Clutches in my WD puller...
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Topic: Clutches in my WD puller...
Posted By: cotncrzy
Subject: Clutches in my WD puller...
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 7:55am
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Ok guys, The pulls are over for awhile, it's time to do some R&R. I need to replace the engine clutch and pressure plate, and surface the flywheel. I also am trying to decide on the hand clutch. I have used it up this year, I only have two shims left. I have been told a WD 45 clutch will hold up, it's got one more disc. Where is the best place to get a GOOD engine clutch and pressure plate? I think I can get a WD45 hand clutch locally. I have debated on taking it out, but my 8 year old depends on it for smooth take off, due to his short legs. I could make a pedal extention I guess. The engine clutch started giving trouble half way through the summer and we all started using the hand clutch for take off. When I bought the tractor this clutch was running in "gear oil". I drained it after discovering this, washed out the clutch, and replaced it with 821 hyd. fluid. The clutch has give trouble since! Dad said 30 wt. motor oil was the correct oil. In case you dont know, I have a 1950 WD (chassis). Let's hear the opinions, I want to begin this project after the New Year. Is there anything else I need to look at? Plenty of knowledge here to make this a one time fix. TIA ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Replies:
Posted By: steve fischer
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 8:16am
| how much h/p , can build foot clutch to take 100 h/p or stock 9 spring,have new hand clutch plates thanks steve 507 766 0551 |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 8:23am
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------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 8:29am
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I wish I had a dollar for every time I have been asked that ! I could pay for this fix. I don't have a clue, no pto to dyno. I guess and tell people 70 hp???? I havent done a great amount to the combine engine. Custom pistons to get the compression high is the major thing. Lots of people I pull against laugh and say "YEA RIGHT!" when they hear me tell that. my e mail is good, prices??? ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 1:10pm
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Just yesterday I talked to Sam at Theobold Custom Manufacturing in Stacyville Iowa on an Allis clutch for a real high torque engine. He (a professional clutch remanufacturer) claimed that the plate load on a 6 spring can be just as high as a 9 spring when he builds them and not to worry about getting a 9 spring core.
The reason I called him was to see how thin he could make clutch discs for me, the OEM discs for the WC-WD45 are about .350 thick.
I made a flat flywheel yesterday and moved the clutch surface in closer to the crankshaft flange by .500". The OEM disc is .350, I can get 2 discs at .300 and a .250 floater for a stack with a total of .850. So in order to make everything fit, I machine a flywheel with a clutch surface closer to the crank flange.
I make stands a set height to hole the pressure plate in it's original location, and I machine a step on the stands at the right hieght to slide the ring gear around the stands.
I make either a steel flywheel or use an old one from a junk Gleaner engine which fits the bill easy and can be cut down to my dimensions. What I end up with is a two disc clutch that keeps everything in the OEM locations, and uses the OEM pressure plate, throw out berring and pilot berring. The only additional cost is an additional clutch disc. Now you have one that can be slipped takeing off on hard pulling sleds and will hold any amount and never slip. Maintains original feel of the clutch pedel and fits........ all for just a verry small additional cost. I save about 30 pounds over the OEM setup if I make a steel one and lighten it. Or even more if one went through the trouble of alumnium with a wear plate in it. If a guy wanted a real heavy one he could leave more material hanging on the back side over the crank flange if makeing from steel stock to start with.
I had thought of makeing it with a Ford diaphram pressure plate assembly but it's really no advantage and the finger type are adjustable.
So I have a floater, presssure plate and a flywheel here that I made. I need to make the stands yet which is a simple task. I'll try and get around to posting pictures of the assembly later today or tomorrow....... I'd better get it done as it's leaving on Sunday for someone's tractor.
I had made a flywheel many years ago when I built my old WC and made a twin disc clutch of a different design. I put pictures of it up on YT Mag a couple years back if that intrests you. ------------- "see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet" |
Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 13 Dec 2012 at 5:26pm
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I'm not done but tomorrow will wring out the rest of the stands, one set holds the pressure plate at the proper distance and the other set will hold the ring gear so that when on an engine bolted in the bellhousing it's in it's original location. I don't have enough clearance from the pressure plate to it's bolt pattern to run a large enough diameter stand to simply put the ring gear on and rather than machine a special stand it's just as easy to put a 12 hole pattern in the flywheel and use 6 for the ring gear and 6 for the pressure plate. I just held the floater plate in for refrence.
I just used a Gleaner E flywheel, I'd make it from billlet steel but this engine will never see much over 2000 RPM and there's lots of Gleaner flywheels around that are free.
