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Clutches in my WD puller...

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cotncrzy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 7:55am
  Ok guys,
 
   The pulls are over for awhile, it's time to do some R&R. I need to replace the engine clutch and pressure plate, and surface the flywheel. I also am trying to decide on the hand clutch. I have used it up this year, I only have two shims left. I have been told a WD 45 clutch will hold up, it's got one more disc.
   Where is the best place to get a GOOD engine clutch and pressure plate? I think I can get a WD45 hand clutch locally. I have debated on taking it out, but my 8 year old depends on it for smooth take off, due to his short legs. I could make a pedal extention I guess. The engine clutch started giving trouble half way through the summer and we all started using the hand clutch for take off. When I bought the tractor this clutch was running in "gear oil". I drained it after discovering this, washed out the clutch, and replaced it with 821 hyd. fluid. The clutch has give trouble since! Dad said 30 wt. motor oil was the correct oil. In case you dont know, I have a 1950 WD (chassis).
 
  Let's hear the opinions, I want to begin this project after the New Year. Is there anything else I need to look at? Plenty of knowledge here to make this a one time fix. TIA
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve fischer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 8:16am
how much h/p , can build foot clutch to take 100 h/p or stock 9 spring,have new hand clutch plates thanks steve 507 766 0551
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotncrzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 8:23am
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotncrzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 8:29am
I wish I had a dollar for every time I have been asked that ! I could pay for this fix. I don't have a clue, no pto to dyno. I  guess and tell people 70 hp???? I havent done a great amount to the combine engine. Custom pistons to get the compression high is the major thing. Lots of people I pull against laugh and say "YEA RIGHT!" when they hear me tell that. my e mail is good, prices???
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 1:10pm
Just yesterday I talked to Sam at Theobold Custom Manufacturing in Stacyville Iowa on an Allis clutch for a real high torque engine.  He (a professional clutch remanufacturer) claimed that the plate load on a 6 spring can be just as high as a 9 spring when he builds them and not to worry about getting a 9 spring core.
 
The reason I called him was to see how thin he could make clutch discs for me, the OEM discs for the WC-WD45 are about .350 thick. 
 
I made a flat flywheel yesterday and moved the clutch surface in closer to the crankshaft flange by .500".  The OEM disc is .350, I can get 2 discs at .300 and a .250 floater for a stack with a total of .850.  So in order to make everything fit, I machine a flywheel with a clutch surface closer to the crank flange.
 
I make stands a set height to hole the pressure plate in it's original location, and I machine a step on the stands at the right hieght to slide the ring gear around the stands.
 
I make either a steel flywheel or use an old one from a junk Gleaner engine which fits the bill easy and can be cut down to my dimensions.  What I end up with is a two disc clutch that keeps everything in the OEM locations, and uses the OEM pressure plate, throw out berring and pilot berring.  The only additional cost is an additional clutch disc.  Now you have one that can be slipped takeing off on hard pulling sleds and will hold any amount and never slip.  Maintains original feel of the clutch pedel and fits........ all for just a verry small additional cost.  I save about 30 pounds over the OEM setup if I make a steel one and lighten it.  Or even more if one went through the trouble of alumnium with a wear plate in it.  If a guy wanted a real heavy one he could leave more material hanging on the back side over the crank flange if makeing from steel stock to start with.
 
I had thought of makeing it with a Ford diaphram pressure plate assembly but it's really no advantage and the finger type are adjustable.
 
 
So I have a floater, presssure plate and a flywheel here that I made.  I need to make the stands yet which is a simple task. I'll try and get around to posting pictures of the assembly later today or tomorrow....... I'd better get it done as it's leaving on Sunday for someone's tractor.
 
I had made a flywheel many years ago when I built my old WC and made a twin disc clutch of a different design.  I put pictures of it up on YT Mag a couple years back if that intrests you.


Edited by wi50 - 13 Dec 2012 at 1:13pm
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 5:26pm
I'm not done but tomorrow will wring out the rest of the stands, one set holds the pressure plate at the proper distance and the other set will hold the ring gear so that when on an engine bolted in the bellhousing it's in it's original location.  I don't have enough clearance from the pressure plate to it's bolt pattern to run a large enough diameter stand to simply put the ring gear on and rather than machine a special stand it's just as easy to put a 12 hole pattern in the flywheel and use 6 for the ring gear and 6 for the pressure plate.  I just held the floater plate in for refrence.
 
 
I just used a Gleaner E flywheel, I'd make it from billlet steel but this engine will never see much over 2000 RPM and there's lots of Gleaner flywheels around that are free.
 
My total out of pocket expense....... a few carbide inserts in the lathe tools and a little hardware and raw materials..... $20.  Add the value of a pressurre plate and I need to buy 2 clutch discs rather than 1.
 
Here's a few pics of the assembly so far. 
 
