the arm out of the gov. housing all the way back? I am pretty sure Dr Allis has a post on here how to "correctly" set the linkage. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 11:28am
| I have read that post could the pin that holds the fork to the cross shaft have broken and maybe its spun a little? |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 12:10pm
|
with the engine off pull the throttle wide open you may need vice grips to ensure lever stays all the way down . Go to the crab side and ensure carb is all the way open . I usuualy remove the rod and open carb up then make the rod about halve the hole to long so i have to push back on the cross arm just a little giving some preload . yes the cross shaft could be turning . a little spot weld will rid that ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 30 Jun 2013 at 7:29pm
| I can't imagine what is wrong here. All you had to do is remove the governor front cover and replace the spring/plunger. There was no need to change anything on the carb side of the engine unless you took the governor apart. Where did you get your new spring?? and what was the P/N?...should be 70229519 from AGCO.......this should have been as easy as changing out 4 spark plugs. If the engine ran 1700 rpm before, it should run 2,000 rpm now. |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 4:50pm
| Maybe the spring is weak it was a used one.I did the throttle wide. Open and made sure the carb was wide open with engine off. Started the tractor and whent to wide open and the carb only opens about half I can manualy push the vertical arm twords the carb to increase the engine speed |
Posted By: Kip-Utah
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 6:24pm
|
I don't think that you have a D17 spring...but even a WC spring should give you 1300-1400 rpm?? ------------- HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 7:37pm
|
when the engine is running how does it sound? When i first got involved in pulling years ago and started trying to up the rpms . I had a engine that didn't respond to spring changes raising the rpms as it should. I would try and a pop in the exhaust would get louder and louder . Long story condensed on fix the valve springs were shot valves would start floating at 1500 rpms . Went to the comp 920 and 944 springs never had that problem again. May not be your problem but they can be other issues not letting rpms raise from gov.mods as it should is my point. pulling carb wide open bypassing gov will let you know if its something other than a improper adjusted gov. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 9:08pm
| Kip its a d17 spring saw the tractor myself |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 9:38pm
| Guess I should also mention tha my tractor has factory power steering so the throttle linkage is a little different |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 01 Jul 2013 at 9:40pm
| Put your old spring back in and see if you can get the RPM back that you had before things went south. |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 9:22am
| Dr allis I am going to try that and may take the govener assembly out and make sure the spinle that the thrust bearing rides on is not bured up or have a grove in it that when its spinning its keeping it from moving outward.I also just ordered a new 175 spring |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 9:23am
| Part #70226785 |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 12:17pm
|
I gave you the p/n to a new D17 spring (70229519) and now you spend money on a new 175 spring? ..That will get you 1800 RPM and the D17 spring will get you 2,000 RPM if everything is adjusted/assembled correctly. |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 02 Jul 2013 at 3:49pm
| How is that if the 175 spring is aready rated at 2, 000 rpm? Factory specs. Next question does the 45, d17,&175 have diffrent weight govenor weights? |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 8:34am
| Put the stock wd45 spring back in and only can get 730 rpms at full throttle its like the weights are realy pushing the fork back to idle. Has anyone lightened up a set of weights if so how much? |
Posted By: mattb
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 8:36am
| make sure the bearing is not froze up on the shaft in gov. |
Posted By: mattb
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 8:38am
| If u got an e combine carb iv seen the arm slip on the butterfly shaft too. |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 03 Jul 2013 at 10:58pm
    some pics so some could help me out
|
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 6:23am
| I want to see pictures of the carb side of the engine, with the hand throttle wide open. One pic of the governor arm behind the generator and another of the carb linkage up against the engine blcok. I see nothing wrong with any of these pics......nothing. |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 11:29am
    the carb side is with the throttle wide open
|
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 11:34am
| the last pic is at idle just wanted to show how the linkage was |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 11:38am