My total out of pocket expense....... a few carbide inserts in the lathe tools and a little hardware and raw materials..... $20. Add the value of a pressurre plate and I need to buy 2 clutch discs rather than 1.
Here's a few pics of the assembly so far.
  ------------- "see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet" |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 7:02am
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I love the idea and set up. I dont have access to the machines to do this. I have a landlord with a few tools, but no kind of mill. He has done all my "outside the box" machine work so far. Getting local shops to do something other than "standard stuff", like surfacing, .etc is impossible. I plan on increasing enging h.p. in the future. I want a clutch that will 90 to 100 h.p. I have saw what they call a heavy duty, clutch, which is a button clutch, with a nine spring pressure plate. I hope the flywheel of my combine engine isn't in the scrap hopper... ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:37am
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The fingers will break when you beef a six spring up to hold what a 9 spring plate will . Been there done that Felton clutch does my work . When you resurface the flywheel make sure they turn the outer ring down for proper depth. The hand clutch needs to go they always cost you distance . 4 buttons will hold 100 hp but i like two but thats tough on flywheel and depending on the sled sometimes tough to get it moving if sleds sucked tight to the ground at start because of tire driveline shock. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:47am
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Are you saying the hand clutch slipps causing this? We always spin out unless there is a engine problem. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 12:27pm
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
cotncrzy wrote:Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 1:09pm
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I just reread about the kid . remove the hand clutch and when you put a foot clutch /pressure plate that will hold your hp chances are he want be able to push it in. the remedy dirt track hydraulic clutch pedal located where he can reach it and the cylinder attached to where the factory pedal attaches to throw out bearing fork. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: WildBill
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 3:17pm
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Good job Pank ! Lets keep cotn-z boy in the pulling seat !! Family is first . ------------- Allis fan for life ! B,C,2-WC'S,WD45G,D19G,190xt ,LLSS 8010, terra tiger refurbished |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 7:38pm
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wi- love the 2 disc and at that kind of cost everyone should run one....either to hold power of to last forever ------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:04pm
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:16pm
------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:25pm
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you got to get the tires turning without pulling the engine rpms down. sfi flex plate is quiet a bit heavier than a oem flex plate and its energy from the mass shocks the slicks. most allis gas 226 antiques get a steel plate added to the allready 100 lb tractor flywheel . fyi remember also fly wheel stored energy has more to do with diameter than weight but diameter is limited by bellhousing id. 1300 hp doesnt need as much stored energy in a flywheel as 800 does either to turn the same tire size and acelerate the same car weight. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:34pm
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But pankey, just a few weeks ago you wanted the lightest crankshaft possiable, less rotating weight you claimed was better. Why the change in story? ------------- for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers |
Posted By: Rod B
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:42pm
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Steel is approx. 422 lb per cubic foot. Since pankey claims that most 226 pulling engines get 100 lb weight added to the flywheel would anyone care to take a guess where all that weight would get added? I would also question why he claims to have drilled his flywheel full of holes? Commando's make up bogus stories. That looks like a great clutch WI. It makes a some envious. ------------- for the money there is nothing better than provoking idiots and posers |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 8:57pm
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I simply removed weight from one area say 6 oclock on the flywheel and move it to 12 oclock on the balancer,hub, pulley to externally balance the crank at 5000 rpms on the spin balancer . the weight is grams a 6 inch stroker not externally balanced will jump out of the block right after it shakes the fillings out of your teeth. My story isnt no more full of hypocritical holes than yours and wi is that cubic inches want turn rpms . He choose 500 inches for his new puller why did he not choose rpms and 240 inches? like he preaches for the wc . flywheel stores the energy not the crank. larger diameter flywheel needs less mass to store the same energy . This is why the builder you and wi call to get secret info from adds the plate to his builds and it isnt another 100 lbs . the cast factory flywheel is close to 100 lbs by its self. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 9:04pm
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i won't try to argue on the pulling side as i have little experience(almost all behind the wrench...hope to remedy that soon). but i'll disagrre that the flywheel mass is needed to "shock the slicks"...maybe i don't speak pankey well enough but what is that? you not leaving the line at idle and trying to get the rpm up from a lug. you are at full throttle, nearlt full rpm, generally with a trans brake on. you trans is in 1st gear and reverse , when released the converted if free to drive the trans through the "fluid coupling" it is all much smoother than it seems as the drive train is already loaded. the more hp/torque and deaper gears you have the harded the "slicks" are turned. this is how i understand it although i am open to corrections. also of all the antique pullers I know none have added weight to a flywheel...has anyone here? ------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 9:12pm
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[QUOTE=Mrgoodwrench] i won't try to argue on the pulling side as i have little experience(almost all behind the wrench...hope to remedy that soon). but i'll disagrre that the flywheel mass is needed to "shock the slicks"...maybe i don't speak pankey well enough but what is that? you not leaving the line at idle and trying to get the rpm up from a lug. you are at full throttle, nearlt full rpm, generally with a trans brake on. you trans is in 1st gear and reverse , when released the converted if free to drive the trans through the "fluid coupling" it is all much smoother than it seems as the drive train is already loaded. the more hp/torque and deaper gears you have the harded the "slicks" are turned. this is how i understand it although i am open to corrections.