 
"see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotncrzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 7:02am
I love the idea and set up. I dont have access to the machines to do this. I have a landlord with a few tools, but no kind of mill. He has done all my "outside the box" machine work so far. Getting local shops to do something other than "standard stuff", like surfacing, .etc is impossible. I plan on increasing enging h.p. in the future. I want a clutch that will 90 to 100 h.p. I have saw what they call a heavy duty, clutch, which is a button clutch, with a nine spring pressure plate. I hope the flywheel of my combine engine isn't in the scrap hopper...
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:37am
The fingers will break when you beef a six spring up to hold what a 9 spring plate  will . Been there done that Felton clutch does my work .  When you resurface the flywheel make sure they turn the outer ring down for proper depth. The hand clutch needs to go they always cost you distance .  4 buttons will hold 100 hp but i like two but thats tough on flywheel and depending on the sled sometimes tough to get it moving if sleds sucked tight to the ground at start because of tire driveline shock.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotncrzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:47am
Are you saying the hand clutch slipps causing this? We always spin out unless there is a engine problem.
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 12:27pm
Originally posted by cotncrzy cotncrzy wrote:

Are you saying the hand clutch slipps causing this? We always spin out unless there is a engine problem.
the hand clutch slipping will always allow you to spin out untill its completely gone.  A good hand clutch on a 85 to 100 hp tractor will cost you ten ft at every pull and you will think your engine is a bear remove it and when you start slipping a button clutch at end of the pull you will have a bear of a engine.  Its nonsense to beef up the factory foot clutch and leave the  weakest clutch from the factory the hand clutch in the tractor. jmho

Edited by mlpankey - 14 Dec 2012 at 12:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 1:09pm

I just reread about the kid . remove the hand clutch and when you put a foot clutch /pressure plate that will hold your hp chances are he want be able to push it in. the remedy dirt track hydraulic clutch pedal located where he can reach it and the cylinder attached to where the factory pedal attaches to throw out bearing fork.



Edited by mlpankey - 14 Dec 2012 at 1:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WildBill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 3:17pm
Good job Pank ! Lets keep cotn-z boy in the pulling seat !! Family is first .
Allis fan for life !   B,C,2-WC'S,WD45G,D19G,190xt ,LLSS 8010, terra tiger refurbished
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mrgoodwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 7:38pm
wi- love the 2 disc and at that kind of cost everyone should run one....either to hold power of to last forever
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:04pm
Originally posted by Mrgoodwrench Mrgoodwrench wrote:

wi- love the 2 disc and at that kind of cost everyone should run one....either to hold power of to last forever
we learnedback in the 80s drag racing with tall slicks that a light flywheel dont work even with a heavy fluid filled torque converter let alone the height of 38 inch tractor tires . jmho   i guess its not hard to get by the key board commando posers.

Edited by mlpankey - 14 Dec 2012 at 8:06pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mrgoodwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:16pm
Originally posted by mlpankey mlpankey wrote:

Originally posted by Mrgoodwrench Mrgoodwrench wrote:

wi- love the 2 disc and at that kind of cost everyone should run one....either to hold power of to last forever
we learnedback in the 80s drag racing with tall slicks that a light flywheel dont work even with a heavy fluid filled torque converter let alone the height of 38 inch tractor tires . jmho   i guess its not hard to get by the key board commando posers.
you lost me pankey...what doesn't work about a light flywheel?...especially with an auto trans?...i know sfi rated is heavier than stock but its not like its wieghted...besides thats a flexplate and has nothing to do with holding power. a friend of mine ran a 1300hp alki and that flexplate was less than twice as thick as my lower rated sfi, it just has 6 lugs on the converter  that are much bigger than stock.
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:25pm
you got to get the tires turning without pulling the engine rpms down.   sfi flex plate is quiet a bit heavier than a oem flex plate and its energy from the mass shocks the slicks. most allis gas 226 antiques get a steel plate added to the allready 100 lb tractor flywheel . fyi remember also fly wheel stored energy has more to do with diameter than weight but diameter is limited by bellhousing id. 1300 hp doesnt need as much stored energy in a flywheel as 800 does either to turn the same tire size and acelerate the same car weight.

Edited by mlpankey - 14 Dec 2012 at 8:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rod B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:34pm
But pankey, just a few weeks ago you wanted the lightest crankshaft possiable, less rotating weight you claimed was better. Why the change in story?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rod B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:42pm
Steel is approx. 422 lb per cubic foot. Since pankey claims that most 226 pulling engines get 100 lb weight added to the flywheel would anyone care to take a guess where all that weight would get added?

I would also question why he claims to have drilled his flywheel full of holes?

Commando's make up bogus stories.

That looks like a great clutch WI. It makes a some envious.

Edited by Rod B - 14 Dec 2012 at 8:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:57pm

I simply removed weight from one area say 6 oclock on the flywheel and move it to 12 oclock on the balancer,hub, pulley to externally balance the crank at 5000 rpms on the spin balancer . the weight is grams a 6 inch stroker not externally balanced will jump out of the block right after it shakes the fillings out of your teeth.  My story isnt no more full of hypocritical holes than yours and wi is that cubic inches want turn rpms . He choose 500 inches for his new puller why did he not choose rpms and 240 inches?  like he preaches for the wc .   flywheel stores the energy not the crank. larger diameter flywheel needs less mass to store the same energy . This is why the builder you and wi call to get secret info from adds the plate to his builds and it isnt another 100 lbs . the cast factory flywheel is close to 100 lbs by its self.



