need help with brakes
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Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9636
Printed Date: 21 Jan 2025 at 2:32am
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Topic: need help with brakes
Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Subject: need help with brakes
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2010 at 2:18pm
on my F2. I had the master rebuilt. I put the brake fluid in it and cracked the line where it goes into the brake tower. I got fluid going there every stroke so I sealed that up. Then I see that the rubber thing on top of the tower goes up and down with each stroke. I did that several times, before my boy had to go in for a nap, but still no brakes on that side. If that rubber thing is going up and down does that mean all is well with master/slave but something else is wrong or do I need to keep pumping it for a long time to fill up the slave? This is my first "brake job."
Thanks for the help.
Byron
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Replies:
Posted By: Gordon Chance
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2010 at 4:20pm
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If your brake piston is going up and down, it means that the master cylinder is pumping ahd the brake cylinder is working. The master cylinder will only pump a certain amount of fluid. The adjusting nut on the brake rod needs to be adjusted to get your braking action. Adjust the nut down until the brake starts to feel hard and the pedal is down about 1/2 in its travel. Good luck.
Gordon
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2010 at 4:28pm
Thanks for the help Gordon. I'll give it a shot.
Byron
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2010 at 4:44pm
Ok. I went out and tightened down both sides as they both needed adjusting. I pumped the bad side and nothing. Checked the fluid and it was gone. Put more in and pumped and fluid is coming out the drain hole in the bottom. So how do I get the slave out of there. I started loosening the top nut but thought I better ask first.
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2010 at 11:19pm
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Might try and combine tomorrow without that brake. I've got 19 acres of corn from last year yet.
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Posted By: 7060
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2010 at 11:39pm
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I dont know anything about a gleaner combine, but if you let the reservoir run out you will get air in the lines and have to bleed the lines out.
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Posted By: Gordon Chance
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2010 at 7:44am
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Remove the adjusting nut from the rod, remove the brake line from the brake cylinder, remove the four bolts attaching the brake cylinder to the brake assembly and remove the cylinder. The brake piston will push out of the top. Good luck.
Gordon
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2010 at 10:34am
Thanks Gordon. I was afraid if I took that adjusting nut off it'd fall down in or something.
Byron
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2010 at 2:42pm
So I took the adjusting nut off and the the four nuts off got that thing off. Now how do you get it apart? You say the brake piston pushes out the top. How would one do that? It seems it's solid on the bottom side and there's what appears to be a cap on top but no apparent way to get a hold of it.
Thank you for the help.
Byron
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Posted By: Byron WC in SW Wi
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2010 at 3:02pm
Ok, I got it out. Looks like the lower O-ring is bad. Thanks a ton for the help.
Byron
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Posted By: Russ-neia
Date Posted: 18 Mar 2010 at 3:04pm
If the F2 brake is like the FKS we had, it is a Bendix (combination disc brake/contracting shoe with balls and ramps) like a Series III/IV D-17. I think you need to take the one side cover off to make sure the slave piston is actually pinned to the contracting shoes and that the shoes still have some lining left. If your piston is traveling very far but not coming under load, I would bet a pin has come out.
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