also of all the antique pullers I know none have added weight to a flywheel...has anyone here? [/QUOTE with exception the more hp the taller the gear you pull is ] and if you dont have the flywheel stored energy for the hp your engine rpm falls under the load and converter unlocks. less hp more energy storage capacity needed more gears needed. for istance a 350 sbc can use a 600 gear for the 1/8 a 500 inch bbc can use a 488 gear ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: nyacdon
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 9:56pm
| one bit i will add is way back in the early 60's we were ac round baling with a dc-4 case with the ausco-lambert wet multiple plate pto clutch--it used 10w motor oil in the hydraulic pto system.this clutch was a constant source of failure until case came with a bulletin to drain the system and fill it with atf transmission fluid.never again did this system fail--i believe this could be helpful with the various ac hand clutches--pullers or otherwise--worth a look. good luck |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 14 Dec 2012 at 10:06pm
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i'm just gonna agree to disagree with you pankey, i just don't believe the flywheel has as much to do with it imho, i think wi50's clutch set up would be great for any puller, should be verry reliable for a close to stock tractor and help a heavier build manage the power ------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 6:47am
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I didnt ask about transmission fluid because I wanted to see if someone else had thought of it. Looks as if this would be the best for the clutches, slippage etc.. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: nyacdon
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:16am
| the finding with the recommended oil change was film thickness--10w motor oil didn't thin out enough so allowed slippage and the atf solved the problem.sure made running the roto-balers much more fun. |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:34am
| Yup. I add about 13 pounds on the front side of a WC/WD flywheel and 20 pounds around the outside of a D17 flywheel. It helps in an open ground speed class to slow the rate of RPM loss when the sled hits you at the end. It works.....like a flywheel on a square baler. |
Posted By: wi50
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 11:38am
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The sled we normally pull here is a drop pan sled and it's over 52,000 pounds. When I build my high rpm WC engine I made a steel flywheel and left as much material hanging back over the crank twards the engine as I could. I left it as large as I could get in the bellhousing. I think it's 140 pounds.
I had put pictures of it on YT mag a while back.
It was sure nice to have takeing off, I'd usually try to be around 4500 RPM and could slip it a little to get rolling. When the pan dropped on the sled that flywheel would help carry, but I was dealing with an engine turning 5000-6500 RPM at that time.
The engine this twin disc is going on is a 6 1/2 stroke engine and will run at 2060 RPM, or less depending on if it's in a paced class or not. I used the Gleaner flywheel to start with simply because it was there, the money I saved on material bought all the materials for a set of billet connecting rods. ------------- "see what happens when you have no practical experience doing something...... you end up playing with calculators and looking stupid on the internet" |
Posted By: AC200Puller
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 12:05pm
| It does depend on the set up that you are running and how you run it .Just remember the most important thing is to have a clutch and flywheel that will not gernade and hurt or kill you or bystanders! |
Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 12:28pm
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I'm a bit confuse on this hand clutch thing. If the wheels are spinning, how is the hand clutch slipping causing a loss in distance? I was always given the impression that the bathed in oil hand clutch was one of the strong points of a AC drive line ------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27 |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 1:21pm
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was wondering that myself lou...if you can spin the clutch must be holding ------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 4:24pm
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hand clutches are alot alike foot clutches they start slipping way before you know it and get worse till you know it . Most though when that happens wants to change the foot clutch instead of locking out the hand clutch. The only difference in the foot clutch that you might get the warning its slipping before you realize it is the smoke but the hand clutch is a wet clutch so getting smoke and or linning dust isnt going to happen. some people really should build pullers cause untill they experience it they just cant be forwarned. mrgoodwrench three people myself Drallis and wi have said flywheel weight helps still confused or does it just take wi to make it gospel? ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Kip-Utah
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 4:57pm
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I don't know what a gleaner flywheel weighs, but stock WC,WD, WD45 flywheels are nowhere close to 100 pounds. I use several of these flywheels for weights on a couple of my pullers and they all weigh right at 65 pounds. The total assembly of flywheel, pressure plate, and disc probably only 85 pounds or so. Kip ------------- HANSEN'S OLD ORANGE IRON. Showing, Pulling, & Going!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 5:05pm