Edited by mlpankey - 14 Dec 2012 at 9:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mrgoodwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 9:04pm
i won't try to argue on the pulling side as i have little experience(almost all behind the wrench...hope to remedy that soon). but i'll disagrre that the flywheel mass is needed to "shock the slicks"...maybe i don't speak pankey well enough but what is that? you not leaving the line at idle and trying to get the rpm up from a lug. you are at full throttle, nearlt full rpm, generally with a trans brake on. you trans is in 1st gear and reverse , when released the converted if free to drive the trans through the "fluid coupling" it is all much smoother than it seems as the drive train is already loaded. the more hp/torque and deaper gears you have the harded the "slicks" are turned. this is how i understand it although i am open to corrections.
 
 
also of all the antique pullers I know none have added weight to a flywheel...has anyone here?
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mlpankey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 9:12pm
[QUOTE=Mrgoodwrench] i won't try to argue on the pulling side as i have little experience(almost all behind the wrench...hope to remedy that soon). but i'll disagrre that the flywheel mass is needed to "shock the slicks"...maybe i don't speak pankey well enough but what is that? you not leaving the line at idle and trying to get the rpm up from a lug. you are at full throttle, nearlt full rpm, generally with a trans brake on. you trans is in 1st gear and reverse , when released the converted if free to drive the trans through the "fluid coupling" it is all much smoother than it seems as the drive train is already loaded. the more hp/torque and deaper gears you have the harded the "slicks" are turned. this is how i understand it although i am open to corrections.
 
 
also of all the antique pullers I know none have added weight to a flywheel...has anyone here?
[/QUOTE with exception the more hp the taller the gear you pull is ] and if you dont have the  flywheel stored energy for the hp your engine rpm falls under the load and converter unlocks.  less hp more energy storage capacity needed more gears needed. for istance a 350 sbc can use a 600 gear for the 1/8  a 500 inch bbc can use a 488 gear

Edited by mlpankey - 14 Dec 2012 at 9:16pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nyacdon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 9:56pm
one bit i will add is way back in the early 60's we were ac round baling with a dc-4 case with the ausco-lambert wet multiple plate pto clutch--it used 10w motor oil in the hydraulic pto system.this clutch was a constant source of failure until case came with a bulletin to drain the system and fill it with atf transmission fluid.never again did this system fail--i believe this could be helpful with the various ac hand clutches--pullers or otherwise--worth a look.    good luck
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i'm just gonna agree to disagree with you pankey, i just don't believe the flywheel has as much to do with it
 
 
imho, i think wi50's clutch set up would be great for any puller, should be verry reliable for a close to stock tractor and help a heavier build manage the power
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cotncrzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 6:47am
    I didnt ask about transmission fluid because I wanted to see if someone else had thought of it. Looks as if this would be the best for the clutches, slippage etc..
C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nyacdon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:16am
the finding with the recommended oil change was film thickness--10w motor oil didn't thin out enough so allowed slippage and the atf solved the problem.sure made running the roto-balers much more fun.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:34am
Yup. I add about 13 pounds on the front side of a WC/WD flywheel and 20 pounds around the outside of a D17 flywheel. It helps in an open ground speed class to slow the rate of RPM loss when the sled hits you at the end. It works.....like a flywheel on a square baler.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wi50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 11:38am
The sled we normally pull here is a drop pan sled and it's over 52,000 pounds.  When I build my high rpm WC engine I made a steel flywheel and left as much material hanging back over the crank twards the engine as I could.  I left it as large as I could get in the bellhousing.  I think it's 140 pounds.   
 
I had put pictures of it on YT mag a while back.
 
It was sure nice to have takeing off, I'd usually try to be around 4500 RPM and could slip it a little to get rolling.  When the pan dropped on the sled that flywheel would help carry, but I was dealing with an engine turning 5000-6500 RPM at that time. 
 
The engine this twin disc is going on is a 6 1/2 stroke engine and will run at 2060 RPM, or less depending on if it's in a paced class or not. I used the Gleaner flywheel to start with simply because it was there, the money I saved on material bought all the materials for a set of billet connecting rods.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC200Puller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 12:05pm
It does depend on the set up that you are running and how you run it .Just remember the most important thing is to have a clutch and flywheel that will not gernade and hurt or kill you or bystanders!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LouSWPA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 12:28pm
I'm a bit confuse on this hand clutch thing. If the wheels are spinning, how is the hand clutch slipping causing a loss in distance? I was always given the impression that the bathed in oil hand clutch was one of the strong points of a AC drive line
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mrgoodwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 1:21pm
was wondering that myself lou...if you can spin the clutch must be holding
There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!!
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