7060 426 rebuild or swap

Hello, I know this topic has been discussed before but here is my particular case. I have 1975 7060 that has a spun rod bearing (see pics). I got through auction as a "parts tractor" so I don't know anything about the rest of the tractor. Is there any way to get tractor running without embarking on major overhaul first to evaluate other tractor operations/soundness?

Tractor seems intact in most other ways - roosa master IP was taken off and I don't believe tractor timing was done b4 hand, antifreeze and other fluids look ok, residual oil in pan black with metal fragments but no water/antifreeze, tranny and rear end fluids look ok, hour meter shows 1336...

If I did overhaul, it seems that past posts have indicated crank removal, magnaflux crank and other parts, maybe could turn rod journal and add undersized bearing, new rod/rod cap bolts, etc. can this be done in-frame?

Other option is to swap a 670I combine engine into tractor. which as Dr Allis has pointed out isn't necessarily simple but others have done numerous times.

looking forward to the wealth of experience on this forum and it is greatly appreciated! hope pictures come through.
Thx
Tim
rod_and_main.jpgrod_journal.jpgrod_cap.jpg7060.jpg

Emery cloth the cheap out of the journal and check size. Get undersized bearing to get close. Reassemble and run at idle only. Check condition of rest of tractor. If good decide on rebuild or transplant. This isn’t a fix but a way of determining rest of tractor condition.

Usually engine coolant systems are low pressured ~ 5-10 psi?? So if you have a helper using an air compressor charged blow gun accompanied with a rag stuffed into radiator cap hole, then you could easily get a LITTLE pressure into engine coolant system. DON’t GET CRAZY on pressure. While helper has coolant pressurized, crawl under engine’s opened crankcase with a flashlight & watch for any coolant leaks. OR if you’re DIY & no helper, lay some flat dry corrugated cardboard under engine, apply air pressure, & wait 15-20 minutes?? to view for any possible coolant drips/drops onto dry cardboard.
For a longer pressure duration & if you have access to a good sealing radiator cap, then maybe sacrifice cap by drilling a hole into center of radiator cap to insert an inexpensive tubeless wheel valve stem into it. Install valve stem cap & air charge it to whichever psi you think you need( check psi with tire pressure gauge), place an empty clean oil pan back on using just a few bolts, then let it sit overnight. Next morning use a tire pressure gauge to note coolant system pressure & if low then checkout oil pan for any coolant.
The overnight tells whether or not coolant is leaking, but it may or may not tell you from where it’s leaking. Sometimes coolant droplets might stay on problem sleeve rim or engine block next to it??? If not that lucky, then gotta watch for exact leak locations.

Edited by AC7060IL - 10 hours 9 minutes ago at 8:48pm

While that can work, why not rent a system pressure tester from the local auto parts store. A whole lot easier. Here I can buy it, use it, then return for full refund