AC 6080 starter issues

All 6000 series needs a relay at the starter. Too much voltage drop through all the safety switches. MACK

I have always used the old Delco like the early D17 use for starter. The one with three terminals, not the four. MACK

Bump to top, anyone ever do this on a 6000 series? With the relay

Here is a Standard Motor Products 12 solenoid relay used on some GMs. 300 amp, non- continuous rating.

HTH

Oh man did i use something different...I will post a picture tomorrow of mine.

Amos did you use one of the 4 pin, 30 amp relays like many vehicles use now? I have seen those, lawn tractor solenoids, and Ford type solenoids used as well as the one I posted. Any will work, the main thing is to add something that will reduce voltage drop and pass more current to the starter solenoid than the ignition switch and safety switches handle well over time.

Jim that is exactly what I used, took it out of a dodge K car that had been in an accident in a wreckers yard just to see if it would resolve the starting issue

The terminals on those are numbered and most have a diagram made right on the plastic shell. You can do a search for that Dorman number and find a number of images on line. Several manufacturers make these and they plug into boards in vehicles, so the terminals are standard. I would post one for you, but can't on this device. Likely an operator issue, not the device.

30 amp is not big enough. Will work but will not last. MACK

You would want to use a regular high amp solenoid like the one in Jim's pic. Standard Motor Products or Cole Hersee are top quality pieces. I carry both in stock and use them on my 12V conversion Starter motors. A Ford style would work fine also. That code 1 relay is way to light for that type of application. Won't take the continuous duty needed to crank over the engine. Our 1501-08E solenoid would fit the bill there. Even has an override button on top to the solenoid for bumping the engine over...

Steve@B&B

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife

Currently my 6080 has occasional no starts, but in my case there is zero starter spin. I wired a test bulb on the starter solenoid and found no light at all when twisting the key. So, I figure one of my safety switches is making intermittent contact because when it does crank the test bulb lights right up. At first I did suspect a low voltage issue because hooking up the battery charger to the batteries would make it spin, but the light told me it was getting zero volts with out the charger. Apparently the boosted voltage from the charger is forcing the faulty connection in the safety switch to make contact.

That being said I know I did have a low voltage issue before I put new batteries and cables in. If it should come back again I would like to know more abut this added solenoid. I am having a tough time trying to draw a mental wiring diagram to see how this is being added on top of the existing starter solenoid. It's also been two years since I looked at the manual's wiring chart so I forget how power is currently routed from the key, through all the safety switches to the solenoid on board the starter. Is the additional solenoid completely by-passing all the safety switches and going straight from the key to the new solenoid?

Michael (WI),

Here is a simple sketch for you to look at. All the existing starting circuit wiring remains, with all the safeties. You need to be sure those are all working properly, adding a relay solenoid won't repair a bad component.

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