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hunter321 
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 Topic: Allis chalmers wd45 head gasket
Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 12:56pm |
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I am replacing the head gasket on my wd45 and was wondering how difficult it will be.
I'm planning on leaving everything bolted to the head and only replacing the head gasket and valve cover gasket
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 1:12pm |
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I'm not planning on replacing the head bolts
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 1:52pm |
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I think you will have to remove the rocker arm assembly to gain access to some of the head bolts. Not much of a job at all. You'll have to readjust the valves when you're done anyway.
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 2:06pm |
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How hard is it to readjust the valves
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 3:36pm |
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My head gasket has been bad for a while and I'm just now realizing.
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dr p
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 4:21pm |
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I was able to readjust the valves and i am a moron. Just ask my dog
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 4:57pm |
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What do I have to do to readjust the valves
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dr p
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:02pm |
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Its like any any valve adjustment. Clearance guide and a little patience. Instructions in the owners manual
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:05pm |
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In all honesty, if you organize the push rods by placing them in a piece of cardboard with 8 holes in it, and place them back EXACTLY where they were before you took it apart, the engine will run fine. This is because the valve lash really doesn't change just by replacing the head gasket. A new gasket or an old gasket are the SAME thickness. This isn't the best scenario, but someone who doesn't know how to adjust valves, this is the best way. The million dollar question would be WHY do you think the head gasket it bad and in need of replacement ??
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:12pm |
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My oil is full of coolant and water
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WF owner
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:21pm |
Before you even think about removing the head, remove the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system (radiator). This will allow you to see where the coolant is coming from that is contaminating your oil.
The 201 or 226 engines are not known for head gasket problems. I doubt the head gasket is your problem. It is more likely an O ring on one of the sleeves, a hole in a sleeve or possibly a cracked head.
Edited by WF owner - 26 Oct 2024 at 5:23pm
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:28pm |
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It runs perfectly fine with the water oil mix.
This tractor sat outside uncovered for 15 years
Edited by hunter321 - 26 Oct 2024 at 5:29pm
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:30pm |
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How would I pressurize the radiator
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:36pm |
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I know the head is not cracked
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:46pm |
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No, you don't. Are there any frost plugs under the valve cover that are rusted out or pushed up out of place ?? My money is that or a cracked/split BLOCK.
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WF owner
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:49pm |
You should be able to rent a pressurizing kit from a local auto parts store or buy an inexpensive one from Harbor Freight.
If you are sure the head is not cracked, I assume you had it off. Did you use any sealant on the head gasket when reinstalling? Have you retorqued the head?
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 5:56pm |
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It didn't look like any frost plugs are rusted or out
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 6:25pm |
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Before we do any major tests we are going to put used engine oil in and put everything back together and add head gasket sealer to see what that does
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 6:33pm |
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" My oil is full of COOLANT and WATER." This is a confusing statement. Water and antifreeze (coolant) actually mix together. They do not stay separated. WATER comes from rain water from the exhaust system not being adequately covered or sealed up when sitting outdoors. COOLANT (anti-freeze) comes from the engines cooling system having an internal leak.....rusted out freeze plugs in the cylinder head, a leaking head gasket (usually not likely) leaking sleeve Orings (again not normally likely) and a cracked block on the bottom, which is very likely. Remove the oil pan. Make sure the cooling system is full and pressure test the cooling system by pumping it up to no more than 10 psi and wait and see where the COOLANT starts dripping from. It may take a day or more to see any drips if it is a slow/small leak.
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hunter321
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Posted: 26 Oct 2024 at 7:23pm |
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To check for holes we are going to fill the radiator with water and leave the oil plug out and if it drains the radiator we are going to wait and have a shop work on it
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ekjdm14
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 6:26am |
You need to re-read and DIGEST what DrAllis is saying here. Simply leaving water in the rad won't show up the leak unless it's really, REALLY, bad. It needs a pressure test in order to show it up & even then it can take a couple of days to see anything.
Firstly though, if it's plain water in the pan NOT coolant (and assuming the rad has coolant) then I'd be tempted to replace the oil & run it a while to see if it's not just rainwater from standing outside.
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WF owner
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 7:22am |
 hunter321 wrote:
It didn't look like any frost plugs are rusted or out |
I have (often) seen the outside where they looked fine, but the inside was badly corroded and they were leaking.
Pressurizing the cooling system is quite easy and it will show where the leak is coming from. Right now, you are guessing where it MIGHT be coming from.
I don't mean to be rude, but it seems like you are asking for advice but planning to ignore it. There is a lot of experience on this forum. If you aren't going to listen to the advice we are giving, you are wasting our (and your) time.
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hunter321
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 3:47pm |
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Is there any way to pressurize the radiator without the special tool. I can't get one right now.
I'm not trying to waste your time, I was hoping that I would not have to buy all new gaskets again. The oil has antifreeze in it.
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WF owner
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 3:59pm |
Sometimes, local auto parts stores (like NAPA, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, etc. ) will "loan" specialty tools like a pressurizing kit. You pay for the kit, use it and return it for a full refund. In my opinion, that will be (by far) your best first step. It's pretty hard to fix something when you aren't sure what the problem is.
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hunter321
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 4:10pm |
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I will try to get a pressure tester. How will I know what the problem is, where will it leak for each possiblity. How would I know if it is a head gasket
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WF owner
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 4:14pm |
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Remove the oil pan, top off the coolant and pressurize the system. Put a clean piece of cardboard under the tractor. Find out where the coolant is dripping (maybe very slightly). Then take a good light and try to trace where the coolant is coming from.
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 9:49pm |
Do you have anyone in the area that would coach you a bit? Many people are willing to help if you are willing to learn. Maybe trade some labour for some coaching. 
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DrAllis
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 10:08pm |
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I just get the feeling we aren't getting a fully accurate story. The first post says " I'm replacing the head gasket and wonder how difficult it will be". The next post says "I'm not replacing any head bolts". As I read along, I'm beginning to think the head gasket has already been replaced and there is still a problem. Maybe not. Maybe the explanation is just poorly written. It would have been nice to know if this is a tractor that has been sitting for 15 years out in the wide open spaces without a juice can on the muffler and they just now have gotten it running, OR it's been running for quite some time and in the past had been sitting outside for 15 years, which really doesn't make any difference now. And the "I know the head isn't cracked" statement. How do you KNOW that?? unless you already had the head removed and magnafluxed for cracks ??? by a machine shop???
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hunter321
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 10:17pm |
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Sorry for all the confusion
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DrAllis
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Posted: 27 Oct 2024 at 10:18pm |
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Yeah, but you haven't cleared anything up either. How EXACTLY does the story go ???
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