|
if you pull the pins and remove the weights in you picture . get a piece of aluminum to slide on shaft to hold rocker arm spring up off shaft . cut spring to length and put pilot bearing back on shaft to work fork you will never break weights again but at the rpms your running that will never be a issue ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: wrightk20
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2013 at 6:44pm
| Then what's the point in you saying anything? Just more jibber jabber. Dont clutter this post with bs please. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2013 at 9:36am
| Set hand throttle to wide open. Disconnect the carb link rod behind the generator. Grab the vertical governor arm and move the top of it towards the radiator. It should only move until the arm is probably straight up/down and the fork on the other side of the engine is bottomed out against the timing cover. Now, let go of the governor arm and it should spring backwards towards the carburator, and stop at some point. The governor arm is "pinned" to the fork on the other side of the engine. Whenever the arm is moved the fork should move. THERE CANNOT BE ANY LOOSENESS in this pin area and it is rare to have a problem like that. If you can move the gov arm at all easily without stretching the gov spring, the tapered pin may be loose. Also the link rod to the carb should move back and forth very easily with no binding whatsoever when disconnected from the gov arm. I can visually see nothing wrong here. Do you have the gov arm synched to the link rod correctly?? It really shouldn't be a problem as things were just fine until you changed springs. I could fix it in five minutes if I was there. |
Posted By: mattb
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2013 at 2:37pm
| do u have a adjustment bolt on top of the aluminum cover for the governor? If u do remove it and jb weld the hole shut that is for a combine governor only and wont let u put enuf tension on the spring to get the rpms u want. |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2013 at 8:14pm
| Dr.allis do you think I need to bend my cross shaft I bought this tractir and never checked the rpm before so I don't know what the stock setting was |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2013 at 8:50am
| The first thing you need to do is cut off or severely bend the cotter pin legs on the link rod at the carb throttle shaft. That cotter pin cannot in any way interfere with the operation of the linkage. Cut off the cotter pin legs short and spread them opposite each other or bend them around the rod end so they cannot touch anything !!!!! The link rod cannot be rubbing against the engine block either. With the engine off and hand throttle wide open, disconnect the link rod from the vertical governor arm behind the generator. Now, force that link rod rearwards as far as it will go. At this point the carb is wide-open and the throttle shaft is up aginst the lever stop. While still holding the rod rearwards against the carb stop, try and connect it to the vertical governor arm WITHOUT MOVING IT FORWARD. The link rod should just slide into the arm hole without moving the arm OR the link rod forward. Bending the vertical arm might be needed to "synch" this linkage. It shouldn't be that far off, but whatever it is, it is. I'm also questioning your tachometer as to it's accuracy. You certainly should have checked you eng max RPM's before you started changing things. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2013 at 10:00am
| If the governor vertical arm needs to be bent (one way or the other) to make the hole line up with the link rod, you bend the vertical arm, NOT TWIST THE SHAFT. A-C made a tool for doing this adjustment. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 12 Jul 2013 at 10:47pm
|
WAITING FOR A REPORT BACK. |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2013 at 10:09am
| Waiting on the spring I ordered. Also found a dwell/tach meter so gona check my dwell and then timming then adjust cross shaft if needed and move my tinytach pickup wire to the coil wire.also might look into HEI for hotter spark i have already converted to 12. I would just think my tractor should spin out in the #3750-4500 but it just runs out of power |
Posted By: CAL(KS)
Date Posted: 13 Jul 2013 at 10:48am
|
moving tach wire to coil will give you 4X rpm cause it will read spark for every plug instead of 1 cylinder ------------- Me -C,U,UC,WC,WD45,190XT,TL-12,145T,HD6G,HD16,HD20 Dad- WD, D17D, D19D, RT100A, 7020, 7080,7580, 2-8550's, 2-S77, HD15 |
Posted By: firephight
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2013 at 5:06pm
| Ok got my 175 blue strip spring installed compared to the d17 spring I have its a lot more stiff tiny tach is at about 1090 now guessing the tach is not picking up the #1 wire correct. Now next quesr ion if I advance (turn the dist) till the engine starts to run rough then back it off till it smooth es out will this help when the tractor gets under a load? |
Posted By: Charlie175
Date Posted: 21 Jul 2013 at 8:37pm
|
My D17 performs better with the 175 spring ------------- Charlie '48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD |