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190 XT Gas tractor issue

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6wheeler View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6wheeler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 190 XT Gas tractor issue
    Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 3:00pm
Hi all. I got my remanufactured carburetor back and it is finally warm enough outside to put it on. I put it on and set the idle air screw to the factory setting 1 1/2 turns. The problem I am having is, I believe a fuel pressure issue. When I crank it, the fuel just lightly spurts out of the fuel line. I think the pump may be bad. I am not getting gas in the crankcase. So, I wonder if it is just a bad diaphragm. Is there a kit for them? Or, would it be better to just put on an electric pump. I believe the system only makes about 2 to 4 psi. But, how many gpm pump would you all suggest? The tractor fires off nicely with a little sniff of happy juice. Just seems like it is not getting enough fuel. There is fuel in the carb. I just don't think it is enough. Any help is appreciated.  Thanks.   Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Northern Hoser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 3:20pm
Hey Pat, if there is fuel in the carburetor bowl then there is enough fuel for starting. a fuel pump issue will show up if the fuel level in the bowl is allowed to drop enough that it causes a lean condition, usually when its using more fuel under load. 

If it's pumping at all while cranking over I'd say that's normal, but I don't know about the 190xt specifically. 

If in needs canned heat to light off it's probably another issue 

Matt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tbran Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 4:36pm
A manifold/carb gasket leak is a possibility. IF not then the mixture needs to be richer probably - turn the idle bleed screw in and try again. If you can't crank the unit there is not enough vacuum or  an idle circuit is stopped up. If it has no leaks - use ether while idling to spray around manifold to detect leaks - send the carb back.   
When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimWenigOH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Feb 2025 at 5:59pm
Is it the Holley or a Zenith?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2025 at 6:56am
If the fuel pump moves any fuel at all, it should start and run. At wide open throttle sitting still (no load) the engine will consume 2.88 GPH or .048 GPM. So if the fuel pump provides 6+ OUNCES a minute, that is enough to keep it running. Now, when hooked to a plow, the fuel burn rate goes up to 8.03 GPH or .134 GPM ( 17 ounces per minute at full load).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6wheeler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2025 at 9:27am
It is a Zenith Carburetor. 13303A to be specific. I know I have a good seal. When I spray starting fluid around the base it doesn't make any difference. It seems like it is not putting any gas up into the intake at all. It doesn't matter how much I screw in or out the screw. I am starting to think it could be the carburetor has an issue. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2025 at 9:49am
Choke is fully closed tight when you try and start it ?? Throttle must be open some, not a dead slow idle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2025 at 11:15am
'Then and Now Automotive' in Weymouth, MA has fuel pump kits for them. I believe their part number is CK-42-20, but they can look it up and check. They're very helpful and can cross-reference and build a pump kit for pretty much anything.

Before I rebuilt the original mechanical fuel pump for my 180 gasser (same engine and fuel pump as the gasser 190) I used an electric pump. If you go that route you want as low a psi as possible: 2-4 psi max, and even then you'd better have a good needle valve & seat and they can sometimes be overpowered. And I suspect you're right that the original pump diaphragm is bad and letting gas enter the crankcase - same problem I had.

If I were you, I'd rebuild the original with a kit from Then and Now. 


Edited by DanielW - 25 Feb 2025 at 11:29am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2025 at 11:32am
I just re-read your original post and see you said you're NOT getting gas in the crankcase. My apologies. I thought you were. It's still probably not a bad idea to rebuild the pump. The rubber of those old diaphragms doesn't hold up to modern fuel very well: The pump on my 180 and a couple diaphragms from a few gas Fordsons I had all turned spongy and permeable with new gas - they all started leaking gas into the crankcase at some point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6wheeler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Feb 2025 at 3:50pm
I have an update. I hooked and electric pump up directly to the carb. with a line into a gas can. And, it lit right off. So, I took my air hose and blew the lines out back into the tank. When I looked into the tank afterwards, There were alot of rust chunks that went back into the tank. When I looked into the tank before that? It looked very clean in the bottom. The only thing in there was a piece of the cap gasket. But, it was nowhere near the sediment bowl port. The rust chunks must have came from the line. Or, were trapped in the sediment bowl inlet. For information, you can only see the left side or second sediment bowl inlet through the cap. Not the right hand side one. But, after that? The pump still wouldn't pick up fuel. I hooked the electric fuel pump up to the fuel line to the carb. I let it draw fuel through the line through the factory pump until fuel came. The line was dribbling steady. So, I cranked the engine and, voila! We have fuel, a steady stream. I hooked it back up to the carb. and, it runs fine. So now? The next step will be pulling the sediment bowls off and putting screens in the inlets to keep the rubbish out. It looks like that will be a job getting under the tank. But, I will make it work. Thanks alot for all of the advice. Just glad I got it running.  Thanks   Pat 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6wheeler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 1:32pm
Ok. So,for some reason it ran out of fuel again after sitting. I have spoken to the folks that sell the kits. I sent them everything they requested for a kit. 2 weeks later no response after several emails. I need the tractor. So. Does anyone have an electric pump you would recommend for this tractor? I will convert it. I just need to know an idea of what to use. Thanks Pat
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 1:44pm
Just a 12 volt gasoline electric fuel pump that can pump at least 10 GPH (gallons per hour). It can pump 100 gallons an hr and that's ok. Just has to be 10 GPH minimum. I'd say 2 psi is enough. 5 psi might be plenty.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 3:00pm
I don't like to push much over 5 PSI into a carburetor
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6wheeler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 3:55pm
I aa couple of Edelbrock 2-3.5 psi, 30 gph pumps that I used to get it running. Would one of these be adequate? And, not overpower the needle? At 30 gph it should pump enough fuel to keep it running under load I think. Am I close? Or will this over fuel? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 2025 at 4:57pm
The 30 GPH is what it is CAPABLE of. The 3.5 psi will not overpower the needle/seat. It will work just fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6wheeler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 12:30am
Thank you. That is what I thought. 30 gph is what it would only  run unrestricted. 2-3.5 average is what I was looking for. Maybe the pump repair place will respond someday. But, until? I will put the pump on tomorrow. Downed trees to move.....Thanks for all you help all.    Pat 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 8:10am
The rust in your tank is the root problem and won't go away on  its own.My solution with all old gas tractors that has worked well for me is to take the sediment bowl off replace it with a 3/8 nipple then run screw on a T to the nipple.Out the side of the T I put on a nipple that fits the gas line hose then on the bottom I out another nipple with a brass valve in the end.Most of the rust that comes out the tank into the 3/8 nipple will fall directly into the lower nipple then the valve can be opened to let the rust out.On the line going to the carb or in your case the fuel pump I install a clear inline filter so I can see what has come out of the tank into the fuel line.This keeps anything out of the pump and/or carb.If the gas quits flowing thru the filter its either stopped up with crud or the gas had water in it and swell the filter shut.Replaceing the filter is simple and costs next to nothing.BTW I ran a  D19 for years that orginally had a fuel pump with no fuel pump just have to keep in mind not to let the gas get below half a tank.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 8:49am
Originally posted by Gary Burnett Gary Burnett wrote:

