I typically put the block in my blast cabinet and blast it clean, but if you don't have access to a blaster, clean the top and bottom counterbores.  Put a little sleve retainer around the bottom counterbore and knock the sleves in.  I put an inch or so of a fiber block filler with for extra insurance that the water will stay where it is supposed to. The fiber filler isn't hard on tooling if the block gets bored in the future.  One could bore the sleve out, or heat it and drive them back out. 

 

Once installed the sleves need to be bored, honed and the block decked.  Usually 4.25 to 4.28 bore.  Lots of automotive application pistons available in these bore sizes depending on your rod and crank combo.

 

Set 1 is made from nice take out 426 Allis liners, 4.25 bore without much wear, I think with instalation and honeing, one could run a 4.25 piston. $250 shipped

 

Set 2 is made from some worn 404 Deere liners, 4.25 bore and would need to be bored to 4.265 or larger to clean up. $200 shipped.

 

I'll send some fiber block filler with them.

 

The bottom counterbore in the Allis block is 4.475" so one could go to a 4.3 bore depending on how thin you want the sleve hanging in the crankcase.

 

Marty 715-790-1869

 

Grout based block fillers will wick water, I hate them.

 

Fiber based are 100% water tight.  The block filler I use on everything is RocBlok from Competition Products in Oshkosh Wi.  They claim it to be 100% water tight and that's what I've found.  I love this stuff, it doesn;t hurt tooling when cutting into it, it's light and verry high temperature resistance.  I've got filled cylinder heads holding up to exhaust temperatures against the stuff. I've got cylinder heads half full of the stuff and circulating water on top to cool while the port is cut through into the filler below.  It's a good way to get around the constraints of original castings when porting and keep some water circulating.  It's cheap at about $50 per 25 pounds.

 

thank you

But, Rod We all know Spunky can't add an subtract. Look up a few posts... Measuring skills, important while building an engine and pulling the sled :) 

 

#1.  was water leaking past the sleves into the oil getting so hot in 15 seconds that it was turned to steam and sucked out the exhaust.

 

#2.  was a leaking head gasket, leaking water into the cylinders.  But there is no water at the head gasket and the engine is a dry block.

 

#3.  excessive blowby that waits untill the end of a run to appear.  Continues when the engine is at idle and cylinder pressure is low.  This doesn't make sense either.

 

What will # 4 guess be?  A magic Genie?  Make a wish spankey!!!! maybe she'll give you a brain so you can think before posting

 

 

Well it's # 4

 

 It is oil smoke.  The crankcase breather was hooked to a plug I made that fit in the oil fill hole on the old magneto drive.  Timeing gears would sling oil up at the hose, the crankcase evacuater would eventually pull some oil up the hose and into the exhaust stream.  It took a little time, hence my magic Genie would only appear after 12-15 seconds. 

 

I didn't want to hook the crankcase evacuater in the valve cover, it may hold excessive oil on the head and in the lifter galley.  Rember (again for the village idiot) the old 201 blocks were solid on the bottom of the lifter rail with the oil return hole in the front.  Unlike the 226 blocks that had wide open holes in between some of the lifter bores.  I suppose I could have knocked a hole in the block somewhere else and made a fitting, but that extra oil filler hole that needed to be plugged anyway was a handy place to hook a hose to.

 

It's simple physics explained once again for "jealous mitch".  High velocity exhaust gasses cause a decrease in pressure when passing an orfice.  That orfice is hooked to a hose to pull a vacuume on the crankcase to help seal rings and evacuate any pressure.  Oil is pulled up the tube after time and when combined with hot exhaust gasses a magic Genie appears. 

 

Please try and rember this "jealous mitch".  I explained it to you long ago and you were to dumb to understand it then as you have proven you are now.  Not learning even basic physics and jumping to conclusions will never get you verry far.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.  Because of the fireing order of a V8, the collector diameter is often verry large.  A large collector diameter slows the velocity of the exhaust down but it is necessary as the time between exhaust pulses is less.  An inline 4 cyl can benifit from a verry small exhaust collector diameter diameter, there's a full 180* of crankshaft rotation between exhaust pulses giveing the exhaust plenty of time to exit.  Thus a verry high velocity exhaust stream can pull more vacuume on a single hose than a V8 can pull on 2.... Though I don't expect you to be able to understand this concept.

 

 

My shop windows are dirty if you wish to come and lick them, I'll be here the rest of the winter.   

 

Sorry Spanky, i don't own a Farmall M. The only Farmall i own is a 1456... So you bring your WD up and try to drag it around. Then when you get your stupid butt back to Tennessee, you can get back on here and tell everybody how that worked out for you! LMAO! I am buliding a WC to pull with, and i have talked to WI50 about it several times. He seems very knowledgeable about engines, something i wouldn't dare say about you. All i have seen you do is talk, Marty posted a video of a very strong running WC and i will say it's quite impressive..... It by far out ranks your tape measure photo.