7060 426 rebuild or swap
Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=206414
Printed Date: 25 Apr 2025 at 7:04am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: 7060 426 rebuild or swap
Posted By: MT7050
Subject: 7060 426 rebuild or swap
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 7:02pm
Hello, I know this topic has been discussed before but here is my particular case. I have 1975 7060 that has a spun rod bearing (see pics). I got through auction as a "parts tractor" so I don't know anything about the rest of the tractor. Is there any way to get tractor running without embarking on major overhaul first to evaluate other tractor operations/soundness?
Tractor seems intact in most other ways - roosa master IP was taken off and I don't believe tractor timing was done b4 hand, antifreeze and other fluids look ok, residual oil in pan black with metal fragments but no water/antifreeze, tranny and rear end fluids look ok, hour meter shows 1336...
If I did overhaul, it seems that past posts have indicated crank removal, magnaflux crank and other parts, maybe could turn rod journal and add undersized bearing, new rod/rod cap bolts, etc. can this be done in-frame?
Other option is to swap a 670I combine engine into tractor. which as Dr Allis has pointed out isn't necessarily simple but others have done numerous times.
looking forward to the wealth of experience on this forum and it is greatly appreciated! hope pictures come through.
Thx
Tim
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Replies:
Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 7:58pm
Maybe try pulling oil pan, valve cover, & oil filters. Cut open filters to unravel paper medium. Then closely inspect pan, top of head, & filter medium for amount & size of metal that was possibly circulating thru engine? That may give a better indication of severity?
While pan is off, a simple coolant pressure test may indicate any piston sleeve’s o-ring &/or sleeve cavitation/leaking of coolant?
Then go from what is realized/discovered. Good luck.
If it were mine & coolant pressure tested ok, rotating assembly rolled over, & oil filters caught much of metal fragments, I’d consider rolling in some good used bearings on both crank & rods. Or at least roll-out/clean ALL old good bearings & reinstall them only replacing poor one with good used?Smooth up any grooved crank / rod journals. Maybe an AC forum member might have a few good used bearings?? If so, then Purge oil galleries & clean/check oil pump functionality. Then time injection pump. Remove injectors & do a pressure check. Reinstall injectors, reassembly pan & fill with some good used oil & filters. Hook up 2 batteries & give it a spin? Leave valve cover off to monitor valve action, push rods, oil delivery, etc. Then if that all checks out, do a compression test. If everything check out, give it some fuel & see IF &/or how it runs??
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Posted By: im4racin
Date Posted: 23 Apr 2025 at 9:10pm
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Emery cloth the cheap out of the journal and check size. Get undersized bearing to get close. Reassemble and run at idle only. Check condition of rest of tractor. If good decide on rebuild or transplant. This isn’t a fix but a way of determining rest of tractor condition.
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Posted By: MT7050
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2025 at 5:59pm
Thanks AC7060IL for in depth msg. the residual oil in bottom of pan had metal fragments of course. didn't have time when I took pictures to examine closely. the former owner had dropped pan an inspected and the rod bearings that were removed (i guess) were in bucket with pan bolts when I got it. rod bearings were in pretty tough shape (I will try to post additional pics) and as you can see the journal and the rod arm bearing surface bit rough but I would have thought they would look worse. I assume the bearings softer than the journals/rod surfaces? bearings looked worse for wear for sure.
I will definitely do the inspections you suggest but I am out of country until July - would like to get into it right now but will have to wait. One of the oil filters was gone when I bought tractor (don't know how long it was off) I screwed on a extra filter I had just to seal out dirt..
would I just put a little air pressure in radiator for O-ring/pitting test?
also as im4racing and you suggest will emery cloth smooth up rod journal on crank? can't really get to rod arm surface much but I guess this is just to investigate tractor ops and see where to ultimately go after that.
I am not a mechanic by any means just grew up with equipment and wrenched on it enough to be dangerous I suppose. lol
will have a lot more questions before this is done - thx for the help.
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Posted By: AC7060IL
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2025 at 8:34pm
Usually engine coolant systems are low pressured ~ 5-10 psi?? So if you have a helper using an air compressor charged blow gun accompanied with a rag stuffed into radiator cap hole, then you could easily get a LITTLE pressure into engine coolant system. DON’t GET CRAZY on pressure. While helper has coolant pressurized, crawl under engine’s opened crankcase with a flashlight & watch for any coolant leaks. OR if you’re DIY & no helper, lay some flat dry corrugated cardboard under engine, apply air pressure, & wait 15-20 minutes?? to view for any possible coolant drips/drops onto dry cardboard.
For a longer pressure duration & if you have access to a good sealing radiator cap, then maybe sacrifice cap by drilling a hole into center of radiator cap to insert an inexpensive tubeless wheel valve stem into it. Install valve stem cap & air charge it to whichever psi you think you need( check psi with tire pressure gauge), place an empty clean oil pan back on using just a few bolts, then let it sit overnight. Next morning use a tire pressure gauge to note coolant system pressure & if low then checkout oil pan for any coolant.
The overnight tells whether or not coolant is leaking, but it may or may not tell you from where it’s leaking. Sometimes coolant droplets might stay on problem sleeve rim or engine block next to it??? If not that lucky, then gotta watch for exact leak locations.
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Posted By: SteveM C/IL
Date Posted: 24 Apr 2025 at 10:33pm
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I have connected regulator to overflow hose and pressured system through radiator cap. You can't go above cap pressure or it blows out but that's ok. With pan off overnight you'll know if o-ring is leaking and be able to see from where.
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Posted By: plummerscarin
Date Posted: 25 Apr 2025 at 6:27am
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While that can work, why not rent a system pressure tester from the local auto parts store. A whole lot easier. Here I can buy it, use it, then return for full refund
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