camshaft

 This topic has been covered many times before, past posts are a good place to start. Skip over the drama and read for the tech.  I  recommend a 175   Z code grind and have your machinist degree it for you.   Your mph, class's and tires   are the sweet spot for WD45 power levels.

can someone explain lifter acceleration?

Gary in da UP wrote:  This topic has been covered many times before, past posts are a good place to start. Skip over the drama and read for the tech.  I  recommend a 175   Z code grind and have your machinist degree it for you.   Your mph, class's and tires   are the sweet spot for WD45 power levels.

well i tried, but as soon as i hit search it said i had timed out and made me start over, i tired it again today and it still did it, so where would i find a cam grinder worth his salt, and should i regrind mine or get a new one, i do believe i have the wd cam in the motor and a wd 45 cam in the parts shed, i was told it was the same, and kind of figured they were the same, what exactly do you mean by its the sweet spot for wd 45 power levels? i am confused by this, also i have no intentions of running any faster ever, so this means i am shooting for a torque monster and lugger rather than aiming for horsepower and rpms, thanks a bunch guys

A stock WD45 shouldn't have any trouble at 2.5 mph in first gear, the overbore kit is just added insurance, I would save my money unless you plan to move up the power curve at some point which in any case you would still need a new camshaft to enhance any modifications made at that time.

 Pretty hard to help a guy who makes a question into a moving target.

  PM'd you my phone number, give me a call, I'll try to help.

If you are tearing down the engine why not go bigger on the stroke? A 5.5 stroke doesnt cost very much and then you wont have to worry about power and run 38in rubber. Just a thought I know funding isnt always there. I just built a engine and I could kick myself for not going bigger on the stroke just to save a few bucks.

Gary in da UP wrote:   PM'd you my phone number, give me a call, I'll try to help.

sent ya one back dont know if you got it, but i just went with a new provider and broke my phone and according to the store guy it "may be up to 4 weeks" before i get a new one and i dont have a home phone, luckily people arent calling or texting me constantly

use the m and w pistons if they are for a wc will have to machine a little off the top so they don't hit the head. U said u have some junk wcs laying around? Take ur handclutch housing out and bolt a wc trans in where it was will bolt right up then put 38s on it run front trans in 3rd to slow ur groung speed down.

Barney Taylor goes by 472 big block on this forum. He ground a "175" cam for us a few years ago. I would try to PM him and see if he could help you out. He did us well, I'll tell you that!    

AaronSEIA wrote: I'll throw this question out there.  If he is basically running a bone stock 4 1/8 overbore WD45 engine at stock rpm and on stock rubber, will anything other than a stock cam really be worth it?  I guess I could see a 175 cam helping because they did have more power, but how much of that comes from higher rpm and compression?  If he wants to stay "stock", then 175 pistons on the 45 crank and a 175 cam would be the way to go, right? AaronSEIA

 YES .  

DrAllis wrote:  In many Antique Pulling Clubs a morphidite "two transmission" chassis like that wouldn't be allowed. I've seen a couple tractors from Missouri that have the torque tube completely removed from "WD's" to lighten them up another 100 pounds and that also wouldn't be allowed in a majority of Antique Clubs. If you can't wheel 38" rubber, you need more engine, not slower gears.

Telling the truth there brother bigger is better lol

The oil pump gears is a fairly simple to get around . When you remove the cam to be ground remove the oil pump gear from oil pump that cm core donor came from then which ever pump you decide to run will just need that gear installed on it to match you cam. The engines that come from boss mans shop has the pump with no bypass for the extra oil pressure to ensure oil wedge and offset the extra pressure the increased power is exerting or loading bearings with

you know my boss and your brother pointed out the lifter diameter as charles at cam crafts does on his web site to a fellow that started a topic called crossbreading a while back. Be a good title to search

What you really need to do is look through those old threads, even the one called "thinking of top fuel machining" from that mlpankey fella. It's to bad I cleaned out my file mamager and the pictures were deleted, you could read on and on in some of these threads where we (meaning several forum members) taught that pan key fella how to get rods to clear, how to degree cams, basic math and geometry principals, etc.

What does jpankey stand for there "jeaous pankey"

Anyway on a serious note your existing camshaft is about 20 degrees of duration short of what a good lower rpm pulling cam for one of these engines should be. What this means in simple terms is that your valves are open and moving air for a certain amount of crankshaft rotation. The engine can take advantage of more time to breathe, a longer duration can will do that. If the ranging has to much time to breathe meaning the duration is to long, it will pomp air back out the ports instead of trapping it and using it. If you look in your other thread there Blue, "where to get a cam" you'll find a prime example of specs for such a cam posted by pankey. A cam in that area will make your engine sound like a sick air compressor and you won't have any problem lugging, it'll kill plenty quick.

One of the advantages to a ground cam is that the valves will open at a faster rate, meaning less degrees of crankshaft rotation to get the valve open and in a range where it flows more air.You can also controll when the events happen by how the cam is ground and WHERE you position it, meaning how you time it to the crankshaft. I don't expect for a lot of people to understand how to measure out and degree a cam..... just don't take much previously posted information on this forum as it'll be a waste of your time. Spend $20 and buy a good book on these subjects.

I degree the cams, lock things togather and mark the gear when I send a cam out. Then there's little question. But people will still do something wrong, call and complain. Then once they get the plug wires back where they belong in the correct fireing order things are fine. Now I'm just giveing examples but i've learned a lot selling parts, never assume that everyone knows everything for sure. But those who are willing to learn will do well.

I've typically got some cams on hand if you want one, if you want some specs on what works well, I posted some recently, or send a pm pm, call sometime. I've gotten cams from certain grinders that just don't work well. It seams that everyone thinks lift is important and and wants as much as possible, it's better to have a little less with a little rounder nose, holding the valve at a lesser maximum height but for a longer period of time. Some engines are different, but you don't have to worry about these Allis is heads flowing much much air.

Edited by wi50 - 25 Aug 2013 at 10:12am