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 5:38pm
 Just another panky wives tale as far as I'm concerned ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 6:55pm
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Dr. Allis would you care to post again at what horsepower the hand clutches cannot hold in a wd and wd 45 puller for the guys who can not use the search engine on the farm site where we have talked several times on this before the pulling forum ever came. wives tail just like adding weight to the flywheel. pulling site must not just be for pullers. again people should build a puller cause you cant forwarn them before they experience it. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: GBACBFan
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:37pm
You are absolutely correct with that statement. Please post some pics of the pullers you've built. I suspect non-believers will take a step back when they can learn from pictures of your success. ------------- "The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Mark Twain |
Posted By: RWR
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 7:59pm
| i pull dead weight on a hard surface and we like to use the hand clutch the most they pull the the way we pull put you have to use the 3 plate clutch and it will hold at 70 hp. |
Posted By: LouSWPA
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:21pm
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well, I wasn't asking for a fight. I'm asking why, if the wheels are spinning, does that equate to lost distance.....or did I misunderstand the original statement? and, again, I'm not arguing, I'm asking, what's the max HP for a WD/45 hand clutch and maintain some reliability? I was always told they were a pretty stout unit. please, no third grade playground "my dad can beat up your dad" BS, lets just have a simple discussion ------------- I am still confident of this; I will see the goodness of the Lord in the land of the living. Wait for the Lord; be strong and take heart and wait for the Lord. Ps 27 |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:22pm
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: DrAllis
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:31pm
| If you have a three disc hand clutch, it will transmit 50% more HP or torque than a two disc hand clutch, if both are in the same mechanical condition and spring pressure. Under an extreme load they could/can slip momentarily and you may not be able to detect the slippage of the wet clutch. I don't use one in my WD or any I've ever built because of the weight issue ( 3500 lbs class) and I don't want ANY chance of slippage to occur. |
Posted By: Fields
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:47pm
When I had Phil Brown aka D17brown . build my wd45 puller. He mad a hand clutch elimination for it. I might have a pic. Great guy to deal with. and within 80 miles from you. can't find the pic of the hand clutch elimination. But it is strong and light weight.
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Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 15 Dec 2012 at 8:52pm
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all it takes to eliminate it is another hub like the clutch bolts to slid on the rearends shaft facing the hub on the transmission and i think three grade 8 bolts washers and nuts maybe four and a 1 inch freeze plug to plug hole where shaft came through. removes 50 lbs easily cause you dont need as much fluid in tube with clutch removed. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 1:11am
| Easiest fix for the hand clutch is 3 grade 8 5/16 or 3/8 bolts, drill through the hand clutch and bolt it together. Been working fine for me, course im no commando, I actually have done it and use the tractor so its prolly a bad idea... |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 8:05am
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 10:09am
| Why remove it if I pull 4500 and 5500? 50 in the middle is great, I gotta throw 6 100lbs weights on anyway... |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 12:20pm
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Sometimes 50 extra on front or rear is more value than 50 in the middle. You should think about it a little bit thats just to easy a answere for a fellow of my pulling experience ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 2:50pm
| I've got my tractor balanced just fine, so I don't see 50 making that big of a difference. If its in the middle its helping both front and back. If you're that worried about 50lbs you should be more worried about getting a tractor on the track..... |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 3:40pm
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Carl(NWWI)
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 5:00pm
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Mine sits with 20 weights on it all the time, pull about 15 off, pull it, put about 12 or 13 back on, then put 6 of em on the 190 for the 9500, then throw 20 more on it for the 11,000, then throw 20 of em on for another guy, then finally put em back on mine, yeah, I can handle wieghts too. Ok, what i did to mine is out there, for the most simplest and cheapest to do it is bolt it together, learned it on this forum about 5 years ago, hasnt broke yet, and Ive brought home plenty of bragging rights and trophies. Carl.