The rust in your tank is the root problem and won't go away on  its own.My solution with all old gas tractors that has worked well for me is to take the sediment bowl off replace it with a 3/8 nipple then run screw on a T to the nipple.Out the side of the T I put on a nipple that fits the gas line hose then on the bottom I out another nipple with a brass valve in the end.Most of the rust that comes out the tank into the 3/8 nipple will fall directly into the lower nipple then the valve can be opened to let the rust out.On the line going to the carb or in your case the fuel pump I install a clear inline filter so I can see what has come out of the tank into the fuel line.This keeps anything out of the pump and/or carb.If the gas quits flowing thru the filter its either stopped up with crud or the gas had water in it and swell the filter shut.Replaceing the filter is simple and costs next to nothing.BTW I ran a  D19 for years that orginally had a fuel pump with no fuel pump just have to keep in mind not to let the gas get below half a tank.


Just get the tank cleaned out.  Problem solved.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 8:52am
Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

Originally posted by Gary Burnett Gary Burnett wrote:

The rust in your tank is the root problem and won't go away on  its own.My solution with all old gas tractors that has worked well for me is to take the sediment bowl off replace it with a 3/8 nipple then run screw on a T to the nipple.Out the side of the T I put on a nipple that fits the gas line hose then on the bottom I out another nipple with a brass valve in the end.Most of the rust that comes out the tank into the 3/8 nipple will fall directly into the lower nipple then the valve can be opened to let the rust out.On the line going to the carb or in your case the fuel pump I install a clear inline filter so I can see what has come out of the tank into the fuel line.This keeps anything out of the pump and/or carb.If the gas quits flowing thru the filter its either stopped up with crud or the gas had water in it and swell the filter shut.Replaceing the filter is simple and costs next to nothing.BTW I ran a  D19 for years that orginally had a fuel pump with no fuel pump just have to keep in mind not to let the gas get below half a tank.


Just get the tank cleaned out.  Problem solved.

Probably the best solution but then again it won't stop things from being in the new gas or other things that seem to be able to get in a tank.Or keep the tank from rusting in the future.Its surprising the things I have seen show up in fuel filters.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 9:05am
Originally posted by Gary Burnett Gary Burnett wrote:

Originally posted by DSeries4 DSeries4 wrote:

Originally posted by Gary Burnett Gary Burnett wrote:

The rust in your tank is the root problem and won't go away on  its own.My solution with all old gas tractors that has worked well for me is to take the sediment bowl off replace it with a 3/8 nipple then run screw on a T to the nipple.Out the side of the T I put on a nipple that fits the gas line hose then on the bottom I out another nipple with a brass valve in the end.Most of the rust that comes out the tank into the 3/8 nipple will fall directly into the lower nipple then the valve can be opened to let the rust out.On the line going to the carb or in your case the fuel pump I install a clear inline filter so I can see what has come out of the tank into the fuel line.This keeps anything out of the pump and/or carb.If the gas quits flowing thru the filter its either stopped up with crud or the gas had water in it and swell the filter shut.Replaceing the filter is simple and costs next to nothing.BTW I ran a  D19 for years that orginally had a fuel pump with no fuel pump just have to keep in mind not to let the gas get below half a tank.


Just get the tank cleaned out.  Problem solved.

Probably the best solution but then again it won't stop things from being in the new gas or other things that seem to be able to get in a tank.Or keep the tank from rusting in the future.Its surprising the things I have seen show up in fuel filters.


After having the tank cleaned, have it lined.  It will prevent any rust from forming.  I do it to all of my tractors and use fresh fuel.    Sediment bowls are as clean as day 1, some are going on 10 years with no issues.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HudCo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 11:49am
sounds to me the tank needs to be cleaned or the problem will never go away,    you can blow back the line every day the stuff in the tank will still find its way to the inlet and plug it off
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ekjdm14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2025 at 4:21pm
My solution to dirty tank thus far, has been to use a short chunk of copper line pushed into the the inlet of the sediment bowl/petcock & cut to about an inch higher than the original inlet.  This allows drawing fuel from a little higher up & the heavier chunks of rubbish just stay in the bottom of the tank.

Quick & dirty fix but does the job. A clear inline filter (Wix 33003 or similar) is also a good safety net
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