Print Page | Close Window

AC 6080 starter issues

Printed From: Unofficial Allis
Category: Allis Chalmers
Forum Name: Farm Equipment
Forum Description: everything about Allis-Chalmers farm equipment
URL: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=159243
Printed Date: 25 Aug 2025 at 3:35am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: AC 6080 starter issues
Posted By: DougG
Subject: AC 6080 starter issues
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 6:28pm
Neighbor has a 6080 that the starter engages , spins then kicks out and just spins the Bendix , he put a new selinoid on it same thing, I put a newly rebuilt starter on it, same thing ,, could it be the switch dropping draw or amps ?   



Replies:
Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2019 at 8:55pm
All 6000 series needs a relay at the starter. Too much voltage drop through all the safety switches.       MACK






Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2019 at 4:17am
Thanks Mack what kind of relay would you recommend?


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2019 at 7:25am
I have always used the old Delco like the early D17 use for starter. The one with three terminals, not the four.       MACK


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2019 at 8:08am
Any part numbers ? Been looking on Agco partrs and cant find it,


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2019 at 9:44am
Bump to top, anyone ever do this on a 6000 series? With the relay


Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2019 at 1:52pm
Did mine 30 years ago when the voltage was dropping and causing the occasional no starter engaging issue.  Same relay on there and over 10,000 hrs later no issues other than the electrical tape (didn't think it was going to solve the issue at the time, temporary repair) that originally held the relay in place has rotted off and been replaced with a pull tie...


Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2019 at 2:46pm
Here is a Standard Motor Products 12 solenoid relay used on some GMs. 300 amp, non- continuous rating.

HTH


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2019 at 2:57pm
Thank you Jim ! Just what I was looking for!


Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2019 at 7:59pm
Oh man did i use something different...I will post a picture tomorrow of mine.


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 24 Mar 2019 at 8:18pm
Thanks Amos ill be looking forward to seeing the pics


Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 6:56am
Amos did you use one of the 4 pin, 30 amp relays like many vehicles use now?   I have seen those, lawn tractor solenoids, and Ford type solenoids used as well as the one I posted. Any will work, the main thing is to add something that will reduce voltage drop and pass more current to the starter solenoid than the ignition switch and safety switches handle well over time.



Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 7:20am
Originally posted by DougG DougG wrote:

Bump to top, anyone ever do this on a 6000 series? With the relay

Just did Dad's 6080 last fall. Used a Ford style solenoid. 100% fix. I will take a pic and try to get it posted in the near future, Mike.


Posted By: Amos
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 10:18am
Jim that is exactly what I used, took it out of a dodge K car that had been in an accident in a wreckers yard just to see if it would resolve the starting issue


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 6:27pm
Thanks for the info guys,, any pics of the wiring done to make this work or explain which color goes where on this Dorman relay, thanks again


Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 6:55pm
The terminals on those are numbered and most have a diagram made right on the plastic shell. You can do a search for that Dorman number and find a number of images on line. Several manufacturers make these and they plug into boards in vehicles, so the terminals are standard. I would post one for you, but can't on this device. Likely an operator issue, not the device.


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 7:36pm
Gottcha Jim, thanks for the info, ill figure it out!


Posted By: MACK
Date Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 9:26pm
30 amp is not big enough. Will work but will not last.    MACK


Posted By: IBWD MIke
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 2:03pm
Here's a couple of pics of my install. Was kind of hard to get a good shot around the loader bracket.


Posted By: Steve in NJ
Date Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 6:15pm
You would want to use a regular high amp solenoid like the one in Jim's pic. Standard Motor Products or Cole Hersee are top quality pieces. I carry both in stock and use them on my 12V conversion Starter motors. A Ford style would work fine also. That code 1 relay is way to light for that type of application. Won't take the continuous duty needed to crank over the engine. Our 1501-08E solenoid would fit the bill there. Even has an override button on top to the solenoid for bumping the engine over...
Steve@B&B


-------------
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife


Posted By: DougG
Date Posted: 29 Mar 2019 at 6:34pm
Thanks guys for all the info !


Posted By: Michael (WI)
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 12:34pm
Currently my 6080 has occasional no starts, but in my case there is zero starter spin.  I wired a test bulb on the starter solenoid and found no light at all when twisting the key.  So, I figure one of my safety switches is making intermittent contact because when it does crank the test bulb lights right up.  At first I did suspect a low voltage issue because hooking up the battery charger to the batteries would make it spin, but the light told me it was getting zero volts with out the charger.  Apparently the boosted voltage from the charger is forcing the faulty connection in the safety switch to make contact.
 
That being said I know I did have a low voltage issue before I put new batteries and cables in.  If it should come back again I would like to know more abut this added solenoid.  I am having a tough time trying to draw a mental wiring diagram to see how this is being added on top of the existing starter solenoid.  It's also been two years since I looked at the manual's wiring chart so I forget how power is currently routed from the key, through all the safety switches to the solenoid on board the starter.  Is the additional solenoid completely by-passing all the safety switches and going straight from the key to the new solenoid?


Posted By: exSW
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 12:44pm
You're overthinking it. Do a little research on how a relay works. The relay transfers main starting power from the battery through itself to the draw(starter).This is why you have to use a heavy duty relay. It carrys all the current. The wire that excites the starter at the starter itself will be the wire that trips the relay. Find a 70's Ford or Dodge pickup that has the relay/solenoid mounted on the inner fender near the battery. Look at how it's configured.


Posted By: Jim.ME
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2019 at 3:58pm
Michael (WI),

Here is a simple sketch for you to look at. All the existing starting circuit wiring remains, with all the safeties. You need to be sure those are all working properly, adding a relay solenoid won't repair a bad component.




Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.10 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2017 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net