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Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 7:10pm
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Since we have been talking about this does anyone like dr. allis or fred have one of the spline tubes allis manufactured to eliminate the hand clutch back in the day for show and tell. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 16 Dec 2012 at 8:48pm
pankey, i said i wouldn't argue the weight issue in a pulling application, i do disagree on a drag strip but lets let it drop as this is a pulling forum... i asked if anyone here has weighted a flywheel because i had never heard of it and no local guys are admitting to doing it...if guys are throwing an extra 100lbs of rotating wieght then it must help...wouldnt matter who said they did, if only 1 then i might be skeptical but several i believe...i have said that i have little pulling experience but i'm the type of guy that likes to learn as much on paper as he can before just biulding something, i usually find that even if you build something in a lower class the higher class tricks(if allowed under the rules) can be very helpful and i don't like to build things twice unless they break. so now if i ever get to building a puller i will consider weighting the flywheel when it is off to avoid spliting it again if i can't move the sled...as to my comments on the hand clutch, i have never seen any clutch wet or dry, hand or foot, in any application slip under load and still let the tires spin. that would have to be very small ammounts of slippage to still get enough torque to the wheel to spin it. ------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 6:32am
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: mgburchard
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 7:46am
| your the MAN PANKEY tell them how its done |
Posted By: Ken(MI)
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 2:28pm
Not positive that this is the correct coupling or not, but I made some like this to eliminate the hand clutch, easy, simple and effective, no bolts, no cobble job, and no slip.
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Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 6:10pm
i never called anyone foolish, you'rethe one always one the attack. i have stated several times in several posts that i ask questions to LEARN from people who know more than me(you might try it some time). as for you hand clutch if you think it might slip take it out. i merely asked how it could be slipping and still spinning the tires, fact is if you cant feel it slip you don't know it is while you are running it. onto flywheels...let it go man, clearly pullers benifit from adding weight, do they all add weight, no, so there will always be difference of opinion. and since neither of us drag race anymore i doubt we'll be testing it on the strip either. my car planted my ass in the seat hard off the line with a factory flywheel so i don't think i needed it maybe some guys do in their set up fine. so many forum members know so much it is pretty easy to find one that knows more than another, contrary to what you may think there are some out there that know more than you, maybe not on every topic but you don't know everything...its ok ------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 7:46pm
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why are you so argumentative if your asking to learn ? now your trying to argue that I am not the smartest person on the site . well start it as another topic and I will argue that I am if you need to. ------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: CTuckerNWIL
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 10:11pm
Here I go quoting Mitch again  I don't see ANY argument. He is simply stating facts. ------------- http://www.ae-ta.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
Posted By: Mrgoodwrench
Date Posted: 17 Dec 2012 at 11:27pm
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thanks tucker i thought i might have been typing angry and not seeing it! lol "now your trying to argue that I am not the smartest person on the site . well start it as another topic and I will argue that I am if you need to." i see we are in third grade again...i can't believe a post about clutches degrated to this...cotncrzy, i apologize for being involved in killing your thread. wi...nice clutch might have to have you build one for me someday...pankey, grow up
------------- There are 3 ways to do job GOOD, FAST, CHEAP. YOU MAY CHOOSE 2. If its FAST & CHEAP it won't be GOOD, if it's GOOD & CHEAP it won't be FAST, and if its GOOD & FAST it won't be CHEAP!!!! |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2012 at 6:33am
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I want to thank everyone for their responses, and welcome more. There is lots of good ideas here. I knew the knowledge here was very abundant. There are suggestions here I dont fully understand, but they keep me thinking. Thinking is what everything is built of. I learned a long time ago not to ask someone a question and then argue the answer... I am new at this sport, we came a long way the first season, and it is all owed to people with opinions that offered them to me. I feel there is room for improvement in the tractor, and experince is the best teacher there is. I have very little, and there is tons here. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |
Posted By: mlpankey
Date Posted: 18 Dec 2012 at 7:23am
------------- people if they don't already know it you can't tell them. quote yogi berra |
Posted By: AC Billy
Date Posted: 30 Dec 2012 at 8:28am
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This might be a stupid idea.. and the rules may not allow it but, what if the hand clutch handle and linkage is routed via the hand clutch throw out shaft to the opposite side to tractor clutch...and also keeping the foot pedal linked in as well?  I best to look at my WD and cipher abit... |
Posted By: cotncrzy
Date Posted: 06 Jan 2013 at 9:29am
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It could be done. I could extend the pedal so he could use the dry clutch. The wet clutch is way smoother for him, he hasn't learned how to "feel" a clutch yet. I plan on replacing the WD clutch with a WD45 clutch, to pick up the extra disc and plate. I also plan on running it in Auto trans. Fluid, since no hyd. or pto is attached anymore. I plan on replacing the engine clutch with a button clutch with a 9 spring pressure plate. ------------- C, WD45,WD puller, 185, 200, 7060 Red Belly, 7060 Black Belly,8010, and a R52 Gleaner, AND PROUD OF THEM! |