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need help with brakes |
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Byron WC in SW Wi
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1635 |
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Posted: 17 Mar 2010 at 2:18pm |
on my F2. I had the master rebuilt. I put the brake fluid in it and cracked the line where it goes into the brake tower. I got fluid going there every stroke so I sealed that up. Then I see that the rubber thing on top of the tower goes up and down with each stroke. I did that several times, before my boy had to go in for a nap, but still no brakes on that side. If that rubber thing is going up and down does that mean all is well with master/slave but something else is wrong or do I need to keep pumping it for a long time to fill up the slave? This is my first "brake job."
Thanks for the help. Byron |
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Gordon Chance
Bronze Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Maryland Points: 5 |
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If your brake piston is going up and down, it means that the master cylinder is pumping ahd the brake cylinder is working. The master cylinder will only pump a certain amount of fluid. The adjusting nut on the brake rod needs to be adjusted to get your braking action. Adjust the nut down until the brake starts to feel hard and the pedal is down about 1/2 in its travel. Good luck.
Gordon
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Byron WC in SW Wi
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1635 |
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Thanks for the help Gordon. I'll give it a shot.
Byron |
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Byron WC in SW Wi
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1635 |
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Ok. I went out and tightened down both sides as they both needed adjusting. I pumped the bad side and nothing. Checked the fluid and it was gone. Put more in and pumped and fluid is coming out the drain hole in the bottom. So how do I get the slave out of there. I started loosening the top nut but thought I better ask first.
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Byron WC in SW Wi
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1635 |
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Might try and combine tomorrow without that brake. I've got 19 acres of corn from last year yet.
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7060
Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Missouri Points: 1148 |
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I dont know anything about a gleaner combine, but if you let the reservoir run out you will get air in the lines and have to bleed the lines out.
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Gordon Chance
Bronze Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Maryland Points: 5 |
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Remove the adjusting nut from the rod, remove the brake line from the brake cylinder, remove the four bolts attaching the brake cylinder to the brake assembly and remove the cylinder. The brake piston will push out of the top. Good luck.
Gordon
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Byron WC in SW Wi
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1635 |
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Thanks Gordon. I was afraid if I took that adjusting nut off it'd fall down in or something.
Byron |
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Byron WC in SW Wi
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1635 |
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So I took the adjusting nut off and the the four nuts off got that thing off. Now how do you get it apart? You say the brake piston pushes out the top. How would one do that? It seems it's solid on the bottom side and there's what appears to be a cap on top but no apparent way to get a hold of it.
Thank you for the help. Byron |
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Byron WC in SW Wi
Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin Points: 1635 |
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Ok, I got it out. Looks like the lower O-ring is bad. Thanks a ton for the help.
Byron |
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Russ-neia
Silver Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NE Iowa Points: 489 |
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If the F2 brake is like the FKS we had, it is a Bendix (combination disc brake/contracting shoe with balls and ramps) like a Series III/IV D-17. I think you need to take the one side cover off to make sure the slave piston is actually pinned to the contracting shoes and that the shoes still have some lining left. If your piston is traveling very far but not coming under load, I would bet a pin has come out.
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