CA Brake Mystery - UPDATE #5

I've had to pull the linings out of my CA a couple times and clean/deglaze them. The were filled with rust and dust, no oil.   Cleaned them with brake cleaner and a wire brush, then lightly scuffed them with a coarse emery cloth, then cleaned again before reinstalling. I cleaned the drums as well. Brakes were always fine after. Got to do it again before spring.

Put the platform back on and see if it stoping full movement of the brake lever. On dads C when we put it together th slots in the cover wouldn't let the levers engage far enough to actuact the brake. We cut the slots longer instead of finding out what we did. It has worked that way for 40 years.

Ditto on checking if the pan is interfering. Happened to me.

Stopping the wheel with the tractor stationary and jacked up is one thing whereas stopping 2000 lbs of momentum is another.

Brake drums were so wore out from planting on our d17 that new shoes were almost out of adjustment as soon as installed replaced the drums adjustments were all the wAy out to keep from dragging might be time for drums on yours

Edited by bradley6874 - 26 Feb 2019 at 3:29pm

Got into the left side today. I now know why that brake wasn't working very well! 

Edited by Dave(inMA) - 03 Mar 2019 at 6:00pm

Nice idea, Dennis. Thanks.

Steve - I think you are right! I'll check tomorrow (once we clear away the latest snow storm). That would be a happy result.  Now, why didn't I think of that?!!?

Edited by Dave(inMA) - 03 Mar 2019 at 5:57pm

Jay, this bolt (and its locking nut) are perpendicular to the pinion shaft - and the final drive is off the tractor. But nice thinking outside the box!

Dave I just did one a couple weeks ago. Did use a socket and extension through the hole. Slow steady even pressure and it came out. I soaked it with penetrating oil first. Since it is impossible to remove the drum without damaging it even with the long puller(trust me I tried) I used a cutoff wheel and carefully cut it. Had to finagle it around as you don’t have a lot of room. DIDNT cut all the way through then spun it and cut almost through again opposite of first cut. I cut all the way through until there was a paper thickness left. Broke off outer drum as I went. Then used a chisel to break it off. Might not be the correct way but that’s how I did it without damaging anything else. Wasn’t as bad as I thought. I wish you luck on it. Ray

Shop manual might help:

http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf

Gerald J.

Jay I did try to use a long puller but was only a 3 rod. It didn’t even budge it only started cracking the drum where it was attached. The drum was I think a original from 1955. I read somewhere on here it wouldn’t come out that way. They said don’t use heat as it would ruin seals. I did use some heat with map gas and tried to soak it too. That’s when I broke it as was suggested on here from a previous post. Dick the ca is the same I just don’t have a press setup at work like that. Just a small one. I seen your setup on that other post I think and wished I had that. I did never-seize everything when I put it back together including those big pins. People think these brakes are hard to do and I agree. The ford 800 series with the heat collar seals are about the same pain if you ask me. The have to be drilled out and broken to be removed also when doing a complete brake and seal job. But that’s how the book and dealers tell you to do it. Ray

Wow,

I have won the battle! Old drum is off, new one on.