226 overbore sleves

 

I typically put the block in my blast cabinet and blast it clean, but if you don't have access to a blaster, clean the top and bottom counterbores.  Put a little sleve retainer around the bottom counterbore and knock the sleves in.  I put an inch or so of a fiber block filler with for extra insurance that the water will stay where it is supposed to. The fiber filler isn't hard on tooling if the block gets bored in the future.  One could bore the sleve out, or heat it and drive them back out. 

 

Once installed the sleves need to be bored, honed and the block decked.  Usually 4.25 to 4.28 bore.  Lots of automotive application pistons available in these bore sizes depending on your rod and crank combo.

 

Set 1 is made from nice take out 426 Allis liners, 4.25 bore without much wear, I think with instalation and honeing, one could run a 4.25 piston. $250 shipped

 

Set 2 is made from some worn 404 Deere liners, 4.25 bore and would need to be bored to 4.265 or larger to clean up. $200 shipped.

 

I'll send some fiber block filler with them.

 

The bottom counterbore in the Allis block is 4.475" so one could go to a 4.3 bore depending on how thin you want the sleve hanging in the crankcase.

 

Marty 715-790-1869

 

Grout based block fillers will wick water, I hate them.

 

Fiber based are 100% water tight.  The block filler I use on everything is RocBlok from Competition Products in Oshkosh Wi.  They claim it to be 100% water tight and that's what I've found.  I love this stuff, it doesn;t hurt tooling when cutting into it, it's light and verry high temperature resistance.  I've got filled cylinder heads holding up to exhaust temperatures against the stuff. I've got cylinder heads half full of the stuff and circulating water on top to cool while the port is cut through into the filler below.  It's a good way to get around the constraints of original castings when porting and keep some water circulating.  It's cheap at about $50 per 25 pounds.