Panks broadening horizons

spam......reported.

Will you be selling rods and parts made on this machine?

Edited by wi50 - 30 Sep 2014 at 6:30pm

wi50 wrote: Will you be selling rods and parts made on this machine?

Mitch says parts will come free with purchase of complete engine build from him

Gary in da UP wrote: IF mitch had the resources of NASA in his "shop" he still couldn't build a winning engine/tractor. So this topic is still spam.

lol he has some winning in classes above div 2

With those machines you don't have to be a machinist just a programmer . Marty you should appreciate that being a internet builder and all

I don't think Mitch is crying for work . I think he is just going to let Ashbury and ray supply parts to engine assemblers that can not machine custom parts for any reason they may have

wi50 wrote: [QUOTE=mgburchard] [QUOTE=wi50]  So there's no difference in price if a customer supplies their own parts or if they get custom made parts......you say they are free with purchase of a build. Sounds like a desperate cry for work. Myself, I'm pretty backed up and don't cut deals, I don't have to.

I don't think twin wire welding has dried up I think Mitch just advanced it being able to utilize another machine to make rods capable of using a readily available narrow automotive h series rod bearing instead of antique pricey over a inch wide tractor rod bearings

wi50 wrote: All my machines are CnC, also known as crank'n-crank. Butch, don't you rember pank telling us billet rods were no good, now he wants to pretend to make them. Picture of your Gleason please.........

Hey Butch, you rember me explaining to pank how a narrow crankpin would be stronger than a wide one, to throw those tractor rods away and use a nice narrow billet on max effort engines,,......he did listen after all. That is why I set my billet rods up with an H-series bearing.....but look out pank, the locating tabs are in different locations on the top and bottom bearing shells on the 2" SBC bearings.

I'm not sure why but Murphy's rods use a different bearing insert, Buick I think, maybe the locating tabs are symmetrical on those.

mgburchard wrote: Butch(OH) wrote: [QUOTE=mgburchard) You are even more  clueless than I ever even thought you were Pank naw showing yours see to use the rod the crank will have to be welded to use .942 wide rod making crank welder even more work to.

You're dead wrong, the welder has the same or less work to do....you weld the whole journal and grind into it. Weather you grind a .960" wide crankpin or a 1.5" wide crankpin the welding is the same, not more. The narrow crankpin is also easier to grind, less material to remove than a wide pin.

The welding work could in a sense be less for the narrow crankpin, as the area built up can be tapered down to a lesser width. Thus giving less mass to the outermost part of the crank and in theory strengths it. Added strength from added material under the crankpin allowing it to be blended into the throw.

Any crank grinder knows this, though the imaginary crank experts on the internet like you lank are, well,......clueless.

mgburchard wrote: wi50 wrote: Hey Butch, you rember me explaining to pank how a narrow crankpin would be stronger than a wide one, to throw those tractor rods away and use a nice narrow billet on max effort engines,,......he did listen after all. That is why I set my billet rods up with an H-series bearing.....but look out pank, the locating tabs are in different locations on the top and bottom bearing shells on the 2" SBC bearings. I'm not sure why but Murphy's rods use a different bearing insert, Buick I think, maybe the locating tabs are symmetrical on those. remember Pankey showing the natpa points winning tarbill crank back around 2000 or so . so no matter how much you twist it you just can't get ahead of him .

No I don't rember, but I do rember pankey buying the engine and then whining that it was junk and selling the parts. It did have wide rods though.

herespicture of crank heres picture of natpa points winning tractor it came from

You got to narrow journal up if you use a narrower rod if you plan on having any oil pressure . Pankey went over this when your pal Andy was recommending just turning allis crank down to farmal h rod diameter but the h rod is narrower. Butch sometimes Pankey says going forward is backing up tarbills motor did teach him a thing or three . one thing it had a large duration relative small lift cam from comp cams . didn't lug well at end of pu all but ran strong enough in the middle to get past everyone to be a points champ . so Pankey goes with more duration now and even though Marty says its all wrong well it got past two of his this year

That's a pretty fugly crank in the picture there. There could be strength added by grinding a large diameter grind, wider at a different stroke, thus grinding a large radius to blend the crankpin to the throw.

Think of it like this, grind a 2" crankpin on a 6" stroke that's .960"/wide. Now grind a 3" diameter, or close to it depending on the material, with a huge radius on a 4.5" stroke or so and grind a little wider than the .960" crankpin journal. The grinding wheel won't hit the crankpin but will clean up the under side of the crankpin blending into the throw.

I see work like in the picture from shops that cut corners. Sure its one more setup on the grinder to do the second grind, but its a way to add strength. When I end up with a crank like the one in the pictures, I tig weld up the "cheeks" under the journal and then have a friend re-grind it like I explained above.

If I've got time tomorrow, I have a crank in the shop that I need to do this to, I'll take a picture and post, and I have one that's done right to compare that I can show.